Frost Plug location 4M40 engine

[pajerry]

You only have to remove the intercooler and airbox pipes getting it from the top.

With some fussing around I drained the oil, removed the oil filter, drained the coolant, and then smacked it out with a 3' flathead screwdriver from the bottom. Its a tight squeeze and on a funny angle, but it popped out no prob once I had the screwdriver. The first attempt I used shorter ones that just didn't work and wasted time changing fluids out to get back to a shop that had a 3 footer.

Getting the block heater in was a bit of a pain as it has to be hooked in at the right angle so the element does not to touch metal inside the block. (apparently not a lot of room in there)

Then tapped it in with a small ball-peen and a blunt tool careful to get it flush all around.


And yes you have to drain the coolant or else it will all spill out the frost plug. (I did on my face )

[naossoan]

Think I might still be confused. We're talking about the right side of the engine, right? Like...the same side the steering wheel is on.

I don't see why I would need to take the intercooler off as it's covering the other side of the engine...same side as the battery.
Also, I have no idea how you would have done it from the bottom. The bottom of my truck is covered in protective covers and stuff, can't even see the engine from underneath.

I took some pictures of what I think is the frost plug I'm looking for. All I had to remove was a metal heat shield (I think?) that was kind of in the way from seeing it. Can you let me know if this is what I'm looking for as far as the frost plug is concerned? It looks about the right size...Don't even know where to begin to look for the plugs to drain the coolant system but I'm sure the mechanics can figure that out.

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Also, I think I'm having an issue with my battery because I went to start the truck and it was totally dead, like the dashboard lights wouldn't even come on dead. I've had issues with this before with it starting to get colder here in Manitoba. I took the battery out and there are 2 level markings on it saying UPPER and LOWER and I can see liquid through the plastic that is right at the LOWER line...everything else is in Japanese so I have no idea what the wattage/aperage of the battery is to get a replacement. Does anyone know what I should get? My truck has 2 batteries so I should probably replace both I guess. Maybe I should have the batteries tested first? Problem is I can't get the thing started to drive it over to the shop lol. Maybe I take the batteries out and bring them over there to have em tested before buying new ones.

[pajerry]

Well, its either be small enough to climb into the engine bay and work upper body in where you're pics show, or have arms that can reach up from under... you pick.

From under I forget if I had to remove the skids etc. Probably. They're held on by six bolts, no big deal.

The intercooler only has to come off if its in your way, its often in the way. Airbox out will give you even more elbow room. These are all things that come off with four bolts, so it takes no time.



Oh and YES that is the right plug.


A decent mechanic should probably take half hour to an hour as I did in one.

[Manitoba deli]

Where abouts in Manitoba are you? I may be able to recommend a shop for you if you are near Winnipeg, or if you are anywhere near Dauphin, I can help you out.

Jason

[naossoan]

Thanks Pajerry, that's what I wanted to know!!

I'm about an hour and 45 minutes drive southwest of Winnipeg, near Morden.

Also, I just took my 2 batteries to Canadian Tire to have them tested. I thought they would be around 675 cca so I had him test them at that. One rated at like mid 100's cca and the other at mid 350's cca...so I think that might be part of the problem lol who knows how old they are the label is all in Japanese. I bought 1 new battery with cca of 700, because I know for a fact the one up front closer to the radiator is the one that's hooked up to the starter, glow plugs, etc.

The second battery near the back closer to the windshield I have absolutely no idea what that battery powers. No clue. The cable goes down and disappears within the other mess of wires on that side of the engine. I have a feeling that maybe it's what powers some of the electrics on the intercooler and stuff like the fan and whatever, but I don't know for sure. I'll have to actually take the intercooler off again so I can get a better look at where that wire goes. Maybe I don't even need it, I don't know.

Thanks for your help guys. Also, Manitoba Deli if you can recommend me a shop in Winnipeg I wouldn't mind. I'm sure if I go to the shop here in town though and say...I need you to put this plug in that hole (and show them where it is), here are the instructions that came with the plug - go to it...They shouldn't have a problem with doing it as it's fairly simple I guess. The only thing is I don't know where the plugs are to drain the coolant system so they may need to take off the bottom skid plates and stuff like you said.

[jessef]

The 2nd battery is connected to the first one in parallel.

Ditch the original japanese batteries. I was just talking with another 2.8 owner who is going through their 2nd alternator and batteries because the old batteries took out the voltage regulator/diodes in the alternator.

bad batteries = kill alternator
bad alternator = kill batteries

don't mess around with old batteries. you'll regret it and pay 2-3times for what you could have simply bought new batteries to begin with.

and never mix battery types. that's just a no-no.

[naossoan]

Erm...The second battery did not appear to be connected to the other one in any way (both batteries are out of the truck atm as I took them to Canadian Tire). For the second battery, the ground was connected to the chassis with a cable, and the + had a cable going down somewhere in the mess of wires near the engine as I mentioned previously so I have no idea how that is hooked up.

If they were connected in Parallel, they should have a bar/cable going from + to + and - to - on each battery should they not?

[Fishtank]

don't mess around with old batteries. you'll regret it and pay 2-3times for what you could have simply bought new batteries to begin with.

and never mix battery types. that's just a no-no.

BIG X2 on this. Change them both or if you can't afford two of the same, just downgrade to one. You're asking for trouble if you play mix-n-match.

[jessef]

it goes to the starter/alternator

[naossoan]

Mmmm jfarsang I don't think it does because I know for a fact the battery up front is connected to the starter, alternator, glow plugs etc.

