Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Blueberry wrote:I've been in this same spot, except that mine came right apart, blew all the belts and overheated. I got very lucky in that no head damage resulted, but realize what can come of this if it fails. A new balancer is a couple of hundred $$. Good to replace the key and the bolt as well, and make sure it is torqued properly - not an easy task with an automatic.

Good luck

No joke, re-tightening the pulley on an auto was the toughest part of the whole job. After trying all the ghetto tricks to do it and wasting time I finally just spent the $20 for a pulley holder tool...well worth it!

On the 2.5 there is a flywheel inspection cover and a mate with a cold chisel can lock it.

psilosin wrote:

Blueberry wrote:I've been in this same spot, except that mine came right apart, blew all the belts and overheated. I got very lucky in that no head damage resulted, but realize what can come of this if it fails. A new balancer is a couple of hundred $$. Good to replace the key and the bolt as well, and make sure it is torqued properly - not an easy task with an automatic.

Good luck

No joke, re-tightening the pulley on an auto was the toughest part of the whole job. After trying all the ghetto tricks to do it and wasting time I finally just spent the $20 for a pulley holder tool...well worth it!

If by pulley holder tool, you mean a chain or strap type that goes around the pulley, be careful with that. I've used them before and have ended up wrecking a harmonic balancer. The problem is that those tools grip the outside of the pulley, while you're twisting on the crank with the torque wrench. What's between the two? The thin strip of rubber that dampens the oscillations. I've actually had a strap wrench hold the pulley while the torque wrench twisted the inner hub, tearing the rubber. Why the engineers have to have 100+ ft lbs of torque on these things is beyond me; there's lots of other ways of holding a bolt in place beyond torquing the crap out of it.

Definately get another pulley, your temp fix will disintegrate in a short time.

Rattlenbang wrote: If by pulley holder tool, you mean a chain or strap type that goes around the pulley, be careful with that. I've used them before and have ended up wrecking a harmonic balancer. The problem is that those tools grip the outside of the pulley, while you're twisting on the crank with the torque wrench. What's between the two? The thin strip of rubber that dampens the oscillations. I've actually had a strap wrench hold the pulley while the torque wrench twisted the inner hub, tearing the rubber. Why the engineers have to have 100+ ft lbs of torque on these things is beyond me; there's lots of other ways of holding a bolt in place beyond torquing the crap out of it.

any other way to mount the bolt without torque will cause slop in the pulley which will eventually wear the keyway or damage the end of the crankchaft. there is a reason every crank bolt on every vehicle has a torque rating.

yojimbo wrote:On the 2.5 there is a flywheel inspection cover and a mate with a cold chisel can lock it.

x10 on this, takes two minutes to access the flywheel and lock it in place with a chisel.

Rattlenbang wrote:

psilosin wrote:

Blueberry wrote:I've been in this same spot, except that mine came right apart, blew all the belts and overheated. I got very lucky in that no head damage resulted, but realize what can come of this if it fails. A new balancer is a couple of hundred $$. Good to replace the key and the bolt as well, and make sure it is torqued properly - not an easy task with an automatic.

Good luck

No joke, re-tightening the pulley on an auto was the toughest part of the whole job. After trying all the ghetto tricks to do it and wasting time I finally just spent the $20 for a pulley holder tool...well worth it!

If by pulley holder tool, you mean a chain or strap type that goes around the pulley, be careful with that. I've used them before and have ended up wrecking a harmonic balancer. The problem is that those tools grip the outside of the pulley, while you're twisting on the crank with the torque wrench. What's between the two? The thin strip of rubber that dampens the oscillations. I've actually had a strap wrench hold the pulley while the torque wrench twisted the inner hub, tearing the rubber. Why the engineers have to have 100+ ft lbs of torque on these things is beyond me; there's lots of other ways of holding a bolt in place beyond torquing the crap out of it.

The tool is like this. It has two pins that fit into the two holes in the crank pulley. It is what the pulley is designed for...but a universal tool is much cheaper and more useful than buying the specific mitsubishi tool.

Damn, much better that what I had. So that's what they expect you to use...

Thanks to everyones input I am once again back on the road!
The Temp repair lasted for about a week...when I took everything apart again to replace the Temp repair I was shocked to see one of the steel screws I used to pin the alt pulley to the crank pulley was gone!!Not sure if the nut backed off or it sheared!!
Luckly no damage appears to have happened except the timing cover is a wee bit damaged....
It looks like the same Harmonic balancer is in a automatic and a standard as I took the balancer from the my spares delica an auto and it fit perfectly on my standard....
Thanks again!!