Headgasket replacement

[hobo eric]

My head gasket has blown on my 92 delica exceed.

I am not experienced with car engines but am quite mechanically minded.

Am i crazy to think about doing this my self?

how many specialized tools will i need to do this?

The timing will need to be done as well.

Where is the best place to get parts in Canada (british columbia)?

I figure this will be a good way to get to know engines and could be benificial if i ever get stuck in the bush.

and advice for a newbie mechanic?

Thanks

-Eric

[thedjjack]

make sure the head has not cracked

use a Mitsubishi head gasket

do belts, tensioners, water pump, oil seals while you are in there..

go slow, torque to spec....

[bosc]

I recommend doing it yourself, but caution to find a mechanically minded friend for coaching.

[hobo eric]

Thanks for the encouragement.

Im moving onto a new property and the owner just replaced his head gasket in his pejaro, so i have some guidance, only hes leaving for the winter in a month and im not sure will get to it by then as i still have to move to the property.

would it be wise to just put on a whole new head?

i also have an option to buy a 91 delica exceed for parts at $1500, the transmission is gone i know for sure, but as far as i know the rest is still tip top. Is there any use in having this? or would i need to buy new parts anyways for this kind of job?

My new landlord said to expect to pay between 1600$ and $2000 in parts to do the head gasket and timing/water pump, does this sound right?

[Rattlenbang]

Depends on where you get the parts and if you replace the head or not. A couple of us on here have bought a UK head online, about $600 delivered, complete. You will generally pay twice that buying a local one. Lordco sells the complete gasket kit for a couple hundred. Add another couple hundred for belts tensioners and fluids and it adds up. just the gasket replacement with the other stuff should be under $500 easy, but given the amount of work it is, I would pay the 600 for a new head.

Personally, I would grab that parts van; you could almost certainly make that money back if you were to part it out. Let me know if you do, 'cause I'm looking for a few bits.

[hobo eric]

Where did you get this head in the UK from?

[Rattlenbang]

ebay.There are several listed; some come with new bolts and gasket kit, some with just a gasket kit like mine did. The regular gaskets were fine but the head gasket was subpar; I would buy that one separate locally from Lordco. You can also get just the blank casting where you move all your components over (cam, valves etc) but I went for the full deal.

[hobo eric]

Thanks for the quick reply,

Is there a list for the tools required for a job like this?

[Rattlenbang]

The only thing I can recall, aside from usual box-end wrenches and a good socket set is the allen socket for the head bolts and a torque wrench.

[TieMyShoe]

Good set it combo wrenches and socket set. Don't go buy a job mate tool kit and expect it to work well... you'll strip bolt heads, smash knuckles and curse the world.

pair of pliers for stubborn lines/hoses

scraper and brake clean to clean the mating surfaces

good quality torque wrench. Buy a proper click style twist grip torque wrench.
do NOT buy one of these! They are horribly inaccurate (yes some people swear by them.. but there's a reason you won't ever see one in a high end shop)


Another handy little thing if this is your 1st HG job is a paint pen. Use it to mark reference points on your timing parts. This will give you a fall back if you get all turned around while re-assembling.

If you really want to do a proper job, a good straight edge and a set of feeler gauges. Place the straight edge diagonally across the head. Now try to slip the thinnest gauge under it at multiple spots. now flip the straight edge diagonally the other way and repeat. If all is well the gauge will not pass under the straight edge, if it does the head is warped and will require further work. (provided it is not past spec). The gauges will also come in handy to rest your valve lash once the engine is put back together.

[thedjjack]

a BEAM type torque wrench is very very accurate ... There are lots of studies comparing torque wrenches...

Mechanics do not use them because the dial ones or click ones are faster (set and go never look at again).... actually most mechanics skip torquing most things (heads might be the exception of things they actually torque)...

Good quality beam torque wrench work great. Mine has probably torque 20 heads on and never a problem on any motor...

I would put my money on a beam style of a Chinese quality click style...it is worth checking the accuracy of a new one always...

But beam works on a very simple principle and as long as you float the handle they work great... I know lots of engine builders that use the beam style as you can feel...just need room to use one...

[TieMyShoe]

Yes a good quality one is very accurate, however from my experience 90% of the beam, style wrenches on the mass market are of terrible quality. Most people buy them because they are cheap and readily available. I don't know the OP and I am not saying he would do this, but I see so many people who are just getting into mechanical work run off to CTR and buy a set of job mate tools thinking they will do the trick.. the job mate torque wrench is a beam style and is about as accurate as wacking a wrench with a cinder block. To get a proper quality beam wrench one needs to go a specialty store (KMS, Summit etc), and most people won't think to do that. So I find it safer to steer people away from a beam wrench. Of course same goes for click sticks, however one is able to get reasonable quality wrenches at big box store still without breaking the bank (Mastercraft maximum or Craftsman or quite nice). I hope this better explains where I was going with that.

On a side yet still related note. Please Please don;t set and forget your torque wrench... it weakens the spring and degrades the accuracy of the tool. Always zero it out when you are done.