Intercooler, because why not.

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 3:29 pm

takeuchi wrote:The turbo outlet/manifold inlet are 2inch?

Ehhh, no. The turbo and inlet stub are 1.5" diameter (UPDATE:Maybe not all of them. Mine have a 1.5" reducer and it fits just fine, but later in this thread a 1.75" outlet shows up. Maybe measure yours before buying things.) . Which is fine when it's a 4" hop from the turbo to the inlet manifold, but longer plumbing needs larger pipes to avoid strangling the flow. 2" was the largest I could fit between the chassis and radiator, so that's what I used. It seems adequate- there's very little turbo lag (which you'd get if the pipes were too large), and it's not starving for air at higher revs. Oh and my intercooler has 2" inlets.

I used a 1.5" - 2" elbow at the turbo like this one :https://www.amazon.com/1-5-38mm-Silicon ... B015PZKIGA

: reducer.PNG (208.13 KiB) Viewed 11244 times

...and made my own 2" inlet stub, because the old one was aimed the wrong way and I figured I might as well make the new one 2" to match the new plumbing.

takeuchi · Post by **takeuchi** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 4:03 pm

Hmm, the smallest a2w intercooler I can find with the ports on the same size is 2.5".

Would it be better to have 2.5" piping reduced at the turbo and at the inlet OR have 1.5" piping and expand and reduce right at the intercooler?

takeuchi · Post by **takeuchi** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 5:42 pm

I suppose the 1.5" piping will be fine after watching this:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-t ... eo.515062/

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 6:12 pm

The thread referenced in that video shows doesn't have a chart for 1.5" pipe. The cross sectional area of a 1.5" pipe is 1.77 square inches, which at 300cfm (our engine's peak flow rate) is Mach 0.37- over the mach .35 recommended limit.

I would stick to 2" as much as possible, with reducers/expanders at the turbo and intercooler.

takeuchi · Post by **takeuchi** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 6:28 pm

Growlerbearnz wrote:The thread referenced in that video shows doesn't have a chart for 1.5" pipe. The cross sectional area of a 1.5" pipe is 1.77 square inches, which at 300cfm (our engine's peak flow rate) is Mach 0.37- over the mach .35 recommended limit.

I would stick to 2" as much as possible, with reducers/expanders at the turbo and intercooler.

Awesome! Definitely owe you some bourbon now. Are you near Auckland at all?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Fri Jun 08, 2018 8:43 pm

takeuchi wrote:Are you near Auckland at all?

LOL quite. Kingsland. 10 minutes walk from Eden Park, 10 minutes from Downtown. But there's no need for the Bourbon, honestly. This is all great fun, and if I wasn't calculating flow rates in Delica intercooler pipes I'd be bored and starting trouble somewhere

Yobbo · Post by **Yobbo** » Thu Jun 14, 2018 10:56 am

Hi Growlerbeanz!

I'm an L300 owner from the UK and have been reading this thread with interest.

I wonder if you might be able to post some more pics from the turbo area, I'm quite keen to see the connections and space etc!

Also can you recall what diameter the turbo compressor outlet pipe is?

Many thanks
Dave

joebillhill · Post by **joebillhill** » Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:29 pm

I wonder if you might be able to post some more pics from the turbo area, I'm quite keen to see the connections and space etc!

X2

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Thu Jun 14, 2018 11:44 pm

Yobbo wrote:I wonder if you might be able to post some more pics from the turbo area, I'm quite keen to see the connections and space etc!

Also can you recall what diameter the turbo compressor outlet pipe is?

It's *super* tight in there, the picture in the first post is probably the best one, but I'll see if I can get a photo from below. There's not much room for a camera though.

Turbo outlet (and intake inlet) is 1.5" diameter as discussed above (UPDATE: except on your engine, where it's 1.75" fro some reason.).

Yobbo · Post by **Yobbo** » Fri Jun 15, 2018 6:09 am

Growlerbearnz wrote:
Yobbo wrote:I wonder if you might be able to post some more pics from the turbo area, I'm quite keen to see the connections and space etc!

Also can you recall what diameter the turbo compressor outlet pipe is?
It's *super* tight in there, the picture in the first post is probably the best one, but I'll see if I can get a photo from below. There's not much room for a camera though.

Turbo outlet (and intake inlet) is 1.5" diameter as discussed above.

Thanks, it would be good to see your piping work a bit clearer.
I had a forgetful moment regards the pipe diameter because I'd bought a replacement hose for the turbo a while ago, I also usually think in metric terms haha... 1.5" = 38mm duhhh...

The EGR was blanked when I bought my van so never paid attention to it but looking at blanking plate, it is ideal for mounting an EGT probe!
(Later on after my discovery) I found this on a different forum - http://delicaforum.com/index.php?thread ... -videos.7/)

In regards to your boost valve did you mount the probe on inlet/intake side?

