and now I'm overheating...

ChuckBlack · Post by **ChuckBlack** » Thu Nov 10, 2016 8:19 pm

Having a new rad makes a big difference. Old radiators usually build scaling within the core (even after flushing it...Sometime will create more problems after flushing since the scaling will not get flushed and flow around and clogging other parts of the cooling system) and does not transfer heat as normally as it should, eventually the fins do also suffers by being bent by rocks, road debris etc. Another aspect of mounting a new rad are that new rads, are build much better and lighter. Not that being lighter makes a huge difference but it's always a good thing!

Have you have your timing belt done recently? I'm asking since most TB kit comes with a new Water Pump. The water pump is crucial as it will determine the coolant flow!!! At idle, coolant flow is slow, as you rev UP, so does the coolant flow. These engine are usually pretty tough. Many manufactures uses this very simple engine design as they are very versatile and simple. Preventive maintenance as well as regular oil changes are a must to keep the owners happy!

IF you wanna know if your wiring works an easy test is to bypass the sensor and take a test lead and butt connect the two wire together off the sensor. Check the temp gauge should go way up in no time. (Do this for a brief second as you do not want to toast the wires.) If this works remove the sensor and check the resistance when cold, room temp and high temp (AS recommended by OEM manual) It is underline in the engine electrical manual on this forum.

Good luck!

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Fri Nov 11, 2016 5:41 am

Hey Chuck, trust me if I had the extra 300 bucks, I wouldn't even be screwing around with my old Rad. I put a ton of TLC into this Rad so hopefully it'll love me back. I can't test the sensor right now because I recently found my Multimeter to be broken

so, I need to operate on the "estimated guess" style of Diagnostic Repairs

I feel that since the gauge shot WAY up on a very cold engine, the sensor being bad is a reasonable call. The sensor is about the same price as the Multimeter...so I'm gonna go with that sensor and see what happens. Next after that will be a new MM.
At this point I've gotten quite good at taking the Rad out...putting a new one in will be a breeze

Watch out for those Pistachio's....

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Fri Nov 11, 2016 5:43 am

Oh and yes...Timing belt and balancing belt done at 170,000 Km. Almost 174 on the clock now, and bought it with 173 on it. I thought about the water pump being bad. It would be weeping if bad correct?

ChuckBlack · Post by **ChuckBlack** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:18 am

Not always. It would be leaking if the seal is wearing out. I've seen WP propeller wears so bad and still no leak. If the TB was done at 170k I assume it was done as well. Can you get a hold of whoever did it? Previous owners?

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 9:51 am

Hey Chuck, no getting ahold of any previous owners. I'm the first person who was not a reseller to own the van since Japan. Further diagnostic procedures seem to be un necessary because.......SHE"S RUNNING ON THE ROAD!

I just got back from a good jog around the block after an hour of idling in the driveway under supervision. Let me tell you what happened, so as I said before I had un-plugged the Temp sensor plug on the block because the gauge was reading over heating on a very cold block. I came inside and ordered an new sensor from the Philippines and left it at that. Well this morning I re-connected the plug and sure as shite, it rose up to the top of the gauge. Unplug it, watch the needle fall and then plugged it back in and the needle still fell

and then the needle corrected itself at the bottom of normal range...

exactly where it should have been for the amount of time It had been running. Let it run for an hour with the heat (front and back) blasting, no overheating. The needle stayed right on the normal line. I took it out for a drive (so happy to do that btw..) and even pulling up hills and sustained speed of 50 mph, the needle only settled into low middle normal.
I came back home, got out and did a little dance. I'm cautiously optimistic here, we're planning to take it up to Asheville NC over Thanksgiving (me and the wife's anniversary..) so I'm going to be putting trust in the old girl not to get us stuck. It's obviously an electrical issue here. I'll test the sensor next when I get a multimeter, and then check the plug end as well. one or the other is on it's way to failure.
Either way I have a spare sensor on the way.

Boy does it need an alignment. I remember seeing alignment specs somewhere (maybe the moduk site..) has anyone bright a printed out spec sheet to an alignment shop and had them do it?

lrp374 · Post by **lrp374** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:22 pm

Try this for alignment:( sorry to highjack the post ) viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17331&p=129650&hili ... nt#p129650

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:35 pm

Thanks! That's what I was looking for.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 5:05 pm

Interesting development, now she will not start. The GP relay does a fast double click. Not the one.....then two it was doing the day before. Going to buy a multimeter tomorrow so I can start tracking it down. I haven't tried applying 12V to the GP rail yet, or gotten to look at the fusible links but I feel the change in duration of the clicks is significant.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Sun Nov 20, 2016 7:06 pm

The 2-pin temperature sensor on the head is actually two sensors in one package, and they drive the temperature gauge and the glow plug ECU. It sounds like your old sensor was flaky, temporarily fixed itself, and has now broken again. Your new sensor should fix both problems.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Mon Nov 21, 2016 5:47 am

Hey Growlerbearnz, I had read that the temp sensor that I was originally messing with was involved in the operation of the GP's, and was hoping that was the issue. My new sensor won't arrive till mid week at the earliest so I think that puts me out of the Delica for my trip.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Nov 21, 2016 1:31 pm

You could always use a jumper lead on the glow plug rail for about 10 seconds whenever starting from cold. Though that would get a little tiresome, I guess

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Mon Nov 21, 2016 7:50 pm

I'm thinking that might be the way I go for the trip because my truck is not ready to take up the slack

, so it's a good thing that I actually got her to start today!

I waited till about 4 in the afternoon and she turned over after a couple of cranks. I let her warm up an then took the kids out for ride to see how she was doing. Once she's warm I have no problem starting her again.
Unfortunately I think my hand-throttle is broken because I cannot get it to lock at a particular RPM. I can pull it out fine, but any turning does not retain a throttle speed.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Mon Nov 28, 2016 9:06 am

Welp..

The Delica didn't make it to Asheville with us. I couldn't get her to start even with 12V to the GP rail. The clicking is now gone completely. I did get the new Temp Sensor in the mail this morning, and have already installed it with no change. I was lucky to get the F350 up and running (new belts, thermo, upper rad hose and fresh coolant..) so we could go on the trip. I've got no spare time to dive into her further today, but i'm looking in the relay's direction as the problem. She has a strong battery and plenty of crank, just no kick over.
Could I have fried something trying the 12v trick? Time to start calling around for prices and availability on GP relay's.

Morgonzo · Post by **Morgonzo** » Mon Nov 28, 2016 11:45 am

I got the "I just spent some money on my Delica blues.."

I'm fresh from buying a new Klien tools Multimeter, and found a used GP relay for 45 bucks on Ebay. I'm still planning on testing the current one..(electrical pun...

) but at $132USD for a new one, it seemed like a cheap backup (if it's good).

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Nov 28, 2016 1:06 pm

Using a jumper lead on the glowplug rail can't hurt the relays or computer. It can burn out the glowplugs if you leave it connected for too long though- you should be trying to copy what the glowplug computer does, IE 5-10 seconds of power, then start immediately.