Charging woes

[Firesong]

My return trip from Northern Alberta to Saskatoon gave me the following
symptoms. Hopefully you can help me shed some light on it.

During the day driving no noticable symptoms (didn't turn it off much)
As it got darker I used my driving lights only, noticed that the light switch
made my stereo turn off then on quick. Thought there might
be a short or something for me to work out. However as it got darker out I
put on my main lights and that's when things got interesting.
I noticed my lights all getting a bit dimmer (internal lighting, external lights
etc.), then my stereo quit (It's a high end one and I think it detected low
power from the battery and turned itself off as well as the amp)
Then the lights got dimmer and dimmer and ...

Obviously not charging. Pulled over and checked with a flashlight (without
turning off the motor) the belts (all intact), and while doing this had
the lights turned off. I didn't want to pull any fuses in case the motor
shut off. I was pretty sure that the diesel is a typical old style that would
keep running without battery power.

After having a quick look, jumped back in and turned the lights back on.
They were brighter. So... the alternator is charging at the very least..
super slow.

I made the last 40 km in the dark by pulling over, turning off all the lights
(in a safe spot) then waiting. Then going like a bat out of h.. then repeat.
Once in the city I took the back ways home where I could stop and go.

I have a 2 battery setup, the alternator is charging albeit very slowly.
The batteries are newer Energizers (identical) which have been doing
great until this.

I have a charger doing a slow charge since I don't want the batteries
to remain drained.

Should I simply take it into a battery shop and they can tell me if the alternator
is putting out enough juice or does this sound like something else?

Firesong

[dfnder]

I would hazzard a guess and say your alternator is borked but you can test it.

With the vehicle off use a voltmeter to check the voltage of the battery, it should be 12.5 ish. If it is less than 12 you may have plates that have failed inside the battery but that seems unlikely. Start the vehicle and test the voltage accross the battery, the normal range I think is between 13.5 and 14.5 and your alternator, if undercharging, will be lower than that.

Oh yeah, make sure all your connections are clean and tight!

best of luck and way to make it home!

[Firesong]

What was weird was that no alternator / electrical light came on.
Not a feature ?

I did get home prior to posting the first email.
It was a stop and go thing.

:)
FS

[after oil]

also could be the diodes inthe alteranator sucking your batteries dry

[thedjjack]

I have the same problem randomly. Sometimes when I flash the lights driving I loose the radio.

Once when I flash I lost the engine......IE not old school diesel...it looses 12V and turns off. (maybe 12volt to keep fuel valve open??)

I was thinking poor connection on the dual batteries. Under start arcs the negative so bad connection and then not full 12 volt was my guess. I shake the terminals and it goes away for a bit.

next time I am in the shop I will clean it all up and tighten my alternator belts (they are new and loose).

Keep me posted if you figure it out.

Cheers
David

[TardisDeli]

Hi Firesong, I vote your alternator is the culprit. When my alternator went bad, there was NO idiot light to alert me. What I did have is ALL the idiot lights along the bottom of the instrument panel glowing on and off rythmically (eery fade in and fade out, maybe 30 seconds cycle). Mardy Amazing Auto says this is THE typical symptom (thanks Mardy for answering your cell phone at 11:20pm to diagnose). I did not have headlight problems with that event, but my battery was fully charged (27 series deep cycle), and home was a 15 minute drive on the highway, no stereo or heater on. I had not yet had any starting problems when then eery fade in/out occurred, that was my first symptom, I doubt I would have noticed the idiot lights fade in /out in the daytime.

No easy definitive test to prove a problem alternator (what... we moonwalk but can't put a tester on my alternator), but I got it rewound (that bolt is very awkward to remove, Edwin did it from underneath the deli, need a long extension socket and great dexterity), problem solved.

I've had some headlight issues (fortunately it's the only problem my deli has), and seen others when they visit Jay for help, so I say your symptoms don't match any I have seen: broken part in control switch in steering column; rusted ancient wire behind headlight; corroded connector; bad ground from old undersized japanese wire touching metal body; grote canadian DRL dead; blown fuse in fuse panel at knee; blown headlight bulb; burnt wire in the fusible link, blown relay etc --- those all give NO light (except the loose headlight bulb which works if you thump lens).

Let us know if we can help more. Christine.

[Jaz]

First thing - check your belt, as it may be too loose and underpowering the alternator.

Second (like others have said) would be the brushes within the alternator. When they get worn, they don't touch the copper as much anymore and don't generate as much power. Rebuild these and there's a good chance it'll come back to life.

Have a look at the alternator. If there's lots of crap on it (black residue or similar) then chances are that the brushes are worn out. If it's still looking pretty fresh, then chances are its something else.

Good luck!

[Artacoma]

If you have a trailer light harness check it's condition, a melted connecter at my hitch gave me CRAZY lights for a few weeks until I tracked it down

[Firesong]

Took off the alternator last night.
Took roughly an hour
I think that it's going to take an extra 1/2 hour to put it back in.

At the alternator shop the guy goes, hmm haven't seen one
of those in a while. From a diesel hey? What vehicle is it from.

It should be done he said by the end of the day.
It was also a 75amp and I asked if he could bump that up a bit.

He said he would look at it and if it could be (some could) he would.

Update ya all later.

FS

[mararmeisto]

It was also a 75amp and I asked if he could bump that up a bit.

These alternators are a lot more tightly wrapped than the Delco or other NA offerings, so I doubt he could have it re-wound for a higher output.

[dennis_lambert]

Hi there,I am also experencing charging gremlins I cant seem to figure out on my 94 L300.
I pulled the Alternator as I suspected it was at fault and had it Re-built the shop said it had some blown diodes.$195 later I installed it and also got rid of the duel bat set up and installed a single bat as One crap bat will ruin everything.Thought I had at fixed.It is still not charging!!!
I am wondering if oil is leaking from the turbo and causing problems..
More to follow...

[Firesong]

I picked up my alternator this morning.
Pleasantly surprised. Full rebuild and it only cost $135 which included tax.
And boy was it shiny clean.
I asked what it was rated at and he said it surprised him.
Without redoing some circuitry and stuff (I don't know what) he decided
against it since it would have cost another $85.00
He said that it's spec'd at 110 amp and even when hot it should still
put out 90 amp. The mitsu sticker on the side said 75amp on it.

Anyway, couldn't install it today.. had some major thunderstorms passing
through and I detest laying in water.
Maybe tomorrow.

Firesong

[Firesong]

Boy did putting it back in suck.
Hardest part was getting the adjustment (tension) pieces back
together and tightened up properly.
Darn.
Anyway It's together again.

And.. I noticed my clutch has a rattle to it.
The rattle disappears when the clutch is pressed.

Ideas?

FS

[Jaz]

If it's like Subaru's, sounds like it could be the throwout bearing, but check other possible issues first... didn't leave a nut on top of the transmission did you?

[Firesong]

The rattle was there before the alternator fix.
We did the clutch earlier and the throwout bearing had to be
reused since the new one didn't fit.
The clutch was something we did while doing the flywheel.

Shucks anyway.
FS