Possible oil leak locations...

White Mule · Post by **White Mule** » Tue May 27, 2014 5:50 am

I am about to play, "let's find the leak". You may have played it before too. I will start a list of "what is known to me" locations. You may add to my list if you wish.

1) Valve cover: there is oil located at the "half moon", this would explain oil found at the oil pan and area, concentrated on the right side of the engine.

2) Turbo: this is a known area, however I am spotting oil above the turbo.

I will be removing the drivers seat to observe from a better vantage point. I will remove the flat pan below the engine for a better vantage point. Your suggestions as to other possible locations would be much appreciated.

TieMyShoe · Post by **TieMyShoe** » Tue May 27, 2014 12:30 pm

pull you intake pipe and check inside the turbo. A bad turbo leak can throw oil everywhere in cludibg out the egr. Not to mention it can cause a run away (you don't want to experience a runaway... It scary.)

Also check the turbo feed line.

Post by **FalcoColumbarius** » Tue May 27, 2014 4:57 pm

Not a lot of things drip onto the turbo. From your description ~ I'm going to put a dime on the breather hose, which, while relieving pressure from the head does let oil through into the intake. Maybe there is a split in the hose and there's oil travelling along the intake pipe? Also, there could be a leak from the turbo end of the intake pipe where it connects to the intake hose that feeds the turbo, which is just above the turbo, however you would also be experiencing a loss of power if that were the case.

Another place where there could be a leak around the turbo is where the oil goes into the turbo, which is a hollow bolt on top of the turbo. It's torque spec is 12 ft lbs. When I put mine on I torqued it too dear, which is how I really got to know how that bolt works. It is really easy to tear and if you think 12 ft lbs is heavy, let me enlighten you ~ the RCMP side arm trigger is set to 13 ft lbs. So I'm also going to put a dime on the oil intake bolt.

Then there's the oil return gasket, but that is on the underside of the turbo, 'though it's known for leaking.

This is the long shot: You spilled coffee in the cockpit and it leaked through where the hatch meets the driver's seat deck, dripped onto the turbo and you mistook it for oil... grins.

Falco.

White Mule · Post by **White Mule** » Wed May 28, 2014 5:06 am

Thanks. When our Vancouver weather changes to Calgary weather, I will continue probing. I will post my findings. (Thought just before hitting submit: Isn't Calgary weather a bad thing?) Submit

White Mule · Post by **White Mule** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 6:02 am

Well I found one. Not sure yet if there are anymore.

This gasket was pooched.

Fixed with gasket maker. Will it hold? Time will tell.

TieMyShoe · Post by **TieMyShoe** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 8:03 am

there should not be oil running through there. If there is you likely have a leaking turbo seal.

White Mule · Post by **White Mule** » Mon Jun 02, 2014 11:33 am

TieMyShoe wrote:there should not be oil running through there. If there is you likely have a leaking turbo seal.

There is only one "o" ring inside the turbo from what I can tell in wiki. Replacing this ring should be the ticket?

If I'm going back into the turbo, I may as well install the EGR blanking plates as well.

Rattlenbang · Post by **Rattlenbang** » Thu Jun 05, 2014 3:20 am

A lot more complicated than that. A whole bunch of components function to keep oil inside the turbo. At the speeds a turbo spins, an oil ring wouldn't cut it. Time to pop over to ebay and pick yourself up a turbo rebuild kit.

White Mule · Post by **White Mule** » Sat Jun 07, 2014 10:59 am

I found oil where the 18mm oil bolt is. I don't think the bolt was aligned correctly.

TieMyShoe · Post by **TieMyShoe** » Sat Jun 07, 2014 12:57 pm

the feed line should be 17mm and is a banjo fitting. This means the bolt is hollow and is sealed by two copper washers. Do not over tighten that bolt. if the washers are leaking replace them. They are only about a buck at Lordco, do not use sealant or tape on a banjo fitting.

I still urge you to check the turbo for leaks, if there is oil inside the compressor wheel area of the turbo you have a leak which MUST be addressed. looking at your photos there is oil sitting on the top of the turbo outlet, all around the bottom of the couplers and around the air ports. If the intake pipe is also soaked in oil then this could be from valve cover breather and or the turbo. if the intake pipe is clear then it turbo. To isolate the turbo you need to install a catch can between the vc and intake. a simple pop bottle will do for testing purposes.

In case you are not familiar with the term "runaway diesel" it is when a diesel engine runs off its own oil system. when this happens the engine will essentially go wide open throttle and there is no way to shut it off (save for taking the intake off and trying to starve it of air.. however by then the engine has normally gone into nuclear melt down)

White Mule · Post by **White Mule** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 11:03 am

After replacing the valve cover gasket and aligning the banjo bolt, I am happy to see a completely dry engine!

TieMyShoe · Post by **TieMyShoe** » Sat Jun 14, 2014 2:09 pm

good to hear!

thedjjack · Post by **thedjjack** » Sun Jun 15, 2014 9:07 am

x10000000 on check for signs of a future runaway diesel.... youtube runaway diesel... make sure no oil going through the turbo...

punkrawker · Post by **punkrawker** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 12:20 pm

from my research, it is easier and cheaper to just buy a new turbo off of ebay and bolt it in. you will need the casting number stamped on the original turbo. apparently turbo shops start at 500 for rebuilding, new turbo is about the same and....IT IS BRAND SPANKING NEW!!!! unbolt old defective turbo, bolt in new turbo and go have fun.

Lapprentis · Post by **Lapprentis** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 2:10 pm

In most leaking problems is there a risk of fire due to burning oil ?
Lapprentis [ANGRY FACE]

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