Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

naossoan wrote:Hi all,

I recently had my Pajero at the shop to have a frost plug block heater installed, as well as the oil changed.

I could have sworn I was not having issues before I took it to the shop, but the shop said they didn't touch anything electrical so I don't know what the hell.

They couldn't have installed a frost plug into your ride "without touching anything electrical" - it's an electrical device, and any mechanic worth his diploma disconnects the battery before working on an engine, especially anything electrical on the engine.

Fuses, switches, and interlocks - start with those. Then power generation (the alternator first, then the batteries).

Well the block heater actually just plugs into a frost plug hole at the back of the engine case. There would be no need to disconnect any electrical stuff on the engine as far as i know to install it.

Anyway...so a shop out in BC quoted me this for an alternator. Doesn't seem right to me.

Just to clarify-the cost of the recon alternator is $325. We charge an additional $200 core charge which is refunded once we receive your old alternator back. So you are charged $525 with a $200 refund. Thanks

naossoan wrote:Well the block heater actually just plugs into a frost plug hole at the back of the engine case. There would be no need to disconnect any electrical stuff on the engine as far as i know to install it.

Anyway...so a shop out in BC quoted me this for an alternator. Doesn't seem right to me.

Just to clarify-the cost of the recon alternator is $325. We charge an additional $200 core charge which is refunded once we receive your old alternator back. So you are charged $525 with a $200 refund. Thanks

Definitely not right! I paid $180 to have mine reconditioned. Unless you're in a real hurry you can just take it out and have it reconditioned. If you are in a hurry you will have to spend more for a reconditioned alternator and trade yours in. I still don't think it should be this expensive and they shouldn't require a $200 deposit (unless you're shipping your back to them after the fact in which case I can see why they would do that).

naossoan wrote:Well the block heater actually just plugs into a frost plug hole at the back of the engine case. There would be no need to disconnect any electrical stuff on the engine as far as i know to install it.

Anyway...so a shop out in BC quoted me this for an alternator. Doesn't seem right to me.

Just to clarify-the cost of the recon alternator is $325. We charge an additional $200 core charge which is refunded once we receive your old alternator back. So you are charged $525 with a $200 refund. Thanks

Heater core is 120volt so not part of the truck electrics...however the first thing you should do when wrenching on anything is disconnect the battery. when I was young I ignored this and almost burned a tercel to the ground by shorting the electrical with a wrench.

I paid $225.00 for mine same shop as NXSKI

You don't need to disconnect your altenator from your battery to test the charging system all you need to do is connect you volt meter to the battery, When the engine is not running you should get around 12 volts from the battery when the engine is running you should get around 13 to 14 volts. If the voltage does not go up when running the engine then your altenator is probaly toast. Good luck Jay TardisDeli.

ok I'll see about taking my alternator out and having it reconditioned...I don't know who can do that around here though. I live in rural Manitoba!!

any alternator shop should be able to fix except the seal that drives the vacuum pump on the back everything else is normal stock parts.

Test it as Jay says (voltage at batteries, voltage starting, and voltage running high idle. If you do not ever get over 13 volts running time to look at a rebuild.

Close to winnipeg? Wilson auto electric can rebuild anything electrical for any vehicle.

Where is rural to you?

I live near Manitou...

Anyway, I just discovered something.

I took the fuse box cover off and discovered that the 100A fuse is blown. Would that be causing my battery charging and electrical issues? Perhaps the alternator is not at fault?

I haven't checked local auto shops, but can I get that fuse from basically anywhere, or do i have to order it special? It looks like it's a bolt-in one?

So, as it turns out that 100A fuse is important. I had a friend of mine pick up a replacement from NAPA, and a spare just in case. I plugged'er in, got the battery cables all hooked back up etc and boosted it with my toyota yaris...let it charge for a bit and drove it around.

All the accessories work. Locks, lights, etc when no keys are in it. Headlights are bright, only thing is the windshield wiper are a bit sluggish...

So I broke out the multi-meter and checked at the battery terminals. it's hovering around 12V with the headlights turned on. It's possible perhaps the alternator isn't cranking out as much juice as it's supposed to be? I'm not sure though.

All I know is it works properly now. The truck was running for maybe half an hour, so I guess the real test comes later tomorrow when I go try to start it up to see how it goes. If it's dead then maybe I have another issue, but I'll get to that when it comes up I guess.

Should I look at getting the alternator checked out sooner rather than later since it's only around 12v at the battery with the lights turned on? Also just found out these things don't have ABS as I slid down a patch of ice for about 15 metres lol

Thanks.

EDIT: Only thing I'm thinking is the batteries were RIGHT DEAD when I did this tonight so it may be better to judge once it's been driven around for a while to get the batteries fully charged again.

Average charging system will only charge a battery to about 80 percent, thats why i have AC plug in chargers in our vans to top up the batteries once in a while . You say you got a 12 volt reading from your battery, was that with the engine running or not ?

Good news about not having ABS....studies have shown you have an increased chance of an accident with ABS. Plus ABS just doesn't stop in snow.

What voltage no accessories on and engine running?

Cheers

thedjjack wrote:Good news about not having ABS....studies have shown you have an increased chance of an accident with ABS. Plus ABS just doesn't stop in snow.

What voltage no accessories on and engine running?

Cheers

I've heard many studies saying different things but personally I dislike ABS. Too much jerking on any slippery surface. It's impossible to come to a normal stop on wet leaves that's for sure! Same goes for traction control...

With the engine running and no accessories it was a bit over 13V at the batteries. I'll see if I can run the truck a bit over the next few days to try and charge up the batteries a bit to get a more accurate reading.

With the engine running + accessories it was either right on 12V on slightly above (I have a multimeter that has a dial/gauge, not a digital one) with the truck off the batteries themselves were showing around 11 I think but I'll have to reconfirm.

Like Jay said, your batteries aren't going to charge by running the van or driving it around. Just as it is for any vehicle, if a battery dies you can boost it to get where you want to go, but you would then want to trickle charge it as soon as possible. Also you can check the fluid level in the battery and if it's low and you have the option with your battery of topping it up, add some distilled water...it must be distilled. Do this first, then trickle charge.