L300 footwell leaks: the complete guide.

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L300 footwell leaks: the complete guide.

Post by Growlerbearnz » Thu Dec 30, 2010 9:02 pm

Having chased pesky leaks for about a year I have finally banished the wet dog smell from the Delica. No more damp carpets! Woohoo!

The forums are a wealth of information, but, having experienced every single possible cause* of water ingress into the footwell, I though I should put them all in one post, in order of severity:

Front panel seams- Remove the front quarter panels above the headlamps, strip out the old, crusty sealant in the major seam there, paint, and replace sealant with new flexible body sealant. Fixed 80% of the issue on my Deli.

Windscreen seal- I removed the screen, cleaned up the surface rust on the windscreen flange, and replaced the screen using a bead of non-hardening windscreen sealant. It's important to apply the sealant only between the two soft flaps on the windscreen seal- the seal is designed to drain water away, if you clog up the other channels you might make the leaks/rust worse. (The screen aperture can rust through, which is nasty to fix). While you have the screen out, pay attention to the front corners of the gutter- the sealant there can crack too. Another 10% down.
seals.jpg (42.31 KiB) Viewed 943 times
Antenna mount- the antenna plinth can crack if it's overtightened, which distorts the rubber seal and lets water in. Remove the screws, lift the antenna away from the pillar, clean the pillar, antenna plinth, and seal, and reinstall with a smear of urethane sealant taking care not to overtighten the screws.

Gutters- The roof of my Deli seems to have had a few low clearance parking building incidents, and the seam where the roof is spot welded to the gutter had opened up. Water leaking through the gutter seam came down the inside of the A-pillar and emerged mysteriously behind the washer reservoir and accelerator pedals- a very frustrating leak to track down. Scraping the old sealant out of the gutters (remove the plastic trim first!), repainting the seam, and sealing with Sikaflex adhesive seam sealer fixed this delightful leak.

Gutters at rear- on the roof at the back are a couple of plastic panels, when re-sealing the gutters dont forget to remove the panels (2 screws, 1 clip) and seal the seams under there. I think this is where water gets into the jack/tool/rear washer reservoir compartments, though that seems to be the one place I didn't have an issue.

Screen washer jets- They're out on big stalks, and get used as handles when the kids are climbing up the front bullbar. But just the one time. Grrr. The washer stalks felt a bit loose and, lo and behold, water was coming inside. I actually removed the dashboard to get at these, straightened the wee metal clips that hold them in, and sealed them to the front panel with Sikaflex adhesive seam sealer. While I was there:

Wiper spindles- remove the wiper arms (lift plastic cover, undo 12mm nut, rock wiper arm on spindle until the taper comes free), lift off the rubber dust cover, and check the big retaining nut is tight. Or for extra points use a little adhesive seam sealer between the front panel and the spindle before tightening.

Plastic grille clips- the saga continues. The grey plastic trim that runs between the headlamps is held in by 10 (I think?) plastic clips, a bit like the door lining cards. These are sealed with thin foam washers, and the first time this panel is removed all the foam washers disintegrate. Either replace the foam washers or seal each one with a smear of (wait for it...) Sikaflex adhesive seam sealer.

Air intake box seal-
IntakeDuct.JPG (65.22 KiB) Viewed 3776 times
Finally! I suspect this one was my own fault, having removed the dashboard and half the aircon system, I think I had damaged the foam seal where the plastic air intake seals to the back of the passenger headlamp housing. A tiny dribble of water from here happened only when driving in heavy rain, but a hefty squirt of seam sealer and bolting it back on nice and tight has fixed it just lovely. (Three nuts pictured, I can't recall if there was a fourth).

Hope my frustration helps someone else!

Update: Konadog points out that the aircon drain tube can easily be kicked loose, which fills the passenger footwell with water VERY quickly! Be sure to check this first before dismantling your Deli... See the picture in the post below (its the rubber tube that comes from the aircon box and *should* exit to outside through a wee grommet in the floor). Thanks!

*Future me here: Oh, the hubris!
Last edited by Growlerbearnz on Fri Dec 31, 2010 7:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Re: L300 footwell leaks: the complete guide.

Post by nxski » Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:39 pm

Excellent thread here taking the problems and combining them into one easy to flip through package!

I had fixed my leaks for a while but they started up again a couple days ago. I thought at first that because of the heavy rain the water had somehow found a way in. Turns out it's my windshield washer fluid. I had topped it up a couple days before noticing the problem. Not sure if I can get a replacement from somewhere easily!? or if I can try to seal it but will try to post a thread on that if / when I get it sorted out. I sealed the top corners of the windshield, the quarter panels and the cracks at the ends of the gutters and that works if the washer fluid is empty.
Something to consider before pulling the windshield as that would be my last resort... 8-)
Live the life you love, love the life you live...

Had: 1991 Mitsubishi Delica L300 SuperExceed, heavily modified (totalled by a drunk driver)
Have: 2011 Acura CSX manual, lightly modified
Want: Mitsubishi Pajero Evo


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Re: L300 footwell leaks: the complete guide.

Post by konadog » Fri Dec 31, 2010 6:47 pm

Great idea - buuut, as I have posted twice before here, there is one thing to check first when yer feet are wet - an easy fix that had me gooping up the windscreen and taking hte headlamps off before I stumbled on this problem. If the tube int he picture gets dislodged water will pour into the passenger side foot well...
floor leak.jpg
floor leak.jpg (45.28 KiB) Viewed 5302 times
Happy Day!

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Re: L300 footwell leaks: the complete guide.

Post by Growlerbearnz » Fri Dec 31, 2010 7:41 pm

LOL ok so maybe I didn't have *every* possible leak! That actually makes me feel better :-)

Thanks for the tip- have updated the first post.
Nothing says "poor workmanship" more than wrinkles in the duct tape.

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Re: L300 footwell leaks: the complete guide.

Post by fexlboi » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:52 pm

Nice and very comprehensive write up!

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Wet floors? You might want to check this...

Post by north54 » Sun Oct 16, 2016 6:53 pm

Admin: this post added to this thread for future reference. Original post is here: http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17887

Since getting the van several years ago I seem to have been plagued by wet floors. Since there are many forum topics on the subject I assume several others have had this issue. I tried a lot of sealing solutions only to have soggy drivers side carpets throughout Vancouver's winter.

Only this year I've found that the water was coming from below! After doing more maintenance this year and having the drivers seat out several times I found that my floor pan was rusted through in several places. A seat mount bolt also had a porous hole letting water spray come up into the carpeting thus saturating it.

Heres the horror:

Seat mount rusted through:
photo 1 (2).JPG
photo 1 (2).JPG (125.33 KiB) Viewed 3831 times
Some floor pan swiss cheese:
photo 2 (2).JPG
photo 2 (2).JPG (150.2 KiB) Viewed 3831 times
After grinding it down I applied some fibreglass saturated POR15 patches. Quick fix until I can properly MIG weld a patch in. But dry floors ever since. Just my 2 cents so maybe check underneath if you're racking your brain about a wet floor. Cheers


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