Problems starting in the morning or when cold ? Adjustment

[psilosin]

Here is a video of me starting up the L400 today. Outside temperature is 8oC...so far from cold. This is a pretty average startup for temps >3oC to <10oC...not super smokey but enough to be embarrassing at work. Closer to 0oC the cranking and smoke are 10-20x more...I'll get a video of that next cold morning.

Glow plugs as previously mentioned are brand new.

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

Here is a video of me starting up the L400 today. Outside temperature is 8oC...so far from cold. This is a pretty average startup for temps >3oC to <10oC...not super smokey but enough to be embarrassing at work. Closer to 0oC the cranking and smoke are 10-20x more...I'll get a video of that next cold morning.

Glow plugs as previously mentioned are brand new.

I first thought power source to ECU/glow plug relay is way too low ( low possibility ).
From my experience, I would say you need fuel delivery system service/ or IP main seal replacement ( high possibility ).

Just my thought.

Steven

[jessef]

I watched your ip seal get replaced so that's out of the equation.

The initial smoke is white = air entering the fuel system. Check the hoses/clamps/fuel filter/drain plug on filter/rear IP injector line connections - tight/injectors seated tight.

Did you check at the glow plugs both voltage & resistance to see if it's strong across the entire bus bar?

[psilosin]

I watched your ip seal get replaced so that's out of the equation.

The initial smoke is white = air entering the fuel system. Check the hoses/clamps/fuel filter/drain plug on filter/rear IP injector line connections - tight/injectors seated tight.

Did you check at the glow plugs both voltage & resistance to see if it's strong across the entire bus bar?

When the blockheater is plugged in overnight it starts first bump with no white smoke only a tiny black puff so if it is an air leak what leaks would be sealed with warm coolant to narrow it down? Or does that behavior strongly suggest the issue more likely lies somewhere in the glow pathway?

[nxski]

Mine blows out A LOT more smoke than that while starting but starts first crank unless it's very cold. it sounds like something to do with the glow plugs to me. That would explain all the cranking and why it starts so well with the block heater on. Maybe the temperature sensor!? (not sure how the L400 system is laid out)

[jessef]

I watched your ip seal get replaced so that's out of the equation.

The initial smoke is white = air entering the fuel system. Check the hoses/clamps/fuel filter/drain plug on filter/rear IP injector line connections - tight/injectors seated tight.

Did you check at the glow plugs both voltage & resistance to see if it's strong across the entire bus bar?

When the blockheater is plugged in overnight it starts first bump with no white smoke only a tiny black puff so if it is an air leak what leaks would be sealed with warm coolant to narrow it down? Or does that behavior strongly suggest the issue more likely lies somewhere in the glow pathway?

You narrowed it down to the glow plugs then. Next step unless you have done so already would be to check the bus bar for both voltage & resistance to see if it's strong across the entire surface from front to back.

[jcolvin]

So I got Mardy involved and he sent me a new set of glow-plugs. I replaced them and things were better. My van consistently starts to -25C without using the block heater. (I use the block heater if I can below about -15C.)

Mardy also shared that they have been having a lot of problems with L400s blowing out glow-plugs. The problem is that the engine doesn't warm up enough at idle for the ECM to turn off the plugs in a reasonable amount of time. After a while, the glow-plugs burn out. In my case, my mechanic replaced the glow plugs (with not so good ones), but after only a couple of cold starts they were burnt out. Mardy's solution is to let the engine idle for a minute to get the oil spread around, then to run it at 1500RPM for a minute, then 2000RPM until the relay clicks off. (I may not have these instructions quite right. If your van comes alive and eats you children, please don't blame me or Mardy.) So far, this solution has worked well for me. Generally, I don't have to ramp up to 2000 RPM at all.

That doesn't sound right. The glow plugs on an L400 will only glow for a max of 8 seconds or so even if the engine is stone cold. Perhaps he's thinking of the L300 system which clicks on and off periodically as the engine warms up? If 8 secs of glow is enough to burn out the glow plugs after a few starts then there's something systematically wrong with the plugs. Wrong voltage or something?

[jcolvin]

I've been having the EXACT same problem (except mine is even more smoky when cold and stumbles for good ten seconds when it eventually fires up with huge clouds of smoke). Happens after sitting overnight. Was pretty sure it was the glow plug relay since I put brand new plugs in and cleaned up the bus bar with no change. Put in a new relay and wires and that seemed to fix it....for a few days! Now the problem is back again and as bad as ever. I'm now thinking that it must be the main seal, but if you are having the same issue after a new seal I really don't want to waste the $800 or whatever on something that isn't broken. Could my brand new plugs have burned out? I really doubt it, especially since it wasn't a plug problem in the first place (new plugs didnt fix the problem). This is driving me crazy. I have a brand new glow relay, all new plugs, the relay wired directly to the + terminal on the battery with over-sized wires, an additional ground strap directly to the - post on the battery, a bus bar polished and shiny, and it is still coughing and puttering just like it has no glow at all. The plugs are definitely getting voltage. I guess I'm going to bite the bullet and change out the pump seals, if that doesn't fix it I'm going to loose it.

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

I watched your ip seal get replaced so that's out of the equation.

