MY transmission too!!!

[monnomania]

Here I am stuck in Honduras with what seems a bad transmission. (or maybe a lemon delica??!! this constant repairs are wearing me out). This could be trip ending for us… so here are the symptoms:

Vehicle :
1996 Mitsibushi Delica, Super Exceed, LWB, CLR, V6 (6G72). Transmission model : V4AW3

Problem 1
Vehicle seems to be stuck in SECOND gear, it will not down gear or shift regardless of speed or throttle position. Going up hills is a real challenge, we almost didn’t make a few here – hills are steep. Since the engine is lugging to get us up the hills we have had the A/T light light-up again but within moments turned off on its own.

Problem 2 – may or may not be related. Started same time as transmission issues.
There is a fuse (10a) that controls the speedometer and the PRND2L lights on the shift column. This fuse overheats and is melting before it pops (lacking the popping could be due cheap honduran fuses, but we need to explore why this fuse space is heating so much???). When it does pop we lose the transmission shifting – and shifting manually from D to 2 or L does not make any difference. JUST BEFORE it pops we get flashing PRND2L AND a dancing speedometer needle. And some smoke!

Fuse Location : the fuse box located under the steering column, with the ‘top’ of the fusebox nearest to the steering wheel, it is the RIGHT column third fuse down.

By the by, there are two square black relays just to the right of the fuse box. The LOWER relay (one farthest from the steering wheel) is very warm????

EVENTS LEADING to problem
1) The ‘front’ wheels off the 4X4 lights are flashing. Have been flashing for some weeks now, but the four wheel drive is still functioning. I have not replaced the vacuum servo yet as parts availability is limited.
2) Yesterday we drove 3km UP a very steep and rough road. 4X4 normal was engaged (not 4 lock nor 4LLc) and transmission was placed in LOW. We ground up this hill and the A/T light came on. We stopped, idled in neutral for a few minutes then shut down the motor and waited 1/2hour for the engine and transmission to cool. We restarted and finished the last 500m of hill with no problem.
3) I am reminded that the whole problem actually REALIZED while I was preparing for the downward leg of this hill. I had put it in 4LLc and the transmission in L (rocky,sandy,gravel trail rainsoaked) in order to crawl down the hill without overburdening the brakes by using the engine to slow us. Noticed the smoking fuse, noticed the speedometer needle dance and die. Noticed that the PRND2L lights go out.

I cannot believe that a small 4WD episode should kill my transmission - this is a TRUCK for -sake. So maybe there is a simple solution. The OTHER simple solution is a match and a full jerrycan.

Chris
bipbipamericas.blogspot.com

[monnomania]

Ok I got the truck in the shop. The guy put it on the computer and got some codes but doesn't know what they mean.

Codes:
41 CA
42 CC
38 SNR SPEED

anyone got an idea?

[Pajero]

Did a quick google search and this is some info I found, would think it would be the same for a delica but dont know....



Mitsubishi Diagnostic Trouble Code Retrieval for 1996-2004 Mitsubishi Magna, Mitsubishi Verada, TE-TJ, KE-KJ, 3.0L V6 & 3.5L V6 with Manual or Automatic Transmission.pdf



Inside the Mitsubishi Diagnostic Trouble Code Retrieval
Engine Codes:

Transmission Codes (Auto):

Mitsubishi DTC’s (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
11 Oxygen Sensor
12 Air Flow Sensor
13 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
14 Throttle Position Sensor
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
22 Crank Angle Sensor
23 Top Dead Centre (TDC) Sensor
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 Barometric Air Pressure Sensor
36 Ignition Timing Circuit
41 Fuel Injectors
44 Ignition Circuit
52 Ignition Circuit
53 Ignition Circuit
54 Immobiliser System
61 Automatic Transmission Communication PCM Failure

Fault Code Table (Automatic Transmission)
11 Throttle Position Sensor, Sensor Shorted or Disconnected
12 Throttle Position Sensor, Sensor Disconnected
14 Throttle Position Sensor, Sensor Adjustment Incorrect
15 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor, Sensor Disconnected
21 Crank Angle Sensor, Sensor Disconnected
22 Auto Transmission Pulse Generator `A' (Input Shaft Speed Sensor), Sensor Shorted or Disconnected
23 Auto Transmission Pulse Generator `B' (Output Shaft Speed Sensor), Sensor Shorted or Disconnected
26 Brake Lamp Switch, Switch Shorted
31 Auto Transmission Low/Reverse Solenoid, Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
32 Auto Transmission Underdrive Solenoid, Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
33 Auto Transmission Second Solenoid, Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
34 Auto Transmission Overdrive Solenoid, Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
36 Auto Transmission Damper Clutch Control Solenoid, Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
41 First Shift, Shift not perfect
42 Second Shift, Shift not perfect
43 Third Shift, Shift not perfect
44 Fourth Shift, Shift not perfect
46 Reverse Shift, Shift not perfect
51 Engine ECM, Communication Error
52 Damper Clutch Control Solenoid, Malfunction
54 Auto Trans Control Relay, Ground Shorted or Disconnected
55 Auto Trans Control Relay, Contact Points melted or sticking
56 N Range Lamp System, Shorted to Ground
71 Auto Trans ECM, Malfunction



Good luck hope things get better for you!

