Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club | am i pushing my deli too hard?

Im far from knowing anything.
But looking back at posts using searches etc etc show
you how to set your turbo or 'dial it in' as per conversation.
No big mystery. Waste Gate actuator and a boost gauge.
12 psi is the tops.
It's an easy gauge to put in and let you know how the
turbo is doing.
J

Awesome...thanks for the tips!

On the other hand, if you drill pre-turbo, you run the risk of having metal shavings drop into the turbo, which isn't a good thing. It's also much easier to mount post-turbo.

Sure, post-turbo will give a lower temp reading, but I don't think the exact number is the important part, it is seeing how temp it going up/down that matters.

Take the EGR out, drill a plate, insert plate with probe. No shavings, accurate readings.

You coming up with simple, sensible ideas again? You are really making the rest of us look bad.

At 3:30pm Calgary time I will going to see a mechanic regarding drilling and probing. I have done all the other work involved myself.
What and where and how to your comment? I prefer this location vs post turbo.

That's also what I did. Just fashioned a plate out of some approx. 3/8 plate, using the EGR plate as a template. Drilled hole in middle for probe to go through. I think the probe threads matched that of an air-tool connector, so I cut to length and welded an male-to-male air fitting to the plate over the hole, angled it a little to make it fit the space better vs. having it sticking out perpendicular. Works like a charm. That part of the job was fun...the tedious part was threading the probe's wire down, around & then up through the floor. Didn't keep track it but think it was a 3-4hr job including EGR removal and mounting the gauge. R&R the driver's seat & cover eats a bit of time too. I've had it since day 1 and am very glad I took the advice herein and did it. Kinda wish we saw more (have there been any?) land here from Japan with them already installed. Makes one wonder how they managed without cooking more engines over there? After all, it's a mountainous country isn't it? Or maybe they did cook them? Do they ever come as a factory option - if not on the L300s then the 400s? That would make too much sense (instead we get a leaky tilt-o-meter ) I'm amazed how rapidly the temps. can vary - good that you can react and drop them quickly, bad that they can get out of hand just about as quickly. Personally I don't think a turbo-timer is necessary. Depends, I guess, on the sort of trips you typically do. Around town I rarely see the temps climb beyond 1000F and they drop down quickly and low very soon after stopping and idling. Unless maybe you've been on a long hill and suddenly pulled over, it's not a long wait for them to drop to a safe temp. to shut down. I find the surest way to drop them if they climb to danger zone is to just back-off the throttle. Basically reduce boost (another handy complement to the pyro is a boost gauge). Going for a higher RPM (by gearing down, I've a 5spd) doesn't seem to work too well for me.

I regularly push my van relatively hard... it's actually hard not to push hard... with over 2 tons and 85 rather hesitant horsepower, you gotta giv'em the spurs every now and then...

I've done the coke and basically shut the overdrive off at the onset of the hill and then just cruise until it flattens out or goes downhill... my goal is to maintain a minimum speed of around 60km/h which sometimes requires the van to kick into 2nd and rev at up to 3'400.... (I never do this for long, though)....

I have also managed to get the Van up to 125km/h (on the GPS... the speedo shows in excess of 130 km/h) - but again, I never do this for longer than a minute or two.... The real killer is the fuel mileage which goes very very bad when trying to stay above 100km/h on even roads.

I will install a pyro-gauge just to have some peace of mind - but I really think that if the cooling system is in good shape (something I, admittedly had to learn the hard way), all the fluids are correct and topped up and one avoids doing the steepest inclines on the hottest days of the year and otherwise isn't particularly abusive to their ride, one shouldn't have to worry about stuff too much...

Apparently, as my Van is built in 1993 but is a 1994 model (different steering wheel - almost looks like it has an airbag) it also has a watercooled turbo (there's apparently some kind of coolant hook-up on the cylinder head that also feeds the turbo or something?) ...

Is the chance of driving your watercooled turbo 'red-hot' slimmer then?

Cheers,
Chris

Greetings to all Delica pushers!

This is my first posting. I am a Delica 4WD-driver from Munich, Germany. Here this car seems to have almost completely disappeared from the roads.