So I got Mardy involved and he sent me a new set of glow-plugs. I replaced them and things were better. My van consistently starts to -25C without using the block heater. (I use the block heater if I can below about -15C.)

Mardy also shared that they have been having a lot of problems with L400s blowing out glow-plugs. The problem is that the engine doesn't warm up enough at idle for the ECM to turn off the plugs in a reasonable amount of time. After a while, the glow-plugs burn out. In my case, my mechanic replaced the glow plugs (with not so good ones), but after only a couple of cold starts they were burnt out. Mardy's solution is to let the engine idle for a minute to get the oil spread around, then to run it at 1500RPM for a minute, then 2000RPM until the relay clicks off. (I may not have these instructions quite right. If your van comes alive and eats you children, please don't blame me or Mardy.) So far, this solution has worked well for me. Generally, I don't have to ramp up to 2000 RPM at all.

That doesn't sound right. The glow plugs on an L400 will only glow for a max of 8 seconds or so even if the engine is stone cold. Perhaps he's thinking of the L300 system which clicks on and off periodically as the engine warms up? If 8 secs of glow is enough to burn out the glow plugs after a few starts then there's something systematically wrong with the plugs. Wrong voltage or something?

I've been having the EXACT same problem (except mine is even more smoky when cold and stumbles for good ten seconds when it eventually fires up with huge clouds of smoke). Happens after sitting overnight. Was pretty sure it was the glow plug relay since I put brand new plugs in and cleaned up the bus bar with no change. Put in a new relay and wires and that seemed to fix it....for a few days! Now the problem is back again and as bad as ever. I'm now thinking that it must be the main seal, but if you are having the same issue after a new seal I really don't want to waste the $800 or whatever on something that isn't broken. Could my brand new plugs have burned out? I really doubt it, especially since it wasn't a plug problem in the first place (new plugs didnt fix the problem). This is driving me crazy. I have a brand new glow relay, all new plugs, the relay wired directly to the + terminal on the battery with over-sized wires, an additional ground strap directly to the - post on the battery, a bus bar polished and shiny, and it is still coughing and puttering just like it has no glow at all. The plugs are definitely getting voltage. I guess I'm going to bite the bullet and change out the pump seals, if that doesn't fix it I'm going to loose it.

This is exactly what I am talking about yesterday.
But jfarsang saw IP main seal replaced by the seller, so I think IP main seal was replaced not professionally or other o-rings have not been replaced at the same time.

Steven

[psilosin]

I met up with Fishtank after work today for a parking lot detective session. Looks like I am getting 0 power out of the relay, it clicks like it is working but not getting any voltage.

I guess I have been compression only starting my van since purchase (it started poorly until mid-april when it warmed up) lol. Considering that it is actually pretty impressive I get started at all.

Yay another part to purchase and another day off spent working on the L400... I'm having VW flashbacks...

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

I met up with Fishtank after work today for a parking lot detective session. Looks like I am getting 0 power out of the relay, it clicks like it is working but not getting any voltage.

I guess I have been compression only starting my van since purchase (it started poorly until mid-april when it warmed up) lol. Considering that it is actually pretty impressive I get started at all.

Yay another part to purchase and another day off spent working on the L400... I'm having VW flashbacks...

Good news.
Even if you hear the 2 clicks, glow plug relay ( not glow plug itself ) not working ( broken ) is a totally different story.
Usually if we have a broken relay at "self regulating system_11V", it cranks way too long to start.

Steven

[jessef]

psilosin I sent you a pm. Give me a call, I'll help you out. Disregard the assumption post with regards to the IP seal replacement. It was done a professional mechanic.

[psilosin]

Thanks for the PM Jesse, I'll give you a shout tomorrow.

Don't worry I am not worried about the quality of the work done at AA by the mech, I'm sure Steven just said that to have a bit of fun.

[Rising Sun Auto Import]

I watched the video again.
It shows first click at 8 sec. and second click at 16sec., fired up at 19sec..
I think you got no problem with glow plug relay.
If you have a faulty relay, it wouldn’t start in 3 seconds.

I would weigh faulty fuel delivery system as it sucks air for hesitating to start easily.

Pls check/bleed all fuel delivery system one by one.
I believe IP main seal is the last clue.

Steven

[Fishtank]

I watched the video again.
It shows first click at 8 sec. and second click at 16sec., fired up at 19sec..
I think you got no problem with glow plug relay.
If you have a faulty relay, it wouldn’t start in 3 seconds.

I would weigh faulty fuel delivery system as it sucks air for hesitating to start easily.

Pls check/bleed all fuel delivery system one by one.
I believe IP main seal is the last clue.

Steven

Riiiiiiight, so the fact that there is no voltage coming out of his relay to his GP bus bar has absolutely nothing to do with his problem? Did you even read his last post?

Looks like I am getting 0 power out of the relay, it clicks like it is working but not getting any voltage.

Wait a minute, didn't you say this earlier? Oh ya, here it is...

I first thought power source to ECU/glow plug relay is way too low ( low possibility ).
Steven

But you said it was a "low possibility" and you have it in your head that this is an opportunity to expose an issue with the quality of workmanship from where psilosin purchased his vehicle, and you just won't let that go.

Nice try... thanks for coming out.