Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

If you are talking about coming off the Duffy then I would agree its tough to keep the breaks cool. The only advice I would give is feathering the breaks on an off as much a possible. By that I mean brake heavy for a bit then let off to let cool air get in between the rotors and calipers. You could also take a break at the look out and let things cool down next time.

I would say manual transitions have a big advantage in this kind of situation.

Cheers

S

Slimdog wrote:I would say manual transitions have a big advantage in this kind of situation.

automatics more than capable in this scenario as well, just have to take advantage of all ranges as mentioned including H/L for the tranny.

I find manuals more adv in winter; smoother for same concept on ice, can stop way faster with 4x4 manual in winter than any other vehicles if you are good driver.

check rotors for warping (vibrations) after the abuse

I only wish there was a 3rd gear to go into, it's a bit of a jump between D,2 and L. The vehicle is driving exactly as it did before the abuse so hopefully no harm was done. Next time I will definitely concentrate more on shifting and feathering but will most likely take a break anyways.

Unless you custom build the transmission it will not hold back as well as a standard. Reality of a torque converter...most automatic will add another belt dragging when in Low as well to increase the engine braking.

When I use to come down the Duffy in loaded one ton I kept it under 30km/h for almost the whole hill. Never had a problem with being hit. Speed limits are just that...there is no minimum speed on the duffy for a reason.

thedjjack wrote:most automatic will add another belt dragging when in Low as well to increase the engine braking.

belt? been about 10 years since I had a tranny apart.... might need a refresher on any belts.

While I do prefer manuals (have auto now, last one hopefully; prefer the feel and control of a manual), I have found that automatics are capable in most cases to manuals, just more "clunky chunky" and more creativety required for the gear maniplulation. Never as smooth clunking between gears in an auto and for some reason I am never as comfortable with higher RPM's in an auto as I am in a standard. Guess I prefer, and maybe understand better, the gear on gear ratios vs the hydraulics and torque converter.

I should I suppose point out for comparison sake that my Mighty Max has the same brakes as my L300 but is manual and I have never had any problems with the brakes. Considering I drive that truck really hard (and with a lot of weight in the back) I think it must all come down to being more comfortable downshifting.

Sleepy...Belt = Band (my bad)

I hate rebuilding autos....at least a standard you can visually check prior to install...

I will take a standard especially over the newer computer controlled 6 speed autos $$$$$$$$.....

Maybe you should install an exhaust brake...
Has anyone installed one on a Delica before?

Nick
Next time you pass a highway weigh scale, stop by. You can weigh back or front and deduct from total. Delicas are very front heavy and with all you've added may have put a heavier load on your front brakes. Keep a log and note how much more you take each camping trip. New calipers won't change your weight balence!!

Transfer any moveable weight inside to the back near your liftgate. Yup, load up the tailgate, more than the the rest of the van. Amazing how this softens up the ride too. This transfers weight to your rear brake, loweres the asss end and loads the rear brakes more.

Back brakes are underutilized on Delicas, both L300 and L400. On potholy roads the back end is much more controllable with more weight over the rear wheels too. I load water, propane (better outside!) food and coolers at the back tailgate.

Wayne TLGF

Nick
I reread your original blog and realized from my L300 days that you probably have a caliper that is hanging up. If one side is hotter than the other, ie: smoking, the caliper piston is hanging up. Very common delica brake problem.

All 4 front wheel bearings should be regreased when you pull the calipers. Easy job. PM me if you don't have the tools.

With all that heat you've also glazed the pads, check for cracks. Save up some cash, it's time for new brake caliper, pads, longer hoses too.

TLGF

I just had my brakes greased and checked at Cvi and everything was fine. When the time comes I will do the upgrade to the montero dual piston calipers. I keep as much weight as I can in the back but most of the time my weight comes from humans there shouldn't be much more weight at the front either, I've only added 2 fairly light boxes to the front and the basket adds weight to the back. The larger tires may have contributed. I think I was just over-braking and should gave let them cool off at least between the off-roading and the drive home.

nxski wrote:I just had my brakes greased

Not sure greasing your brakes will help...I guess without friction you will not over heat them (or stop)!

Also how old is the brake fluid in the van? should be changed ever 2 - 3 years....flush is not a bad idea (no one ever does this).

Cheers
David

Greased the sliders, I thought they had seized but I was wrong. I'm not sure how old the fluid is. Most people don't change it or do a proper flush? How easy is that as a DIY project?

tow people start at the farthest corner add new fluid and bleed out until clean fluid comes out.


As one person presses the brake peddle the other person opens the bleed screw....then tighten the bleed screw and then the person inside lets the peddle up.. then repeat...if you run the master empty you have to start again as you now got air in the system.....

that is basically it....

Just means your boil point of the fluid will be lower if old plus it can damage seals and cylinders as it picks up dirt....

Sounds simple enough. Now to convince someone to help me work on my van. I'm usually a solitary creature when it comes to that