For me it feels quite similar: The question whether I am overstraining the poor 2.5-Litre Diesel-engine accompanies me every time when I push my poor, old ('92 model) Deli. For example while crossing the alps on the way to the adriatic sea in the summer holidays. Uphill on the highway I need to run full throttle just to keep up to the heavy lorries on the r/h lane. With temperatures around 30 degrees Celsius certainly not an easy task for the Engine. A glowing turbocharger, however, is completely normal under these circumstances. I might only seize in case you stop the engine while it still glows. When you give the engine the chance to supply the poor, hot thing with cooling oil from the sump for some minutes it will stay healty. Mine does so since 260000 kilometres (knock on wood).
I always try to comfort myself with the thought that she same engine survives much more strain in its 99, 110 and 133 horsepower-versions as mounted in newer Shogun/Montero/Pajero models. My strong suspicion is that many roasted engines and chargers are victims of worn out nozzles and/or incorrect timing and/or other adjustment problems occuring after years of use.

I wish the Diesel-specialists among You would agree to that. Otherwise I'll have to continue driving around with this diesquieting feeling in my guts ... and, of course, will soon have a pyro gauge installed ...

Kind regards,

floP

I don't know about those sorts of things, but many roasted engines are the result of blocked or improperly functioning cooling systems. Keep your radiator, water pump, and associated hoses and fluids clean and I suspect that everything should last for many many years... (speaking as the person who didn't follow this advice! )

i was just in at ccautos yesterday. i told glen id like to get a pyro gauge. he pursed his lips and shook his head "its not necessary"
if one's water pump, rad, thermostat, cap, belts, and hoses are good, he says, then everything should be fine. even if the egt is high, itll cool itself fast enough as air flows through and around the motor. he compared to a marine application, where the motor is enclosed from the air and not allowed to cool properly.
ill take his advise, and save my money for something somewhat frivolous: a snorkle!

now i just got back from a 5000km trip to indio, ca. long days driving 110km/h, some of it in the desert. the van was loaded with gear and WVO, and accelerated slowly, but maintained speed just fine. i was nervous the whole time that my egt might be too high. its threads like this one that make me a bit paranoid. i always let the thing cool for at least 60 seconds before turning the key off. so far so good!

If you've just been cruising at speed on the highway and pull off and stop, the EGT will usually be between 800 and 1200 deg F, and can take up to 5 minutes of idling to get down to 500, which is the max temp I let mine be before shutting off the engine.

Around town, or coming home, it only usually takes seconds or a minute to cool down that far.

Basically, 60 seconds won't make the slightest difference, either it was already cool enough, or it isn't anywhere long enough to help.

Hello delipushers!

... and thanks, after oil, for mentioning the snorkel! Besides of letting the engine breathe cleaner (sometimes also drier) air from above, it might have a positive side effect: It supplies the engine with outside air which usually is cooler than the atmosphere in the engine bay. This way it might help reducing combustion temperatures at least a little.
The ultimate completion would be an intercooler as mounted to all mitsu 2.5-litre diesel engines putting out more than the 87 hp of our vans. I think the designing engineers in Japan knew what they did, when they decided to add this device.
I had all my cooling system done - and the condition of all parts led me to the conclusion the previous owner has done so not too long ago ... But my diesel mechanic advised me to have the injectors checked. Tired springs and needle seats could reduce their actuation pressure which means they inject earlier (and also a little more) with the consequence of significantly higher combustion temperatures and unnecessary engine load. In the worst case swirl chambers or even pistons can melt. At least on the long run it will crack the head.
After learning that blown engines are not a fate I rather spend the money for a thorough injector/timing check before doing anything else.

Greetings from a cold (0°) but sunny Munich

floP (and please tell me in case my engrish gives you a headache)

Same with seatbelts, not necessary but I still wear mine. Seriously though, we don't always have perfectly tuned up van and the pyro will quickly tell you when something's wrong. I also realized after installing mine that my EGT were often higher than I expected and I did change my driving habits accordingly. I believe that by doing so my engine will be running great for much longer, cheap insurance. Time will tell...

i see, i once drove a van with a TT and it counted down only 60 seconds, i guess thats why i thought 60 seconds was enough. perhaps on the big drives, ill just leave it idling while parked for rests and other stops, and carry a second key so nobody drives it away...



fair enough delicat...