a/c recharge

Mitsubishi Delica L400 production commenced in 1994 -- After much anticipation, the L400 arrived on Canadian Soil in 2009!
User avatar
LeeHammy
Posts: 278
Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2010 9:05 pm
Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
Vehicle: 1994 Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8L Turbo
Location: Vancouver
Location: Vancouver

Re: a/c recharge

Post by LeeHammy »

Not being a dick just providing some corrections to satisfy my OCD.
verlioka wrote:...in order to measure freon pressure and recharge it...
Freon is a trade name for R-22. Yours takes R-134a which is not freon. Don't put freon in it.
Diver wrote:Best to take it to an air-con specialist to have it vacuumed and refilled with the correct amount.
I strongly agree agree however too add to that thought.. if you have lost your charge that means there is a leak and you will not be able to pull a good vacuum if you have a leak in the system. All pulling a vacuum on a leaky system will do is suck air (moisture) into your relatively dry and clean system. They should be locating the leak by pressure testing the system with dry nitrogen, repairing it, then pulling a good vacuum and recharging.
If they don't do this they will just be hoping too see you again every 6 months when your charge runs out again or when your metering device plugs up with broken down oil due to the acidic refrigerant caused by moisture in the system.
raffix wrote:what is the nominal temp for blowing AC at 20degrees?
like how cold is it suppose to be?
A typical AC system should have a 20 degree F TD across the coil. Less than this and there is an issue. So the hotter the interior the less cooling effect you will see however in time when the interior drops so will the supply. ex... 85 deg F interior 65 degree (or slightly less) supply temp. When the interior drops to a normal temp say 74 deg F so will the supply 54 deg F ish.
Mr. Flibble wrote:Also be aware that the compressor can fail in the Delica but keep turning. So, while you might have adequate pressure and the compressor turns over it won't be actually pumping any coolant.
It is called a compressor because it compresses vapor and is not designed to pump coolant as it is not a pump and pumping would suggest it is moving liquid. However if it is pumping liquid refrigerant this is because the evaporator is plugged and liquid is getting back to the compressor and this is one of the causes of the compressor failure that you speak of.
mac_stang wrote:Exactly what has happened with our l400, it has full pressure, but doesn't pump...been trying to find the $/time to replace the compressor for a year now :-(
Brad
Again.. I would hope your "compressor" isn't pumping because it wont for very long and if it is it then also wont be able to compress.
verlioka wrote:Couldn't wait to get it done by mechanic, and decided to try it myself. Went to Can.Tire and bought a kit with R12 refrigerant, red through the manual and did exactly what it says. The whole can went in and right pressure reflected on the gauge. It's nice and cool inside now. Hopefully there are no leaks in the system. Thank you everyone
R-12 was phased out and is illegal to produce(R-22 or "freon" is also being phased out) What you bought is a blended drop in replacement with similar characteristics as R-12 so the system that is designed for R-12 wont have too much trouble with the drop in you bought. However if you are hoping it doesn't leak and it was empty (which would be why you filled it) you might want to ask yourself how it became empty? A leak perhaps.... :?
legionnair wrote:He means the red trek R 12a its compatible with both 134 and 12. I believe it is just purified propane and a synthetic oil most likely ester based. Dustin
:-D
i like cheese
legionnair
Posts: 279
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 7:05 pm
Member's Photo Album: http://www.delica.ca/Photos/
Vehicle: delica L300
Location: van island

Re: a/c recharge

Post by legionnair »

all points above are true but if you want to find and fix the leak yourself shove in a can of redtek and start spraying around the connections, cores, valves. Spray mix is liter water, one tablespoon dish soap and one tablespoon corn syrup. A vacuum will tell you you have a leak the nitrogen will show you the leak on a static system. Me on an older R12 system I charge with redtek to operating pressure then run the system on Max AC. Then start spraying this is the best DIY way because you looking for a leak on a dynamic system.
Then I mark the location of the leak and if your a go getter you can empty the contents fix the leak or just use it until it stops working and then fix the leak.

Dustin
Measure it twice, cut once. Dam still cut wrong
Post Reply

Return to “L400 Technical”