Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Check the metal pipe that carries coolant to the high idle plunger. Apparently a lot of them are plugged with gunk or hard water build up, and do not let coolant flow to the wax plunger. I have not personally had this problem, but recall reading some others had this problem. I think there was even a post with pictures, but at the moment I can't recall who. Pretty good chance it was one of Jessie's (jfarsang) posts. If I have the time to search for it later, I'll post a link if I find it.

Jason

403delica wrote:Left it positive? what do you mean by that? yah im getting frustrated with mine because it starts like an dream but after the glow plugs shut off all hell breaks loose

By positive, I mean I closed the bleed screw while it was under pressure and bleeding fuel.

Brad.

Ahhhh got it thsnks!

@ Manitoba deli.... Yah that's what I have read too... Apparently it needs to go to and injection shop... Don't really want to rebuild the pump myself

For what I was referring to, it is simply taking the coolant pipe off the IP and cleaning it out, something the average handyman could do.

Jason

Well I'm a mechanic by trade... Can you send a pic of the particular one? Sorry I thought it was more involved :)

Will do. It will probably be late today though. I've got an engine sitting loose at the shop that I can take a good picture of, but I'm not heading there till afternoon.

Jason

Thanks manitoba deli! im getting frustrated with this thing i like things working properley and this seems to be bugging the snot out of me... maybe ill have to come see you it might be a smaller drive then to richmond!

Ok, here's where the first coolant line attaches to the IP with a banjo bolt And here is where the rubber coolant hose attaches to it Here is where the other coolant line attaches to the IP, also with banjo bolt And here is where the other rubber line would attach. Use a pair of hose pinchers on the two small rubber coolant lines, and remove them from the IP. Then try and blow through the steel lines, you should be able to blow in one, and about a tablespoon full of coolant will come out the other line. If you cannot blow through it, you have a clogged line, remove the banjo bolts holding the steel lines on, and remove, and clean out the steel lines. Use an ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one, or soak in some CLR. Hope you can follow this. If it is still unclear, let me know.

Jason

Jason thanks so much! ill give it a try in the next few days!

my other thought was that the input from the coolant temp sensor might somehow play a role?

The temp. sensor only controls how long the glow plugs stay on after the van has started. Up to 3 minutes depending on how cold the engine is. The idle is all mechanically controled. I'd be happy to look at it if you make it out this way, but realistically, it is about a 12hr drive for you either way, and the parts supply is much better to the west. Although I do have a fair bit of the common stuff on hand, and have robbed parts off of my own vehicles more than once in order to get someone else up and running.

Jason

Yah ill do my best to try and fix it... i have screwed arounf with the ignition timing for cold start and the cold start idle... does not seem to change much.... i was thinking IP front seal but that was done by coombs and would p[resent more as a starting issue... mine just screwes up after the glow plugs kick out.

Well here is an update... today it was plus 7 out and the van, as usual starts fine, after the glow plugs kicked out it still ran like crap even in the "warm" weather... now im confused as hell! would an IP front seal present as this problem? or more of a starting issue. I do have a hesitation when the engine is cold also. but when warm no smoke no nothing. Coolant level has not changed, same with oil.

thoughts??