Delica L300. Engine stopped on the highway.

[Rattlenbang]

Balance shaft belt won't cause a non-run situation. Mine was like that as well. A lot of guys seem to replace the timing belt but don't bother with the other one assuming it's not important. While it might run a bit rougher without the balance belt in place, the real concern is that when it goes, detritus will get caught under the timing belt and break it.

You'll have to look further fro your problem I'm afraid.

[yojimbo]

My money is on the balance belt has got caught in the timing belt and its jumped a tooth or 2 and now wont run. If youre lucky all the valves etc are ok. Personally I would check the timing marks first and see what it looks like. Remember the belts should have the idlers replaced too, especially the balance belt idler as its prone to failure. Ironically.

[PECTOPAH]

I tried starting the engine without the broken belt and it won't start.

I have to agree with both of you (Rattlebang and yojimbo). That there is more digging to be done to find the issue and it is most likely the "timing belt has jumped a tooth or two". I found the timing belt over the flange of the injection pump sprocket. That can be an indication of the latter. The belt has little tension, the "play" is about 12-15mm instead of recommended 5mm.

The timing belt was replaced about 99,000Km ago by CVI in Vancouver and it seems pretty good still, but the one that broke was all cracked and dry. Funny, I was going to replace it as soon as it serves 100,000Km, and my prediction came true. I was off 1000Km.

Thank you guys. Really appreciate your help. Will keep you posted.

Cheers,

r.

[PECTOPAH]

Update.

The problem was correctly identified by yojimbo (tx). The timing belt slipped due to the broken balancer belt that got in the way.

So, I got hold of a local "mechanic". In quotes, because everybody in Belize is considered a mechanic if he has a bag of wrenches. Anyways, we took the cover off and found that all but three rockers were broken, as well as most of the cam caps.

I was debating whether to take the head off, but it looked no valves were bent so decided not to.

Got all the broken parts (set of caps for $45 USD, set of rockers for $120 USD), took the rad, fan, etc off. Fitted all the new shiny bits on, replaced all belts and the engine started like a champ!

It wasn't meant to be.

We took it for a test drive and it was running fine, I thought, even quieter than before. So with a grin on my face was heading back to the bush (total running time about 10 minutes) when we heard a slight hiss fast becoming a loud whistle. I stopped the engine and waited for someone to give me a lift home. Sure enough, I friend of mine was driving by and we towed me to the "base". When we took the cover off, we found that the cam shaft got seized. ^*(*&^ ^&%#(%$ beep, beep, beep....

The camshaft pin was broken, the new shiny caps worn considerably (especially the front one), the oil seal (part number MD153103, $7.50 USD) burned. (Today, got the seal and ordered the camshaft ($75 USD) that should be here by the end of the day.)

With all the damage that was done to the caps, the old shaft is still turning inside relatively free after some sanding the surfaces, but the damage extended to the head (where the camshaft sits on).

I have a question for the group. Is it possible to leave the head on and replace just the caps and the camshaft? Can the engine run for a while with this kind of damage, or should I be looking for a new(sed) head? Local "mechanics" tell me that the aluminium will worn and accommodate the shape of the shaft, but somehow I have my doubts.

R.

[Rattlenbang]

Bummer, dude. At this point I wouldn't put any more $$$ into that head, and trying to repair it without having a look at what happened underneath, you really are going on a wing and a prayer. And each time you lose timing (this time by a seized cam), you risk tearing out your timing belt, punching a hole in a piston, etc. I suggest doing this methodically. Pull the head, have a good look at piston tops. You really need a machine shop to go over that head, but if there isn't one nearby, you know you can get an entire new head from the UK for just over $400 plus shipping? That head might be salvageable, but just replacing parts that look busted isn't the way to go. I find it strange that the valves were able to do transfer so much force to the cam gear and rockers without any damage to themselves.