pyro gauge - why do we need one?

[Green1]

well it would solve the second issue (assuming you were very careful at cleaning out the system after you drill) however I wouldn't consider that a solution to making anything "easier"!

[Profister]

As for me it does not matter where exactly you mount the probe as far as you are aware of the temp difference pre- vs. post-turbo. You just need to get used to the numbers and how they change in different conditions.

[Fishtank]

As for me it does not matter where exactly you mount the probe as far as you are aware of the temp difference pre- vs. post-turbo. You just need to get used to the numbers and how they change in different conditions.

Do you have a range on the numbers we should see both pre & post-turbo?

[Mephisto]

I would agree with the higher pressures, I simply didn't want to speculate and pass it on. I would also say head design is a major factor if I was to speculate more. In our case having the intake and exhaust passages on the same side of the head and a pre-chamber on the other side means there are many thin spots as well as different materials in the combustion chamber (expanding at different rates) and perhaps the coolant passages can't be placed optimally because of this.
If no one noticed myself and others mention putting the probe in the EGR block off plate, I would say that is the best and easiest way to install a pyro. Would you rather drill and tap in the vehicle or on a seperate piece that is easily clamped in a vice?? No possibility of metal shavings and easier to drill and tap. If you don't want to go this route, drill and tap the manifold while the engine is running, even better if the rpms are higher than idle, this creates a positive pressure in your manifold that effectively pushes any metal chips out. I know it sounds scary, but, I worked at a turbo shop for years and have installed hundreds in this manner and never hurt a turbo. It does get hot though, lol.
I don't like to hold sustained EGTs higher than 1200 but will let it spike to 1300 for a minute or so. That's if I'm in a hurry or towing, if Im being nice to it I dont like going over 1100. More so because of efficiency reasons than safety. I have a big intercooler on mine, it helps alot, I also have a much bigger turbo and run alot more boost. Bigger turbo = more efficient = lower intake temps, more boost = more air = cooler. The more boost thing only applies if your turbo is bigger, the stock turbo is incredibly small, therfor it gets inefficient and heats up the charged air if you are running boost levels past its sweet spot.

[Drumster]

... I also have a much bigger turbo and run alot more boost. Bigger turbo = more efficient = lower intake temps, more boost = more air = cooler. The more boost thing only applies if your turbo is bigger, the stock turbo is incredibly small, therfor it gets inefficient and heats up the charged air if you are running boost levels past its sweet spot.

Hi Mephisto, I'm interested in knowing how to replace a stock L400 turbo with something bigger, as well as a larger I/C. This is for the "projects" list and would not be intended to increase power; but for running cooler, getting a more complete burn and to extend engine life. How did you fit a larger turbo to your L300 in terms of knowing it would be compatible etc? How did you select your new turbo and where did you get it?
Thanks.

[Mephisto]

I haven't taken a turbo off of a 4M40 yet, soon though, I hope. I have a pajero, same engine as an L300 (4D56), I took off the turbo, pulled the turbo apart and gave it to my friend at ADP distributing (turbo warehouse plus manufacturing and repair) over in port kells. We reprofiled the compressor housing to fit a bigger wheel and so that way nothing about the outer appearance of the turbo is different, bolts up the way it used to. The cartridge for that turbo limited the size wheel we could put in, so hopefully the L400 will have a bigger cartridge, but, that's doughtfull. Now I don't know how much room is up front on the L400, but, I would suggest a front mount intercooler. I just think engine bay temps get too hot for a topmount, I had huge heatsoak issues with mine after I cranked the boost and fuel that is until I made a front mount.
The nice thing about diesels is that more performance usually means more efficiency as well, so a bigger intercooler gives power increases as well as economy increases and of course longevity with the cooler intake temps as well. That is of course if you don't have a heavy foot, lol, like me. More boost, as I said previously can cool your EGTs, as long as your turbo isn't heating your intake charge too much. More boost also ensures a better environment to burn your fuel more completely. By simply increasing boost you won't feel too much of a performance gain (of course there will be some) you need more fuel to make more power an dto help spin your turbo. I do suggest even if you aren't looking for more power to turn the fuel up a little bit if you increase boost, it is nice to have that reserrve. Plenty of intercoolers are available on the internet, you will just need someone to build you the pipes, unless you can. You could always go to a shop, I know PDR or kineticmotorsport.com could do it for you. They are affiliated with ADP so it's easy for them, otherwise Forcefed does nice turbo set ups, Killer Customs, there are tons of shops out there. I would offer, but I'm feeling swamped with work and school, finals are coming up in a few weeks, not to mention my friends that want things built. Good luck and keep us posted, I'll write something up when I get a chance to work on a 4M40. I think my friend is buying an L400 this week, if I make a front mount for it I will jig the pipes and make a kit available to anyone on the forum. That is of course if there is room, lol. As I said though, that will probably be awhile before I get the chance to actually build something.

[Mephisto]

Disclaimer, if you don't know what you are doing do not touch your boost or fuel. A Pyrometer is an important thing for knowing what effect your mods have on your engine, keep it whithin the saftey margin. LOL, now I sound like a fuddy duddy telling people not to mess with stuff. I hate preaching.

