Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

The 4D56 is a notoriously heavy breather, especially if it wasn't serviced properly before you got it (oil changes every 5000km!). With the EGR removed the oil won't do any harm, unless it gets so bad the engine starts to run on its own oil and can't be stopped. That's unlikely unless something goes...

Kind of hard to tell, but from the way it hangs around it looks like white smoke to me. At 7pm it was, what, 30C/85F? Steam wouldn't hang around like that at those temperatures. Unless it's *really* steaming, in which case driving it a bit isn't going to do any more damage to a cracked head/blown ga...

Does the white smoke eventually go away as the engine gets hotter? Apologies for the next question, it's going to sound patronising: You're sure it's smoke and not steam? Smoke drifts away and becomes a foggy haze as it disperses, steam just vanishes and leaves the air clear. If it's smoke, I'd have...

Do you also have the battery warning light on the dashboard? (Does it come on before you start the engine, and go off once the engine is running?) It sounds like the twin belts that run the alternator are loose or broken. The alternator has a vacuum pump on the back that powers the brake pedal boost...

Wow, so the new Beck Arnley slider pins are corroding after only a year and a half? That sounds like crappy quality. Interesting that it's only happening on one side. How did you find out that they were corroding? Random precautionary inspection, or did one side seize up? If it seized up, maybe chec...

MB618227 top pin (plain pin). CAD$11 from Amayama.com MB618227.jpg MB618228 lower pin (with rubber tip) CAD$10 MB618228.jpg The lower pin is supplied without the rubber. To get the rubber you need rebuild kit MB857840 (superseded by 4605B977 CAD$30) MB857840.jpg To rebuild both sides you'd need 2 of...

It shouldn't cause any harm, but it'll wear the belt out quicker, and failure of the belt means loss of brake booster and power steering. Is there no local parts store that can sell you a single belt?

(Thread moved to L300 Technical because L300).

It'll be interesting to see how they go.

Just for future reference, MB886389 is the original part number. CAD$230 each from Amayama. Ouch.

If you get stuck you could risk an Aliexpress compressor, CAD$120. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MR17565 ... 21720.html)

No idea if they're any good, but they're cheap.

For replacing the timing belts, I'd print out the relevant sections of the workshop manual (dis/reassembly steps, torque settings) and mark off each step as you complete it. Refer to Tojo's thread for guidance where the workshop manual is too vague. Take photos as you go. Have a bunch of jars or bag...

Sounds like you've fixed it, but for curiosity did you check the resistance of your old cutoff solenoid? It should be 48-60 ohms. If it's less (or open circuit) then the coil's failed.

The upper solenoid with the green boot causes the injection timing to advance, to help with cold starts and running.

That's a photo I ganked from an Ebay seller, it's the Aussie 20C coin (you know the one, you've seen dozens of them I'm sure) for size reference. Apparently in Australia everyone measures things in "coins" and rulers haven't been invented.

Evan at Delica Works International ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/delicaworks/ ) can send you a complete new lock set (Ignition lock plus 5x door locks) for about US$150. I recently fitted one and the quality is great. Comes with two keys. The brand is Yau Young. s-l1600.jpg You might have to sli...

Don't forget to swap over your AC pulley!

The side cover (balance shaft cover) by the injection pump will distort and leak if it's overtightened. I chased leaks from that cover for a while, in the end I just bought a new cover, seal, bolts, and bolt seals- and the leak was cured! When you fitted the alloy halfmoon seal, did you use grey hig...