dash Temp gauge not functioning

north54 · Post by **north54** » Tue Sep 12, 2017 7:40 pm

Well it did function once a couple years from what I recall. Went up to the 1/4 mark on an Alberta hill. Since then I've never seen it move.

I've checked the 2 pin sensor at the block for a bad connection and the connectors are fine. I've also removed the sensor and done the hot water test. It functions as well using a volt meter testing fine.

Any other ideas? Fuse?

Yes I know I need to put in an EGT.... Just racking my brain as to why I never get a temperature reading.

Thanks!

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:11 pm

The hot water test- that's the one in the workshop manual, right? Heating the temperature sender and testing the resistance? If so, and the resistance is correct, then the sender is probably ok.

Next step: There's two wires connected to the temperature sender. Find the yellow with red stripe wire, connect it to earth (against the head should do) and turn the ignition on without starting the engine. The temperature gauge should move fairly rapidly towards hot. Turn the ignition off before the needle hits H.

If the needle moves, your wiring is fine and it's the sender that's faulty.

If the needle doesn't move, you either have
-a broken wire between the gauge and the sender (the wiring loom sometimes rubs through where it crosses over the engine bay at the back)
-a broken gauge unit (diagnosing that one's a bit trickier- you'll need to follow the traces on the circuit board from the yellow/red stripe wire to the gauge, and test the gauge for resistance rather than being open circuit.)

http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=17645

north54 · Post by **north54** » Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:05 pm

Thanks I'll try your suggestions Growler. I think it may be attributed to this connector being all corroded as well. I feel like it is for the temp gauge, could be wrong though! One wire was actually apart from corrosion but after splicing it together still isn't registering.

: photo-4.JPG (515.31 KiB) Viewed 6731 times

north54 · Post by **north54** » Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:16 pm

north54 wrote:Thanks I'll try your suggestions Growler. I think it may be attributed to this connector being all corroded as well. I feel like it is for the temp gauge, could be wrong though! One wire was actually apart from corrosion but after splicing it together still isn't registering.

photo-4.JPG

SCRATCH THAT, I can learn a lot from reading a schematic!. Thats not the right connector. I'll check the one above the injection pump.

north54 · Post by **north54** » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:09 pm

BAH its my sender, meter works with the ground wire hooked to the connector. So much for the hot water test being trustworthy. Thanks for the advice!

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:57 pm

Yeah, from memory the workshop manual only shows how to test the ECU side of the sender, the gauge side can fail independently. Replacing a sender is *so* much easier than tracing all the wires.

sealica · Post by **sealica** » Mon Feb 03, 2020 5:42 pm

Growlerbearnz wrote: ↑Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:11 pm Next step: There's two wires connected to the temperature sender. Find the yellow with red stripe wire, connect it to earth (against the head should do) and turn the ignition on without starting the engine. The temperature gauge should move fairly rapidly towards hot. Turn the ignition off before the needle hits H.

Are there any consequences if I allowed the needle to hit H during this test?

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Feb 03, 2020 9:30 pm

Probably not. If it goes past H and hits its travel and then stays there for a minute there's a chance the little coil could burn out, but just for a second? shouldn't be a problem.