[Drumster]

Disclaimer, if you don't know what you are doing do not touch your boost or fuel. A Pyrometer is an important thing for knowing what effect your mods have on your engine, keep it whithin the saftey margin. LOL, now I sound like a fuddy duddy telling people not to mess with stuff. I hate preaching.

Very cool. I appreciate all the info. I'm not far from Pt Kells so maybe I'll pop over to ADP and talk to them. I've read over at the Aus Delica site about putting in a larger or maybe even a liquid-cooled I/C.

Basically, right now, I'm considering 2.5" exhaust, bigger Turbo, more effective I/C, pyro gauge.... and of course blanking the EGR. I understand that some folks leave the EGR valve alone unless there's a black smoke issue. I'm not mechanically trained but I am mechanically inclined and personally, the idea of dumping exhaust gases & particulate matter back into an engine for any reason does not make sense for anyone interested in engine longevity. Maybe if I were an engine re-builder I'd see it differently.

I've also bought Evans NPG+ waterless coolant, http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgben1.htm which I'll post in a new thread.

[fishslapper]

Another very important reason why i would put it post-turbo is that if you have a catastrophic failure of your egt probe, it doesn't also take the turbo with it.

[Mephisto]

You would probably get better info at PDR/Kinetic, it's next door to ADP. They have much more hands on experience with modding vehicles and as I said they are affiliated with ADP, in fact ADP is their parent company. So any actual turbo work goes through ADP regardless, the service at ADP may be less helpfull, they deal more with big rigs and equipment, those guys go through turbos alot faster than we do and they cost alot more. I used to work at Kinetic, just say it has a similar engine to Matts Pajero if they want to know about the engine. Mark Wilson is knowledgeable about cummins, Dave is a Ford diesel freak, Dan does imports but is a gasser guy. Dan specializes in DSMs though so he is very familiar with mitsubishi products, just not up on the diesels. So, if they can mix thier info you'll get good results, oh ya, Scott the welder does some of the nicest tig welds around (I taught him). Good guys, cool shop. Although you may get some of the usual flack from the domestic guys, just ignore it, they think my truck is pretty cool. Dave has a wicked first gen bronco with a twin turbo 4BT (four cylinder cummins) in it, it's freakin cool and fast. If you want to get in good with him ask him about his bronco, lol.
Fishslapper, if you read my earlier posts, I addressed the pyro failure subject, it's rare in a gas engine so even more unlikely in a diesel, but, we are all entitled to our own opinions.
Cheers

[Drumster]

I've made notes and will definitely go see those guys when my beast arrives. Thanks!

[Airwick]

I there,
I picked up of these Auber 1813 (~85 bucks shipped, including probe)
I am now trying to figure out where I am going to mount it... I am thinking it will go where the drink currently is as it is mostly useless and in front of the stereo anyways... or maybe just on top of the steering column but the back of it is going to be pretty ugly with the wires and all...

I do have one issue with the probe though: the wires are going to be at least a couple feet short. Are there any serious issues I should know about with extending the thermocouple wires? My understanding is that as long as I use the same wire and I have really good connections it should work but I am not much of a sparky so I would appreciate some input before I go and do this...
The other option I thought off was to wedge the gage between the handbrake housing and the center console. It's not really easily visible while driving but I expect that a glance once in a while when I think I am pushing it a bit should be good enough, how often do you need to look at yours?

There is always the option to hook up a warning buzzer too (maybe it can even be tapped into the keys/headlights on buzzer, has anyone done that)?

Thanks,

[jessef]

Disclaimer, if you don't know what you are doing do not touch your boost or fuel. A Pyrometer is an important thing for knowing what effect your mods have on your engine, keep it whithin the saftey margin. LOL, now I sound like a fuddy duddy telling people not to mess with stuff. I hate preaching.

Very cool. I appreciate all the info. I'm not far from Pt Kells so maybe I'll pop over to ADP and talk to them. I've read over at the Aus Delica site about putting in a larger or maybe even a liquid-cooled I/C.

Basically, right now, I'm considering 2.5" exhaust, bigger Turbo, more effective I/C, pyro gauge.... and of course blanking the EGR. I understand that some folks leave the EGR valve alone unless there's a black smoke issue. I'm not mechanically trained but I am mechanically inclined and personally, the idea of dumping exhaust gases & particulate matter back into an engine for any reason does not make sense for anyone interested in engine longevity. Maybe if I were an engine re-builder I'd see it differently.

I've also bought Evans NPG+ waterless coolant, http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgben1.htm which I'll post in a new thread.

For the L400 you want at least a 2.5 if not 3" full exhaust from the turbo back.

If you're going to pay a shop to put a larger IC/turbo, personally I would put that cost into either propane injection or just leave it in the bank for diesel.

If you have a money tree, then do it. Otherwise, there are better ways to spend $ on an L400.

Enjoy it when you get it.

ps. It as tons of power as is. When you put the 3" exhaust and up the boost/fuel, you may not want more power at the cost of an arm and a leg shop install.