Thanks
Dave

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Sun Jun 17, 2018 5:18 pm

Yobbo wrote:In regards to your boost valve did you mount the probe on inlet/intake side?

I don't understand this one. Boost valve? Probe?

Boost gauge? Mechanical, with a tee on the boost line going to the injection pump. Boost blowoff/relief valve deleted, replaced with a brass plug from the plumbing shop (it's BSP thread). EGT probe? In the EGR blanking plate, which is before the turbo.

Pipework from behind and below, camera between torsion bar and exhaust pipe. Black silicone pipe is the 1.5"-2" 90 degree outlet reducer. Top left is the new 2" inlet manifold stub, which aims forwards and out about 30 degrees from vertical.

: IMG_20180618_112730.jpg (309.71 KiB) Viewed 11157 times

Turbo from below, camera just behind alternator, below oil filter. Turbo outlet reducer is black. Blue silicone sleeve over the 2" pipe going to the intercooler. Black silicone pipe with "redline" printed on it is the pipe coming from the intercooler to the inlet stub:

: IMG_20180618_112752.jpg (199 KiB) Viewed 11157 times

Pipework from behind and above, camera wedged between inlet manifold and engine cover. Outlet reducer is fairly obvious, and you can see how the inlet pipe tucks under the turbo outlet. Ugly weld on the inlet stub that's on the back where no-one will ever see it. Nice new turbo is shamefully rusty, might have to clean that up.

: IMG_20180618_113043.jpg (253.35 KiB) Viewed 11157 times

I can't get the camera anywhere useful in front of the turbo- it's just too tight in there, and I'm not unbolting the drivers side engine cover today.

Yobbo · Post by **Yobbo** » Mon Jun 18, 2018 8:47 am

That's awesome!

Thank you for posting these pics and YES I did mean boost gauge... Must have had a few beers before posting!

I'm also very interested in the BOV delete, if you could provide a pic of that that would be great, I was not aware that this engine had such a thing being a diesel? You pretty much don't want to drop the boost on diesel ever.

Instead of fabricating a new intake stub I might consider inverting it but we'll see if the seat will get in the way of that once I've got a 90 degree silicone pipe on it!

I've found an ideal candidate for an intercooler in the Toyota Avensis D-4D which has side inlet/outlet pipes has a connection for a boost gauge, and is about 12"x12"x4" so should fit neatly in front of the A/C fan which the previous owner converted into a manual fan for the radiator.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Avens ... SwzDBbBVIS

Another FMIC option was the Toyota MR2 SW20 stock IC as that too had side mounted pipes and was relatively small.

Cheers
Dave

Post by **Growlerbearnz** » Mon Jun 18, 2018 3:06 pm

Yobbo wrote:That's awesome!
I'm also very interested in the BOV delete, if you could provide a pic of that that would be great, I was not aware that this engine had such a thing being a diesel? You pretty much don't want to drop the boost on diesel ever.

It's not really a BOV, more an overpressure relief valve for emergencies. I think it's there to prevent you from powering up a hill with a jammed-closed wastegate, feeding the engine 20psi of superheated intake air, which would hole a piston pretty quickly. It's certainly not there to protect the intake manifold (later engines run 25psi just fine- but they have variable injection timing and an intercooler so can cope with hot air). It doesn't prevent the turbo from overspeeding either- it's after the turbo, and venting air after the turbo makes it spin *faster*. It opens at about 12psi (unless it's old and tired, then it opens earlier) and makes a farting noise. It has to be modified or deleted if you want more boost.

It's the green-threaded thing in the first picture, replaced with the brass thing in the second:

: ReliefValve.JPG (82.92 KiB) Viewed 11137 times

: PLug.jpg (36.49 KiB) Viewed 11137 times

Yobbo wrote:Instead of fabricating a new intake stub I might consider inverting it but we'll see if the seat will get in the way of that once I've got a 90 degree silicone pipe on it!

I don't like your chances, it's *really* tight under there.

That Avensis intercooler looks good!

Yobbo · Post by **Yobbo** » Tue Jun 19, 2018 5:32 am

Ahh yes, that thing...

Not sure how you'd go about modifying it, but looks easy enough to remove and essentially blank - no problem getting BSP fittings over here of course!
Tallying up the prices to get the gear for these mods is starting to become a tad more expensive than I thought haha!

Yobbo · Post by **Yobbo** » Thu Jul 05, 2018 2:52 pm

I actually found my intake stub and turbo inlet diameter to be 44/45mm(1.75") rather than 38mm (1.5").

I tried to fit the 1.5" hose I'd bought but it was too much of a stretch, well it MAY have fit with hot water soaking, plus lube, and lots of swearing but in past experience its best to get within 1-2mm of the pipe size.

Manufacturing an intake stub will be the biggest challenge, I need the pipe to come out at approx. 135 degrees relative to the mounting flange's bolt hole alignment... And I genuinely don't believe my idea to invert the original intake pipe 180 degrees will yield any success.