Brake-Question - don't want to damage my rotors

[impalator]

Hi All,

For about 5 days now, my van is acting up when it comes to braking. I actually had a chance to ask a few of you who came to the North Van Mini-Meet last Sunday - and got some good insight... but a few questions remain:

Symptoms:

- Need way more push on the gas pedal to get the thing going
- Will kick down into lower gear even if going straight and only slightly increasing gas-pressure
- At red light, won't roll when brake is released
- When stopped on a straight road (as it won't roll - even in drive) and I hit the brake, the van jerks "ever so slightly" to the left, when brake released it "ever so slightly" jerks back to right/center.
- left front rim gets warm - even if only driven for a five minute distance
- after stopping and getting out of the van, there is audible "ticking" (metal cooling down) coming from the front left wheel

As I thought, and many participants at the above mentioned "Mini Meet" confirmed, it is likely to be the caliper front left.

Now here are my questions: I was told that calipers would be in the area of about $ 40.00 and that it is about a 15 - 20 minute job to do one wheel.

I called RJD in North Van as I am not sure if I will burn out my brake and mess up my rotor if I go all the way down to Richmond (CVI) and was told that one caliper is more like $ 90.00 a piece, that if one is done, the other one needs to be done too (or it will go down the drain a week later) and that it would be around 1.5 hours for both wheels (i.e. about $ 80 - 120 for labour alone).

So - before I do anything, I was hoping that somebody who had their caliper(s) done and understands brakes could give me a quick insight as to what I should do and what such a caliper is really worth ($ 40.00 or $ 90.00 - it is after all a difference of over 100% in cost).

Thanks in advance and cheers,

Chris

[Profister]

PM sent.

[jessef]

They are correct.

When performing brake work, always do both sides.

One shop may charge $40 or $90. It depends on their supplier and their markup.

I would buy the parts myself and take the to the shop so you only get charged shop time for the install.

Since your baking the rotor and it's been dragging, the likelyhood of the rotor being worn down past the safely allowed thickness is very likely. In which case you would need to replace that rotor, and the other side as well since you don't replace just one side.

Call up Napa and get a cost on calipers, rotors and pads for an 88 Montero.

Make sure you get the quote with/without the core (caliper) charge.

Take that quote to your shop.

I highly recommend not going cheap and getting the best brakes you can afford. Especially on the front.

This may also be a good time for you to consider going with dual piston calipers (Gen II) because they are cheaper yet yield a better braking advantage over stock single piston calipers.

I've done brakes up the ying yang over the past decade on Montero/Pajero/Delica's. Feel free to shoot me a PM and give me a call.

I'll give you a 100% honest cost breakdown of a partial and complete job both with cheaper and good quality brake parts.

[patty]

Just looking through enviroimports parts page and a full break job is 300 plus tax
calipers $99
front pads $99
shoes $99
dont know about rotors?
thats the delica parts, probably the montero parts might be a bit cheaper (cause there not imported)

[FalcoColumbarius]

Regarding having to push the accelerator more from a stop position strikes me as being a tuning issue ~ from how I read your post.

Regarding changing gears prematurely, I would say that that would be your kick-down linkage, which could also help to explain your lack of power ~ for if something is out of whack on your injector pump then other aspects of the pump would also be out and the kick-down linkage adjustment is located on the injector pump.

Regarding the brake issue ~ I have just had something similar, as has Fexlboi I understand. There is a pin that holds the callipers in place (amongst other things) and one of mine had rust on it, so it was a little sticky and I would hear intermittent squeaks from my right front wheel as I drove until I engaged the brake. Butch at CVI cleaned the rust off the pin and greased it and everything is well.

As far as advice is concerned: I place my trust in CVI, they know these machines ~ and that is where I would go.

These are older vehicles, as well built as they are, there are some things that have to be addressed, such as rubber, like seals and bushings. The more I drive my van the more I understand the driving habits of the previous owner. The way I look at it ~ a new vehicle compatible with the Delica would start at $40,000.00. So I spend a quarter of that and then some to get all the bugs out. I am still paying half as much (or less) for a superior machine.

I hope this helps... smiles.

Falco.

[coaxial]

I had a sticking caliper due to a hole in the rubber seal around the caliper piston on one side. Similar symptoms to yours. I replaced the calipers on both sides, I used short stop on marine drive in north van, about $90 a side plus labour. He gets the parts from lordco and marks up but not much.

He hadn't worked on a delica before but had no issues, told him to locate the parts under 88 montero.

Replaced the pads myself with the porcelain ones from CVI. Adjusted the rears as well, still pretty weak brakes overall

[jessef]

dual pistons There's a reason why they adopted duallies in both the 94+ L300's, L400's, Pajero's and Montero's. Better braking power/modulation.

