Cavitation risks with the 4D56?

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Sun Oct 09, 2016 10:21 am

Hey all, new owner here just having a thought out. In my 7.3 IDI in my '92 F350, Cavitation (aka Block Worm) is a serious issue to keep in mind with the maintains of the engine and requires special coolant charged with SCA'a to prevent such horrors from taking place. I am at the ready to purchase fresh coolant and do the first flush and fill of my ownership. My question is, is there a concern with Cavitation with these engines? I've done a search and returned nothing but i do not completely trust the internet to tell the truth 100 percent.

Thanks

M.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Sun Oct 09, 2016 2:29 pm

4D56s don't suffer from cavitation, the cylinder walls are much thicker and the block stiffer than the 7.3 Navistar engines. No SCA needed, though you still have to use decent antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors due to the alloy head.

For others hearing of cavitation for the first time, I found an excellent article here: http://www.oilburners.net/articles/cavitationartic.html

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Sun Oct 09, 2016 4:22 pm

Thanks for the reply! Do you recommend one type of coolant over another? I was reading about the Glycol levels and that relationship to effective cooling, not sure If I came away understanding if there is a consensus among Delica owners about Coolant brands.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 4:35 am

My preference is whatever's cheapest, changed every couple of years- but I don't have to worry about freezing temperatures. As long as it's got corrosion inhibitor I'm happy. Your mileage may vary

Post by **FalcoColumbarius** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 3:26 pm

Morgonzo wrote: Thanks for the reply! Do you recommend one type of coolant over another? I was reading about the Glycol levels and that relationship to effective cooling, not sure If I came away understanding if there is a consensus among Delica owners about Coolant brands.

Growlerbearnz wrote:My preference is whatever's cheapest, changed every couple of years- but I don't have to worry about freezing temperatures. As long as it's got corrosion inhibitor I'm happy. Your mileage may vary

I like Hepu G11. It's designed for the same galvanic formulation, costs more, really good and for every two years I don't mind spending a bit extra.

Falco.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 3:44 pm

Thanks for the reply's. I ended up going with Zerex 50/50. What is your preferred flush procedure? I've got new glow plugs (6.2v) and a copper gp rail coming in the mail as soon as I can get paypal to cooperate.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Tue Oct 11, 2016 4:38 pm

I've never actually flushed my block (the coolant is always clean), so I'll leave that one for someone else.

Just watch those 6.2V glow plugs- the ECU monitors the glow plugs' resistance as they heat up (presumably to avoid detonating the fancy ceramic OEM plugs). Some aftermarket plugs have the wrong resistance and the ECU won't work properly.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:53 pm

Thanks Growlerbearnz. Any idea of hand what the correct resistance is? I suspect that I have one or two under-preforming GP's, and would like to test them with a multi-meter when I pull them. I'm looking to do radiator flush and oil change this weekend, if my supplies arrive on time. I've been trying to find the right thermostat, and am confused again. Is there an easy source for the correct one (82 degree...right?)
I'm rambling, but trying to manage my excitement and get it done right, with the right parts the first time.

One more question I wanted to ask, there is a smallish silver sticker on the black timing belt cover. It has 170,797 written on it. I'm cautiously hoping that the sticker means that my timing and balancing belts were done right before I got the van. I'm going to try to post a picture..

: IMG_1147.JPG (440.16 KiB) Viewed 6947 times

Post by **FalcoColumbarius** » Sun Oct 16, 2016 10:56 am

Although I do not read (or speak) Japanese, I would presume that the top numbers 26, 1 & 29 are a reference to a date ('though I'm not making sense of the numbers without understanding the ideograms amid them) and the bottom six numbers (170,797) are referring to the kilometres on the odometer when the job was last done, in Japan. How many kilometres are on your wagon now? Are there anymore stickers nearby that have a reference to the T belt (such as six numbers &c..)?

Falco.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Sun Oct 16, 2016 3:45 pm

Clearly the belt was changed on Imperial Era Heisei-26, January 29th. That's 2014/01/29 to you westerners.

(Ok, so I just learned something about date and time notation in Japan: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Date_and_ ... n_in_Japan)

The Engine Electrical workshop manual (http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7333) says the glow plugs should be 0.6 to 1.0 ohms at 20C.

There's a full workshop manual in the L300 technical reference section too.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Mon Oct 17, 2016 11:14 am

Thanks for the reply Falco and Growlerbearnz! I currently have 173,680K on the clock so it must not have been driven very much after the belt change..Great News!

Growlerbearnz, I really appreciate you taking the time to de-code the Japanese characters for me. Thanks. I've been trying to answer all my questions using the manuals but it gets confusing at times

I do have another question, what is your process for changing the fuel filter? do you have to take off the the fuel lines from the filter head to get to the water separator? It's my last filter to changeand I wanted to ask before i dove into the job. It does not seem to have enough clearance to get the new filter in with those lines in place.

Cheers y'all

M

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Oct 17, 2016 3:23 pm

Morgonzo wrote:Do you have to take off the the fuel lines from the filter head to get to the water separator? what is your process for changing the fuel filter?

Fuel line removal: nope. The water separator is screwed into the bottom of the filter- from underneath you should be able to see a plastic wing nut spigot thing, if you open that the fuel (and any water that's collected) will fall out. It's intended so you can drain any collected water without disturbing the rest of the filter.

To change the filter I unplug the wires leading to the water separator unit, then unscrew the filter, complete with water separator, from the filter head. I don't have to remove any fuel lines -maybe move them out of the way a bit. Once the filter is out, you can swap the water separator onto your new filter and reinstall. (take a moment to figure out how the water separator drain spigot works- it's a good idea to drain it every time you change your oil.)

Once the filter is reinstalled, prime it using the priming pump on the filter head- mash the black button down repeatedly until it becomes firm. You may need to use the primer pump while the engine is cranking, just to get the last of the air out of the filter.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Tue Oct 18, 2016 8:03 am

Sweet, I'll give that a shot. I'm only asking because it didn't seem like there was enough room to get the filter through the lines. I'd rather not take them off, disturbing old rubber in my limited experience tends to lead to leaks. I don't want to mess with those lines unless I was ready to replace them. My new filter came a fresh O ring that i'm assuming goes between the water sep and the filter bottom.
So through logical deduction, i an figuring that the idiot light on the dashboard of the fuel filter is the Water In Fuel light eh? and no light for GP's, just the two clicks from behind the drivers seat.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:50 am

Welp, i'm having a hard time getting my water separator O ring to seal on the new filter. Tried the old one again..drip drip drip..tried the new one again..drip drip drip. I gotta take a break. Just to review..I am putting the o ring on the separator and then screwing it into the filter base. I've used a bit of Vasoline to hold the ring on...I've tried it tight..and just hand tight. Drip drip drip.

Frustrating.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Tue Oct 18, 2016 3:04 pm

ok, persistance pays off. it was the tiny o-ring on the water separator valve. in my Metric o-ring kit from Harbor Freight its a number 009 with a ID of 5.8 and an OD of 9.6. one fresh ring and the problem was solved. The kit also has the size that goes between the filter and wat/sep.

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