Loosing coolant

[claude]

L400 4M40 is a pressurized closed looped system (no rad cap)

Coolant in the closed loop system is designed to absorb engine heat and transfer it to the radiator so that through convection and thermodynamics heat transfer may occur.

If you pour in foreign material into the expansion bottle, it goes into the engine and can clog the thermostat. Please do not put anything into the cooling system except for water, coolant and additive (Red Line WaterWetter).

Your radiator doesn't look good. In hindsight, it's a shame the dealer didn't replace it. If you trace the leak to the radiator, your cheapest/best option is to order a new radiator, have it shipped to you and install it.

changing the rad is easy
2 rad hoses
2 small transmission coolant hoses (bottom - use pliers on the hose clamps)
1 return line to the expansion bottle (brittle. be careful with it)

you'll loose most of the coolant from the engine. buy 2 jugs of coolant and mix them 50/50 with water

I'm heading up to whistler this weekend. If you need me to grab a radiator from you, I can pick one up from Mardy and leave it in whistler for you to pick up at my sister's place in Cheakamus or get a courier to take it up to you.

If you need more help Claude, just let me know. Cheers

Thanks so much Jesse,
I will let you know soon I will be able to do a test.
I really appreciate your help.
Cheers Claude

[psilosin]

Thats unfortunate Claude.

I don't think it matters what dealer you go with though, my vehicle has had a multitude of expensive and cripling problems with not even an offer of help from my dealer. The 'warranty' provided was a Lubrico warranty that covers nothing and is voided as soon as you change your own oil...

[jessef]

Then a friend told me about using white pepper, you know ~ the kind you find in places like the general store in Goldbridge? So I tried it. I turned the engine on with a constant stream of coolant pouring out the bottom of the van; poured roughly a quarter of the little canister of white pepper into the radiator and the leak stopped immediately and although it is a temporary measure it held for quite a while. I was quite impressed. This was in the cooling system of a Chevy 305, will it behave as well in a 4M40 motor? Don't know. If I developed a leak in the MLB and I was in Goldbridge and had white pepper on hand ~ I would do it if I couldn't find another remedy on hand.

With respect to Falco, I have to say something to this idea of using pepper as a stop leak.

Your friend's idea using pepper may have temporarily worked on your old Chevy but on an L400 it can do damage to the L400's 4M40 engine.

The pepper (expands when water hits it) will damage the water pump and clog the thermostat before it will reach the radiator.

Off topic. On an L300, pepper may work but bar's stop leak is a safer work around.

[thedjjack]

Given your location and need for a vehicle that is reliable I would:

1) find the leak so you make sure you fix it (in case it is an block failure head gasket, water pump, elbow, thermostat ext..)

2) replace the entire external cooling system: Radiator, all hoses, heater core

3) thermostat, water pump and expansion bottle (unless these are replaced as it looks they are)

When I bought my L300 (used) I took it to my cooling guy and they flushed the system for an hour and within the first 2 minutes the top radiator hose completely failed.

Make sure your coolant system is not leaking before you drive as motors/turbos are expensive (tows are much more affordable even if you need to get a Uhaul and get it out yourself).

[RichD]

Wow epic contributions from the mod team. ಠ_ಠ

[legionnair]

If it is the worst case senerio and the block is cracked you can stitch the crack, it is a tedious job but works very well. I have done it twice once on a detroit 50 series and once on a 6V92. For a coolant flush I use powdered dish washer soap, remove the thermostat and run the vehicle until up to operating temp. Then dump coolant/soap mix and top with water and run again, do this twice then put in new thermostat and top with new coolant flush complete.

Just some info to chew on

Dustin

[claude]

Update to the leak.
I got some help with one neighbor across the lake We raise the van a got it running for while. Remove the skid plate, crawl underneath checked all the hoses.. They seem to be fine . There was a drip off coolant coming from the bottom off the rad mainly on the passanger side. but we could not figure out exactly where the leak is. Due to a heavy snowstorm it was hard to keep everything dry (60cm of white stuff :( Had to snowplow the driveway twice)

[jessef]

Hi Claude
I sent you a pm

Strongly recommend to use your BCAA and have it towed to the shop of your choice.

If it ends up being the used heater core a 2nd time, have the dealer replace it this time with a new one.

[claude]

I want to make sure before I start to work on the van that is the bolts I have to take off beside the hoses in order to lift the radiator out.
Thanks
Claude

[jessef]

Yes

You have the transmission cooler lines at the bottom/back of the radiator as well. If you can find a pair of clean bolts to put into the rubber transmission hoses so the fluid doesn't leak out it will help.

[claude]

I was reading in the UK Delica that you can use AA batteries also to plug the transmission hoses

[thedjjack]

also you need to remove the fan shroud....

Since you have drained the coolant I would replace all the hoses with new.....

Not a fan of these new aluminum and plastic radiators we get these days...

Good luck with it

[claude]

also you need to remove the fan shroud....

Since you have drained the coolant I would replace all the hoses with new.....

Not a fan of these new aluminum and plastic radiators we get these days...

Good luck with it

Thanks for the tip.
Mardy sent me a new rad with new hoses. It still in transit I should get it by the week end

[thedjjack]

If you go into town take the the heater hoses and get new (any auto parts store sells it by the foot)....

[claude]

Update:
Just got the new radiator at the post office this afternoon and started working on removing the leaking one. As Rising Sun advertised to me the way they look after they vehicle before selling to their customer
"Here are lists we check/replace for our stock delicas.
'

1. Engine componenets
** valve adjustment, timing chain tension/loose adjustment, make sure no oil leaks( in case of L300, new timing belt/balancer belt/tensioners, 4 front oil seals replaced )
2. Transmission/4WD fuction
** If anything wrong, we replace sensor/switch, etc
3. steering/suspension/axle
** repack hub, and replace bearing if worn, all bushings/ball joints/CV boots/rack & pinion boot /links replaced if needed, wheel alignment, etc.
4. brake system
** flushing fluids, rotor machined or replaced, replace brake pads under 60% depth, all caliper checked
5. cooling system
** new radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, new hoses, new expansion bottle if needed.
** new temp guage/switch if needed
6. starting
** new battery if needed, new Hyundai glow plugs ( best in Canada ), check glow plug relay/wiring, alternator/starter checked, make sure initial idle good.
7. interior
** make sure no broken parts, all power groups are working
8. exterior
** We focus on importing clean/good shape cars, no worry.
9. all fluids replaced ( engine oil, coolant, transmission oil, transfer case oil, front/rear differential oil ), new air filter/new fuel filter,all new V-belt, a/c checked and refilled.
10. compliance
** new tires Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S ( upgrade available with extra cost ), new e-coded headlight, DRL, marker/reflectors
11. canadian version CD player/stereo
** it is not included in our listing price.
12. block heater, trailer hitch
** installation extra
They must have done no much of those checks on my Delica and on top they went cheap on the skid plate by using cable ties to hold it on the driver side. Good work Guys!!!.
Well, I install new rad and finely we can use our Delica again.