Like Falco said as well.

The slider pins tend to rust. It's a common issue in the north with Montero's as well. I had the same problem with mine back in 98.

If you replace the calipers, make sure you get either a semi or fully loaded set. They will include new greased sliders with seal caps.

[impalator]

Hi everybody,

Thanks for all your feedback - So far I am most comforted by Falco's reply... although I am clear about the fact that I will have to replace calipers and brake pads etc at one point. The reason I tend to look at Falco's reply is that I have a 1969 Ford Cortina MkII which has discs in the front and drums in the back - and about one year ago I had the same issue - vehicle slowing down when coasting, even on slight decline car would stop, front right hub/rim got quite warm and a bit of rust on the pin holding the caliper prevented the brake on that side from releasing completely.

A bit of cleaning, polishing and greasing eliminated that issue and about 30 bucks later I was cruising ok again....

What struck me as particular - and what I believe supports the "rusty pin" notion is the following:

- It has been quite cold again lately and with the cold temperatures this issue came about
- It happened overnight - not progressively getting worse or so.... just suddenly it was bad

What is weird is the fact that the van doesn't pull to the left (which, if indeed the left front brake sticks - and it is obviously not a front wheel drive - it should do in my opinion)

Plus the other weird thing is that - as described in my initial post - when the van is stationary and not moving (i.e. engine running, transmission in drive - but won't roll due to the sticky brake) the van "jerks" a bit to the left when I hit the brake and back again to "normal/center" when the brake is released.

When applying the brake lightly and increasing the pressure on the pedal progressively, the "jerk to the left" motion becomes a more subtle "sway to the left" motion... isn't that weird? Never seen anything like it....

Anyway - I'll take it in today and hope that all will be good at not too high a bill....

Cheers, Chris

[Meanman]

The braking issue can also be a result of brake line breakdown. By this I mean that the internal of the brake line becomes so gummed up/ brokendown that it restricts the flow of fluid thereby causing the calipers to stick. I've had this problem with a previous vehicle. Just ano9ther option to look at.

[FalcoColumbarius]

Typically, Impalator, When something is not right ~ always start with the least rather than starting with the worst assumption. For instance: Say you have poor charge to your battery and the light is coming on; clean the battery posts before you replace the alternator. Same goes with the brakes. Crawl under the van and inspect the brake lines before you buy new ones. This is why I like Butch ~ apart from his knowledge of the vehicles, he will look to the simple possibilities and will save you money before he starts replacing parts.

When I first got my van I had concerns.

• One: As I had learned to drive in the UK, I was worried that I might have flashbacks ~ i.e.; I thought of the possibility of thinking about something else when operating the vehicle and inadvertently pulling into the oncoming traffic lane.
  Two: Driving on the low side of the camber was initially freaky. Driving down Lonsdale and turning left onto Keith felt like the van was going to roll.
  Three: Most of the vehicles that I had previously owned had had leaks. Leaks under the engine (oil), fuel leaks, coolant leaks ~ so any time I was in a public car park and saw a pool of green under the front of the van I got this sinking feeling in my gut until I realised that my rad was much further back on this van.

Now that I have told you this don't go driving around in complete abandon! Just chill out, exercise you dialectic skills and you will enjoy your van much more. I see my van like I would a ship, rather than a car. These vans are built really well but they are still effected by environmental issues, age and use. With most cars they are driven with a disposable mentality. Drive it 'til it dies. But when you have a ship you take a different mental attitude. You replace things as they go. You repaint things as the paint gets worn off. Do you take my meaning? And the more you understand your van, the more intimate you become with her so when you hear a new sound you have an acquired intrinsic instinct as to what could be causing the new noise ~ and also what noises are serious and which are just noises.

Now I am starting to go on a tangent. One day I will write a thirty page thesis on the Delica!

Regarding pulling, mine pulls a little to the right when braking (although I am not completely satisfied with the alignment, either). They may not be front wheel drive but they are four wheel drive, meaning ~ they have a drive train to the front wheels which could affect performance ~ and don't forget that you are now sitting over the wheel with the engine behind you to the left; where before you were sitting behind the wheels with the engine in front of you and to the right, so the dynamics are different from the start.

Falco.

P.S.: Don't forget that they are a short wheel base. You have likely noticed that when you go over a bump the van's attitude wants to change ~ and with the pathetic condition of the Greater Vancouver roadways...

Speaking of rough roads ~ Are you guys coming camping with us? See: http://www.delica.ca/forum/camping-lowe ... -4954.html