I will be opening it up again tomorrow during the day to find out where that cable goes and whether that second battery is even necessary at all. If they are supposed to be connected in parallel, the batteries are not even positioned in a way that makes that very easy. One is positioned long ways parallel with the side of the truck whereas the other one closest to the windshield is positioned long ways parallel with the back of the engine compartment so they're set up perpendicular to each other. Pretty hard to set up solid battery bars when the batteries aren't even positioned for it. Though I guess it wouldn't have to be solid bars, could be some thick gauge wire/cable I suppose.

Anyone have pictures of their battery setup?

EDIT: Looks like you were right after all jfarsang. The positive leads from each battery go down and connect in to a common larger bundle of cables. The rear one first connects to some cylinder near the rear of the engine compartment but then connects in with a large bundle of cables that the positive lead from the other battery connects in to.

The weird thing though is that the negative lead of the battery up front has a cable connecting to the side of the engine compartment (ground), but also has cables going to the little box that connects to the glow plugs, and another cable gong down somewhere that I can't see where it goes, whereas the negative lead on the rear battery only has a single cable connecting to the side of the engine compartment (ground).

If I can remember back to the last time I took any kind of science in grade 11, I guess having each negative lead connected to the same piece of metal on the engine compartment, and connecting in to the same bundle of cables is technically a parallel connection I suppose. It just doesn't appear that way at first glance.

So I've done myself in because I only bought 1 battery thinking the second one didn't do much and my roommate (source of a ride to town) is leaving after work today to go back home for 10 days...so I'm stuck without a vehicle in rural manitoba for a while hahahhaha. And there's no way I'm going to connect the new battery and the old battery because I will just screw up the new one.

I noticed on the positive lead on the front battery there is a small box connected right near the connector that says 80A on it, to me that kinda means 80Amp Hours I guess? The battery I bought doesn't say anything about what the Amps are, just the cold cranking amps...

[pajerry]

Sorry didn't read all your last post. But Jesse is right. The two batteries are wired in parallel giving you more CCamps at 12volts. I would go buy one more of whatever battery you bought asap before you start wearing the new one. If they are not both identical/brand new, they will start a cycle of self charging/discharging themselves on eachother that will eventually ruin both batteries, and can cause problems with the rest of the charging system.

Running one is fine, just make sure to insulate and tape up the bare leads from the second battery and secure them ( or remove them completely to stop the + from shorting out on the body/frame/metal)

I run one Optima Red Top. I don't recommend Optima's as it seems you don't always get what you pay for anymore..

[GISdood]

If the block heater alone isn't enough to get you running smoothly during the -40 snaps you get aroudn Winterpeg, and an in-line coolant heater isn't something you want to mess with, I found that a generic oil-pan heater made a huge difference for me. My Paj actually weathered its first winter in Prince George with ONLY the oil pan heater installed, as I hadn't yet found a suitable block heater for the 4M40.

[jessef]

Mmmm jfarsang I don't think it does because I know for a fact the battery up front is connected to the starter, alternator, glow plugs etc.

I will be opening it up again tomorrow during the day to find out where that cable goes and whether that second battery is even necessary at all. If they are supposed to be connected in parallel, the batteries are not even positioned in a way that makes that very easy. One is positioned long ways parallel with the side of the truck whereas the other one closest to the windshield is positioned long ways parallel with the back of the engine compartment so they're set up perpendicular to each other. Pretty hard to set up solid battery bars when the batteries aren't even positioned for it. Though I guess it wouldn't have to be solid bars, could be some thick gauge wire/cable I suppose.

Anyone have pictures of their battery setup?

EDIT: Looks like you were right after all jfarsang. The positive leads from each battery go down and connect in to a common larger bundle of cables. The rear one first connects to some cylinder near the rear of the engine compartment but then connects in with a large bundle of cables that the positive lead from the other battery connects in to.

The weird thing though is that the negative lead of the battery up front has a cable connecting to the side of the engine compartment (ground), but also has cables going to the little box that connects to the glow plugs, and another cable gong down somewhere that I can't see where it goes, whereas the negative lead on the rear battery only has a single cable connecting to the side of the engine compartment (ground).

If I can remember back to the last time I took any kind of science in grade 11, I guess having each negative lead connected to the same piece of metal on the engine compartment, and connecting in to the same bundle of cables is technically a parallel connection I suppose. It just doesn't appear that way at first glance.

So I've done myself in because I only bought 1 battery thinking the second one didn't do much and my roommate (source of a ride to town) is leaving after work today to go back home for 10 days...so I'm stuck without a vehicle in rural manitoba for a while hahahhaha. And there's no way I'm going to connect the new battery and the old battery because I will just screw up the new one.

I noticed on the positive lead on the front battery there is a small box connected right near the connector that says 80A on it, to me that kinda means 80Amp Hours I guess? The battery I bought doesn't say anything about what the Amps are, just the cold cranking amps...

That little 80A box is a fuse box for the alternator, glow plug control unit and solenoid.

[naossoan]

Shit well maybe I'll check that. I've recently discovered that my batteries are not charging. I bought brand new batteries and they died just recently.

I bought a multi meter and tested the voltage and it was only around 10v with the headlights turned on so I'm not getting power from my alternator. Whether the alternator is dead, I don't know. It could be something else. Still trying to figure out what it is...but I'm a vehicle newbie so....yeah.

[mrdueck]

Did you go to the CanTire at McGillivary on Saturday? I saw somebody walk in with a Japan battery and thought...hmmm must be sizing it up to a new one. I wanted to run over and chat but I didn't want to loose my place in line by the tires.
Rudy