Joe

[TardisDeli]

Hi, not familiar with that model, but on the L300 diesel, there is a tiny cotter pin on the shift linkage that dies with age, and is very easy to replace. On ours, it is located beside the top of the engine, where the linkage is (ie if you press your accelerator pedal, it moves this linkage), underneath the linkage a tiny cotter pin about half inch long and skinny, breaks with old age. The symptom you get when it breaks is you cannot change out the gear you were in at the time it broke (or can't change out of 2nd gear). Just replace the cotter pin, maybe use a hair pin or paperclip temporarily.

Is heat a factor there, because older fluids break down and "boil" at hot temperatures, making them ineffective. Smell the fluid, should not smell, and definitely should not smell or look toasted.

There are very few gas model L400's locally, but maybe they know better. Good Luck, christine.

[psilosin]

If it is similar to the diesel L400 the usual suspect is the throttle position sensor when shifting gets erratic. When it goes out of adjustment it gimps up all the shift points. There are numerous posts on here regarding how to quickly test your TPS with a voltmeter and how to easily adjust it to the proper setting.

[monnomania]

Good work Pajero

I found this also:

http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49376


All indications so far seem to point out to the Solenoid 1 circuit. damn it. Try to find one of those babies around here???? The shop cleared the previous codes and CODE 41 came back.

I might wonder if this is tied to an intermittent problem with the speed sensor? Maybe that is why I am blowing the fuse that is tied to the speedometer.

The trans fluid looks and smells fine (well what do I know?) to me. It IS hot here and that 3km grunt up the hill would have boiled the feathers off the average chicken!

I am reminded that the whole problem actually REALIZED while I was preparing for the downward leg of this hill. I had put it in 4LLc and the transmission in L (rocky,sandy,gravel trail rainsoaked) in order to crawl down the hill without overburdening the brakes. HAH! Blew the transmission and roasted the brakes on the way down. NICE!

The latest symptom today is - apart from still driving around in 2nd gear - is the A/T light is now steadly flashing along. 'course that could be because the transmission is rolling along in 2nd gear overworking itself to a slow and painful death.

I'll check the cotterpin idea too... tx

[pajerry]

Shoulda climbed the hill in 4llc.. the ATM light should have been a good warning, no? 4wd or all wheel drive is only really good for on road and FSR, anything else that is loose terrain and on a grade, go to 4hlc or 4llc.

That reminds me of driving up to the Mauna Kea Observatory on the Big Island Hawaii and watching two toyota camery rentals being brought down by tow truck since they fried their transmissions during the climb in 2wd.. And that was paved! rental vehicle insurance is void at that point unless you rent a truck with low range.

On the way down, even the jeep drivers were riding their brakes the whole way and you could smell awful burning and most likely warped rotors and boiling brake fluid.. In 4low I didn't have to touch the brakes at a nice comfortable safe speed all the way down. Thats what its for.

Are you sure it wasn't from climbing in 4h? That is pretty hard on the transmission as it is always slipping, thought you said the light came on? Also, don't shut down your engine when you are overheating, it relies on the circulation of oil to cool it through the tranny cooler. Same goes for water temp.. just let it idle at 1100 rpm to keep the juices flowing.

I hope those codes helped you out. I also hope it is as simple as a cotter pin!

[tonydca]

2) Yesterday we drove 3km UP a very steep and rough road. 4X4 normal was engaged (not 4 lock nor 4LLc) and transmission was placed in LOW. We ground up this hill and the A/T light came on. We stopped, idled in neutral for a few minutes then shut down the motor and waited 1/2hour for the engine and transmission to cool. We restarted and finished the last 500m of hill with no problem.

Are you sure it wasn't from climbing in 4h? That is pretty hard on the transmission as it is always slipping, thought you said the light came on? Also, don't shut down your engine when you are overheating, it relies on the circulation of oil to cool it through the tranny cooler. Same goes for water temp.. just let it idle at 1100 rpm to keep the juices flowing.

Water under the bridge, but if I recall correctly what a local Deli mechanic told me, popping the transmission into Neutral or Park stops the fluid circulating through the transmission altogether.

I think recommended procedure is to pull over and stop with the engine just idling but still in Drive, like you are waiting at a traffic light. That way it is actively cooled down. Otherwise you are cooking it in its own juices.

PM TardisDeli or CVI. Butch has probably forgotten more about these vehicles than I will ever know

Good luck with your repairs.

[pajerry]

I think recommended procedure is to pull over and stop with the engine just idling but still in Drive, like you are waiting at a traffic light. That way it is actively cooled down. Otherwise you are cooking it in its own juices.

Good tip, didn't know that!

[legionnair]

With a trans in park or neutral the fluid is still pumping through the trans
Dustin