HID Headlamps

[JMK]

So just to recap this thread to make sure I've got it right, you can get the e-code headlight pod from various sources for around $250.00 - $300.00, which includes H1 and H3 bulbs that aren't all that great. So if you're going to replace them you can get better bulbs at Lordco, Canadian Tire, Parts Source, Wal Mart, etc. Or, you can convert to HID. If you are contemplating an HID conversion, using separate bulbs for hi/low h1 h3 beams using HID ballasts and bulbs could be a workable solution to low light output. Low cost HID systems have an unacceptable warm up time for full illumination. As they take 4-5 seconds or more to warm up, it is imperative that they are not switched off during the dipping process (I.E., leave the low beams on continuous). As inspectors may not know that automatic leveling systems are part of the installation, such an installation may not pass inspection, so HID conversion is best given substance as a post-inspection procedure.

There are differing degrees of HID conversion kits ranging from $239.00at Xtralights (need one of each for H1 and H3) up to $439.00 depending on which kit.

Xtralights appears to be in the Vancouver area, anyone heard of them or used their products? As Xtralights has wholesale pricing based on a minimum buy-in quantity it is probably best to get a few people together for a group buy. If anyone interested maybe let me know.



Another supplier appears to be Omega in New Jersey that was listed in the forum above. Their high end kits seem to be cheaper at $390.00 (compared to $439.00):

[Erebus]

For off-road I carry just a handheld 1000000 candlepower spotlight. I checked at north shore offroad for the price on the spotlight that goes through a gasket on your roof to swivel it around at it is like $400. The handheld was $15 so I will stick with it

By the way, according to Alberta Regulations (Div. 6, part 49):
"A person shall not drive or own a motor vehicle that has a lamp that is commonly known as a search light."

So I strongly recommend the handheld version. Of course police cars here in Calgary have searchlights. But then, most emergency vehicles (police, fire, and EMS) don't seem to comply with many of the regulations (e.g., amber flashing lights on ambulance).

[Green1]

I wouldn't put much faith in that rule, keep in mind every utility vehicle, half the construction vehicles, most fire trucks, some ambulances, and all police cars ignore that regulation...
I have recently discovered many regulations that are borken by the majority of vehicle manufacturers let alone the public...
As with everything the key is in discretion, if you're shining it in people's eyes you'll be in trouble, if you use it responsibly there will be no issue.

The other thing to note is that most items are only considered to be "fitted" if they're uncovered (eg, you can have a full red and blue lightbar as long as you have a cover over it when on public streets)
off-road lights must be covered when on the road, and you can get away with many other things that way as well, as long as you cover them when on public roads.

personally I'm looking to add one of these: http://www.pseamber.com/productdtl.asp? ... d=12&id=68 you can even get them with a wireless remote

[knight]

The stock bulbs really do suck. I was pulled over on my way back home my first night with the van and told to park it till morning as they were "grossly inadequate" I replaced the low and high with the piaa Xtreme white which is a 4000K 55w bulb. Wow what a difference.

[jrman]

Sounds good - time for me to change. Do you mind advising where you got them and the price?
Many tks.

[knight]

I picked them up from Lordco. They where just over $100 a pair with the taxes. So just over $200 for all four. They do also have the star white bulbs for less. But I wanted the Xtreme whites, I have had good luck with them in the the past for a car that ran a h3/h1 combo. They do not offer the star white in H1 just the xtreme white so if you want your bulbs to match you need to spend more.


I have also found the silvanias to be very good in the past, unfortunatly I have never been able to find a H3 bulb in canada to see how they work. (only ever used h4) But when compared to the piaa the piaa is a crisper bulb, more white less blue, and more of a distinct line when adjusted. Almost HID

Here are some links for more info
http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H3.html
http://www.piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H1.html

[DelicaMark]

A quick follow-up on the PIAA bulbs that I put in for my low beams. They were brighter than the stock ones. However the left one burnt out after about two months and the right one just burnt out last week. The right one lasted about 7 months and the left about 2 months. I replaced the left one with a standard GE bulb and it has lasted for about 5 months without a problem and I have replaced the right one with the same GE bulb.

For me the PIAA bulbs are nicer but they didn't seem to last long enough for how much of a pain it is to change the bulbs, so I am sticking with the crappy GE bulbs. Thought I would share my experiences. Maybe I'll install some driving lights to supplement the crappy GE bulbs.

-Mark

[marsgal42]

I've been following this and related threads with interest, now that Gumdrop has forced the issue with a burned-out low-beam/DRL bulb.

I'm undecided between better conventional bulbs (e.g. PIAA), or installing an HID system. All my local Crappy Tire had in H1/H3 were some cheap GE bulbs. I should be able to do better.

...laura

[delicat]

I did the HID conversion and I'm quite happy with it but will need more time to see if it's as reliable as advertised. (3x longer life of so)

[JMK]

Apart from the reliability issue would love to see a more in depth review after you've had a chance to do some long night drives and see what you think. Also details on where you got it, price, and specifications if that's not too much to ask!

