C'mon Jesse, psilosin looks for a reason to get dirty, makes him look manly.jfarsang wrote:you can access the 17mm bolt from the wheel well. There is an opening there specifically to access the alternator. Lift up the rubber flap.
Easier with the tire off if you don't want to get dirty.
Bigger problem that expected...
- Fishtank
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
thats a lot of problems in a short time especially electrical. was this a insurance flood vehicle sold at the auctions? harmonic balancers failing are sometimes a good indication of high distance vehicles. the dealer should come to the party a fair bit too fix so many parts even if not covered by the warranty.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
lol. Yeah yesterday i did get pretty dirty wet and cold from lying on the ground...which started as snow and melted to a nice sloppy mud. I was probably looking super manly...like Fabio!
This secret access panel sounds promising.
This secret access panel sounds promising.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
Secret panel is so secret I can't see it. Only rubber in the front wheel well is at the rear end which is ~2' back of the alternator, and just starts to rip at the slightest attempt to lift it up. Out of time again for this month.
Pisses me off the most that this bottom bolt shouldn't even need loosening. Alternator is supposed to pivot on the the bottom bolt as you adjust the top tensioner. Mardy's godamn mechanic tightened it too much.
Pisses me off the most that this bottom bolt shouldn't even need loosening. Alternator is supposed to pivot on the the bottom bolt as you adjust the top tensioner. Mardy's godamn mechanic tightened it too much.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
That's exactly what I thought.psilosin wrote: Alternator is supposed to pivot on the the bottom bolt as you adjust the top tensioner.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
So I think that access panel Jesse mentioned is an L300 thing only, so next person do not think you are crazy if you cannot locate it.
Maybe it can best be accessed from the top...remove airbox, catch-can, hoses, and maybe wastegate then should have a clear path. Just seems un-naturally difficult to access so I still think I am missing something simpler.
Surprised that Diver is the only one that seems to have any experience with this. His method would work with better tools but the slop alone in my ratchet is greater than the available room so I can't even do it '1 click at a time'. Maybe I should just buy a better ratchet. Just thinking aloud...ok back to work on teh house...
Maybe it can best be accessed from the top...remove airbox, catch-can, hoses, and maybe wastegate then should have a clear path. Just seems un-naturally difficult to access so I still think I am missing something simpler.
Surprised that Diver is the only one that seems to have any experience with this. His method would work with better tools but the slop alone in my ratchet is greater than the available room so I can't even do it '1 click at a time'. Maybe I should just buy a better ratchet. Just thinking aloud...ok back to work on teh house...
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
I replaced the alternator a year ago and I took out the air box and the hose to air box to get access and had no further problems. I think I put a pipe on the ratchet for more leverage.
Here is the order of operations:
Chris
Here is the order of operations:
Chris
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
Not that I am at this stage yet but I just got to thinking in my head...on an automatic trans vehicle...whats the best way to tighten back up the crank pulley bolt? Not like a manual where you can just put it in gear and yank the handbrake to lock the engine from rotating.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
Hi psilosin,
Firstly, if you're still having trouble with your alternator nut and your ratchet has too much play, maybe try putting a cut-down spanner horizontally on the nut and get some sort of bar/piece of wood/whatever onto it from underneath that you can whack with a hammer to get it loose.
As far as the pulley is concerned, most importantly make sure that you don't under any circumstances rotate the engine anti-clockwise at any point (like if you're undoing the nut). This can result in breaking the timing chain tensioner/guide. There are two holes in the front of the pulley that a special tool fits into to hold it while you undo/tighten the nut. If you weld you can make one (basically a bar with a 'C' shape at the end with two pins attached) or the method I use is to put a socket onto the pulley bolt with a long breaker bar resting against the right-hand (as you look at it) chassis then give the ignition key a quick flick to get it undone. To tighten up again I put two suitably sized bolts in the holes and wedge them with a crowbar (which has a bend to get around the socket). Best to use a new bolt (they've been known to stretch/deform and fall out causing massive problems) and get it 190nm tight.
You might also want to consider painting a couple of lines across the front of your new pulley, that's what I did and that's how I was able to notice it was on it's way out before any damage occured.
HTH, Jason.
Firstly, if you're still having trouble with your alternator nut and your ratchet has too much play, maybe try putting a cut-down spanner horizontally on the nut and get some sort of bar/piece of wood/whatever onto it from underneath that you can whack with a hammer to get it loose.
As far as the pulley is concerned, most importantly make sure that you don't under any circumstances rotate the engine anti-clockwise at any point (like if you're undoing the nut). This can result in breaking the timing chain tensioner/guide. There are two holes in the front of the pulley that a special tool fits into to hold it while you undo/tighten the nut. If you weld you can make one (basically a bar with a 'C' shape at the end with two pins attached) or the method I use is to put a socket onto the pulley bolt with a long breaker bar resting against the right-hand (as you look at it) chassis then give the ignition key a quick flick to get it undone. To tighten up again I put two suitably sized bolts in the holes and wedge them with a crowbar (which has a bend to get around the socket). Best to use a new bolt (they've been known to stretch/deform and fall out causing massive problems) and get it 190nm tight.
You might also want to consider painting a couple of lines across the front of your new pulley, that's what I did and that's how I was able to notice it was on it's way out before any damage occured.
HTH, Jason.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
Thanks again. That is another well written and very helpful post with a number of good tips in it.
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
Had the day off work yesterday so got back to it...removed airbox and catchcan and hit the alternator from the top...easy. Got the old pulley off no problem....after loosening the bolt it slid off quite easily with a gentle wiggle wiggle.
Now for the next challenge. The new pulley I cannot get on more than a couple mm before it will not budge (yes keyway is lined up). I tried putting a little oil on the inner circumference of the pulley but that didn't help. More tips?
Now for the next challenge. The new pulley I cannot get on more than a couple mm before it will not budge (yes keyway is lined up). I tried putting a little oil on the inner circumference of the pulley but that didn't help. More tips?
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
it should go on firmly and straight as an arrow
If it pushes on at even the slightest angle, you won't get it past a few mm's
If it pushes on at even the slightest angle, you won't get it past a few mm's
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Re: Bigger problem that expected...
My new pulley was tight due to being painted in the inside. Took it back to metal with some wet or dry and doing the bolt up did the rest...