Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

can you post a simple schematic ? Does the solinoid just go between the batteries on the positive side?

http://www.powerstream.com/z/iso-inst.png

Found this schematic online , it seems to make sense

If using a solinoid would it replace the isolator shown? and does it also come with a bypass switch or is that a seperate function wired in with additional stuff?

Should I sign up for an electronics for dummies course?

Don't answer that , I know the answer

Hey Rik,

dunno bout using a solenoid, however battery isolators are simple enough.
alternator wire goes to the middle, starter battery on left, house on right.

just finished wiring in two batteries and a cheapo cantire 1000w sine wave inverter.
made custom wires, #1 wire from the alternator and #2 to the inverter.
also see the 300 amp fuse I plan to bolt onto battery + terminal to inverter.

ok going back out to wire in the fridge and bed lights....

did you get the ladder on??
cheers colby

Thanks Colby pictures are everything.!!!
Ladder fits great, had to get my struts regassed tho, but I expected that.
I think i may go with the simpler isolator as I have pretty new AGM batteries anyways.

the isolator we used is rated for 90 amps and available at cantire for $45

Rik, did you need to cut the spoiler to fit the ladder?

cobsweb wrote: Rik, did you need to cut the spoiler to fit the ladder?

I used a 1 1/2" sanding drum to make 2 small notches about 8mm deep on the inside edge. I'll post a pic later.

As for the isolator ,I did get to spend around 4 weeks skiing this winter and at 10 below my deli did need everything she had to get started. So I think I'm going to try to go with a plan that lets me use both batteries for starting when I need it as TardisDeli suggested.

Reading the manual for the isolator: Note the warning about "some Mitsubishi alternators" with "internal voltage sensing".

Based on Jay's sketch, I made a digital diagram with annotations (edit: updated per Jay's comments):

Rich has done a beauitful job on cleaning up my drawing. But the solenoid should be at least 275 Amps for starting (not 100A as in the above diagram). Cheers, Jay TardisDeli.

Rich has done a beauitful job on cleaning up my drawing. But the solenoid should be at least 275 Amps for starting (not 100A as in the above diagram). Cheers, Jay TardisDeli.

Hmm yes I sized the solenoid based on the charge circuit (85A) but you are correct that when cranking the starter from both batteries in Dual we'd typically have half of the cranking load across the solenoid, and potentially all of it in Boost mode. So a 300A would be ideal.

Note: Updated drawing above.

Thanks Rich and Tardis

I think I can source the parts here in Vic , I'll probably have a question or two once I get it all together.
Great drawing Rich that belongs in the wiki archive

cheers

(EDIT: updated AGAIN with latest photos, schematic, deets)

Okay so I have been working on this in the past two weeks and here is where I'm at:
* Automatic Isolator Relay/Charge Controller
- Automatic combine when charging
- starter isolation so you don't blow your inverter (triggered by ignition switch)
* Main Power Switch (Manual Override for emergency starts)tart
* dedicated cabinet behind the battery compartment

Blue Sea Add A Battery Kit
First test of the automatic isolator:
- start the truck, voltage goes up to 13V (alternator is spinning). Not quite high enough to trigger the relay.
- turned up throttle to 2K RPM, voltage increases to 14V (alternator is spinning FASTER). 30 seconds later, the relay actuates and the Combined light goes on. Both batteries are charging.
- turned off engine. 30 seconds later, the relay opens and the batteries are isolated again.
I like this photo set because its sort of like proof that your primary school math teacher didn't lie. (Note: this was taken with the engine off. The automatic isolator is open.) When you manually combine the batteries, you end up with the average of the two cell's voltage. TO DO LIST:
- add digital voltmeter
- install a marine grade 12V power point (always on, accessory battery)
- add an Anderson SB connector for external jump starts
- wire a LED to top of cabinet (flush mounted) to indicate combine mode (can see from driver's seat)

Nice work Rich, when you put it together can you post part #s as well?
I haven't done anything with mine but surf a bit for parts.
probably be well into July before I give it go. I'm using my inverter now to blast my microwave for lunch every now and again and the voltmeter on it drops to 10.5 when I'm pulling 900watts so I definately want to get it rewired before any road trips.

Question for the wise gallery...... If I'm isolating my starting battery is it still important to have matching batteries?

cheers

Nice job Rich! Looking forward to see your set-up once its done. I went with this system: http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system.html It gets used by many overland camper guys in Europe. Will see how it holds up.

I have a question about Inverters... I seem to remember reading somewhere here that having your Inverter always "online" that the starting of the vehicle is harmfull to the Inverter. Does anyone remember reading this or have a comment? I'm thinking about putting in an inline power connection switch which I saw at the boat supply shop near my work... I'm wondering if this is a good idea or whether it will produce the same effect when I 'throw' the switch. The switch is heavy duty one which you turn and a metal bar rotates to make the connection.

Cheers

dfnder wrote:I have a question about Inverters... I seem to remember reading somewhere here that having your Inverter always "online" that the starting of the vehicle is harmfull to the Inverter. Does anyone remember reading this or have a comment? I'm thinking about putting in an inline power connection switch which I saw at the boat supply shop near my work... I'm wondering if this is a good idea or whether it will produce the same effect when I 'throw' the switch. The switch is heavy duty one which you turn and a metal bar rotates to make the connection.

Cheers

yes that is right, and why i went with a starter isolation relay.