Also I should repeat what I think is probably one of the most important and significant changes I made to the Delica: changing the wiring to 10 guage direct from the battery to the headlights. Basically I installed a entire new wiring harness and it made a huge difference to my halogen bulbs. After seeing the factory wiring harness and it's puny guage wire, I can't believe that this isn't something this is considered an absolute must for every Delica, yet no one seems to have the time or inclination to undertake the half day job that costs about $20.00 in materials. If you do the math by looking at the charts it seems clear that today's bulbs cannot receive the proper nourishment in current they require from the old factory wiring.

Also I should mention that I just finished ordering a complete set of LED's to do a total LED conversion of all the lights (apart from the halogen high/low beams). Due to the fact I also bought clearance lights, and expensive 3W xenon bulbs for the backup, tail, and cornering lights, the total cost for LED conversion was around $350.00.

[Green1]

JMK: I don't suppose you'd mind listing what types and quantities of LED bulbs you needed (so I don't have to take each fixture appart twice (once to check, and once to install the new bulbs))

Also, did you do the dash lights at the same time? or are those still incandescent?

[JMK]

I bought a few dash replacements (about 5 I think) and 3 instrument replacements, on those I just went by what the guy in Australia told me were required for L300 Vans because I couldn't figure out an easy way to access the dash lights, I was going to ask about that here?

Here's the list of bulb types:
tail/Brake: 1157, 3 Watt Luxeon, max width of bulb head 26mm (do not use oversized LED, and thi is true for all the following 1156 bulbs)

Backup: 1156 (3 Watt Luxeon, 80 Lumens):

rear signal: 1156 (24-LED)

License plate lights (2) 67-X15

Rear Tailgate 'Delica strip': didn't do this one.

Front cornering signal: 1156 3 Watt Luxeon

Front Signals: 10mm 194 (push in) socket

City light module: as above
All the dome, map, and step interior lights, 10 in total: 31mm festoon bulbs (I used a number of different option for this including a PCB board for one overhead dome, and a couple of red 9 bulb festoons for 2 of the map lights). For the rest I use the 2 bulb hi flux lights that had the highest lumen count except for the PCB board which has 12 LED's and a festoon connector:

Dash Lights: 3 T10 style (from third party information I was given)

Instruments: 20 T5 style bulbs (from third party information I was given)

For clearance lights I went with 7 High Flux amber for the front and 3 red for the rear:

As noted in another thread, I already have 10mm 194 LED's in my front signal lights and I did not need to use a load resistor to make my flashers work properly, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed on that one. If I do need one, I was wondering if you could just put a regular 1157 bulb inline as a temporary solution until you got a resistor.

[Green1]

Front cornering signal: 1156 3 Watt Luxeon
Front Signals: 10mm 194 (push in) socket

just to clarify, there is a front signal, a side signal, and the white cornering light, I'm assuming the top one I quoted is the white cornering light? and the bottom one you list is the front signal, what is the side signal?

as for load resistors, 2 options, on is to put a resistor in parallel to the bulbs to increase current draw enough for the flasher, the other is to retrofit to an electronic flasher (which is a much better option) I would think anywhere selling the LED bulbs would also have electronic flashers...

I would also love to see the end result of your clearance light install, I've been planning to do that too, I'm just not sure about the "right" modules for the delica... (it's a narrow vehicle so I want some small lights...)

[JMK]

Oops!!!! I totally forgot about that front signal light!!!!! Crap, I wonder if I can still catch my order before they ship it. Oh well, there's always next time and I will have 2 spare 194 socket bubls, I don't even know what kind of bulbs that one uses right now.

SuperBright LEd's (the guys I ordered from) do list a flasher unit but I didn't really know which one would be a match for the Delica so because the side flashers were working OK I didn't bother. But now that you point it out, I'll bet the reason my flasher is OK is because the front signal is still incandescent and it is providing the required resistance. So maybe I should leave them alone and then my side corner flashers will still work correctly. On those, yes it is the 1156 socket for the cornering light (white), and the 194 socket for the corner flasher (amber). I thought it would be nice to have maximum brightness for cornering so that's why I got the more expensive Luxeon 3 watt bulbs for that.

Those clearance lights are a pain because if you can't hold them in your hand and see them you're taking a gamble. I picked those because they did seem to be about the smallest they listed, and because of the stainless base they use. I finally just got them because I was paying shipping on the other stuff anyway, and because I've never really seen anything locally that I could use. It's a bit of a gamble doing it like I did because they could end up looking like sh*t, but at least as they're stailess I could use them on a boat (but unfortunately all I own is are 2 inflatible sea kayaks and a Zodiak). I'm also not looking forward to pulling the headliner and punching holes in the roof, so if I finally do get the courage and get it done I'll be happy to show you the results when I'm in Calgary some day, or when you're passing through Banff.

[torchard]

I was thinking of doing the same, but I found the voltage to be sufficient at the bulbs, and instead replaced with PIAA 55w and moved onto other things. Having said that, perhaps my reading wasn't accurate, perhaps the amperage is low... because despite noticable gains with new bulbs and headlight adjustments, I'm still underwhelmed.

Did you replace the wiring directly into the connectors i.e. replace all traces of stock loom?

I'd like to do a simple test by running a fused wire from battery to low beam and verify the results.

--T

...Also I should repeat what I think is probably one of the most important and significant changes I made to the Delica: changing the wiring to 10 guage direct from the battery to the headlights....