Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I installed the 2" lift kit that Jesse offers, new shocks, and new torsion bars. The install went peachy keen until I took "Truck Norris" off the jack stands.
The front end was lower. How could this be. I crawled back under and cranked the torsion bars all the way up and it was still too low. I re-indexed the torsion bars and still too low.
I noticed the front shocks were completely collapsed.
The front shocks (Pro Comp ES9000 915510) are recommended on his lift kit post http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.ph ... 95#p138695.
Is it the shocks?
Did I screw something up?
If it is the shocks I'll order the Rancho RS999188 that Growler did the write up on. I should have ordered these first. The magical tool I have that channels the power of Growler was telling me this, but I didn't listen

Are these the upgraded 24mm torsion bars, or just new standard ones?

Either way, it looks like the torsion bars aren't indexed correctly yet.

Jack the front up until the upper rebound buffers (missing in your photo) are fully compressed and the front wheels are hanging off the ground.
Remove the torsion bar adjuster from the splines and reinstall it as low as it can go, while still being able to reinstall the adjustment nut.
Torsion bar tension is the only thing that sets the ride height. The pressure in the shocks doesn't do hardly anything.

Does your channeller need new batteries?

Growlerbearnz wrote:Are these the upgraded 24mm torsion bars, or just new standard ones?

New standard torsion bars.

Growlerbearnz wrote:Either way, it looks like the torsion bars aren't indexed correctly yet.

Jack the front up until the upper rebound buffers (missing in your photo) are fully compressed and the front wheels are hanging off the ground.
Remove the torsion bar adjuster from the splines and reinstall it as low as it can go, while still being able to reinstall the adjustment nut.

Are "upper rebound buffers" Mini speak for bump stops on the Deli? If so I removed them. Should I put them back on?

Growlerbearnz wrote:Torsion bar tension is the only thing that sets the ride height. The pressure in the shocks doesn't do hardly anything.

Does your channeller need new batteries?

Batteries were the first thing I checked!

I forgot to include this picture. Notice the upper bushing. I had to use 2 vice grips plus my own kung fu grip to get that nut on.

javabob wrote: Are "upper rebound buffers" Mini speak for bump stops on the Deli? If so I removed them. Should I put them back on?

LOL! It's totally Mini-speak, now that I think about it. They're the top bump stops, but they control droop not bump. You usually need them in place- they prevent the suspension dropping so far it rips the shock absorber out, not to mention the damage that could be done to the top arm from hitting their metal mounting bracket directly.

Measure the stroke length of the shocks. They should be 15.5" long. Also the part # will be stamped on the side of the shock body. It is possible you have the wrong shock (too short) in which case the travel is maxed out to whatever the length is.

If it's the correct length, then it's an indexing torsion bar correction that's required.

I'll put the bump stop back in.
There's one thing I can't wrap my head around:
The torsion bars are brand new and the markings are facing the rear. Left and right sides are correct. It seems to me that it wouldn't matter what spline they are on. I started the adjuster as low as it could go. If I take it off, turn the torsion bar, and put the adjuster back on, it shouldn't make a difference right? What am I missing?

jessef wrote:Measure the stroke length of the shocks. They should be 15.5" long. Also the part # will be stamped on the side of the shock body. It is possible you have the wrong shock (too short) in which case the travel is maxed out to whatever the length is.

Good point! I totally ignored the bit about the new shocks. I would undo the two lower shock mounting bolts so the shock is completely out of the equation. (Actually I'd undo the top nut, but since yours was a pain to install the lower bolts are probably easier). If your ride height returns to normal, it was the shocks being too short and restricting your suspension travel.

javabob wrote:If I take it off, turn the torsion bar, and put the adjuster back on, it shouldn't make a difference right? What am I missing?

You're not turning the whole torsion bar. You want to leave the torsion bar in place and attached to the top arm, just slide the adjuster off the torsion bar's rear splines, rotate the adjuster down a bit, and slide it back onto the torsion bar. When you push up on the adjuster to remove any slack in the system the threaded rod should *just* poke out the end of the halfmoon pivot nut thingy, just enough threads exposed so you can start the adjustment nut.

That's my plan then.
Free up the shocks with the bottom bolts.
Measure the stroke length / check number on the shock itself.
I'll redo the torsion bar adjustment again. I've done it twice just as you described but maybe the third times a charm. Plus I need to work on my Popeye forearms.
I'm waiting til tomorrow though, the Vikings are on now!

Thank you Growler and Jessef, we'll see what tomorrow brings!

Hi JB
I don't often offer my opinion on L300s but here goes.
The biggest problem is the 2" lift. Max 1 1/2 inch on the delica front end is best. These deli front ends were never engineered for 2 inch lifts with the stock upper, lower control arms and spindles. You will be forever replacing tie rods and ball joints if you persist with 2". Caster and camber adjustments will cause you max tire wear and potential roll over problems. Shocks won't last any time at all.

But!! All that being said "it will look nice." and if you're as blind as I was you won't care.

have fun
MD