Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

That test would be a good idea. (I sent the rest of the details via PM). It's worth mentioning that I did see the change probably most significant in the high beams but due to the eCode lens pattern that could just be the way it looks due to the lens patterns and their differences. They sure seem to throw a lot of IR heat off now (the lenses feel cool to the touch but hold your hand in the air in front and it gets pretty hot).

JMK,

I already described how to and price... on this post:
http://www.delica.ca/forum/hid-headligh ... hlight=hid

I only did the low beam and used the 6000 which have a tint of blue. I'll put the 5000 asap as they are the whiter one and I think they'll light up better. As for pitch dark night driving, got to readjust my headlight first as I cranked my torsion bar and figure I'm aiming too high. Nonetheless, they do give a lot of light!

I'm very interested in your LED process, well done!

Green1 wrote:the other is to retrofit to an electronic flasher (which is a much better option) I would think anywhere selling the LED bulbs would also have electronic flashers...

But the flasher unit is nothing like other flashers. It is a big black box with 2 relays inside. So I doubt there are any other flashers out there. I know that even with the Mitsu part number, PartSource and AutoValue couldn't find a replacement in any of there sources.

For photos of the flasher unit, see my thread on my flasher troubles: turn signals dead.

Hmmm, I kind of suspected maybe the resistor may turn out to be the path of least resistance. However, now I'm thinking that as I forgot to order them anyway, I'll just leave the front signals incandescent and as they must be on the same circuit as the side flashers, I'll be OK. Now though I'm wondering if the rear signals are on the same circuit. If they are I'm still good, if not I guess I'll need a resistor.

Hmmm, I kind of suspected maybe the resistor may turn out to be the path of least resistance

*GROAN*

Of course, if you look at it, that's exactly what they are there for, to create a lower resistance path than the LED bulb... so as to make the system draw enough current to activate the relays...

As for the flasher unit... shouldn't be TOO hard to retrofit something....

Maybe this is all beyond me but I think I read on the SuperBrights site that all bulbs come with resistors incorporated into them. I see lots of commercial vehicles and some trailers w/LED flashers so should be ready-made somewhere.

Edit: lookee here http://www.vehiclelight.com/paac.html for inexpensive two and three prong LED flasher units and other fun stuff.

--T

Green1 wrote:

Hmmm, I kind of suspected maybe the resistor may turn out to be the path of least resistance

*GROAN*

Of course, if you look at it, that's exactly what they are there for, to create a lower resistance path than the LED bulb... so as to make the system draw enough current to activate the relays...

As for the flasher unit... shouldn't be TOO hard to retrofit something....

torchard wrote:Maybe this is all beyond me but I think I read on the SuperBrights site that all bulbs come with resistors incorporated into them. I see lots of commercial vehicles and some trailers w/LED flashers so should be ready-made somewhere.

That's because LEDs need a resister to work with 12-14 volts. That has nothing to do with the current draw needed to trip the turn signal relay.

lookee here http://www.vehiclelight.com/paac.html for

I noticed they are somewhat more expensive than SUperBright LEDS. EG: their Chrome Surface mount bracket for 4 X 1 Lamp goes for $3.75, on SUperbright it is $2.95. From the other stuff I saw looks like they average about 20% higher.

Thanks for clarifying around the topic of resistors. Once again I comment without knowing what I'm talking about. I'll be running for office soon!

As for the prices, I posted that link as a sample source. There are many distributors apparently and no doubt the prices vary widely.

Superbright told me on the phone that they simply sell items sourced in Asia that lots of other sellers also sell. I wondered if their stuff may be found cheaper on eBay and I had a quick look but a lot of the listings seemed confusing and it was hard to track down all the different types at one source from the eBay sellers, so in the end I gave up and went with SUperBright LED's just to keep it simple.

Another way to fix the flasher relay problem, if it happens, of not having enough resistance is this module from Signal Dynamics. Although designed for motorcyles, it sounds like it would work.

Unfortunately they only ship to Canada via UPS and not USPS. That means that you will incur a brokerage fee if you ship UPS ground from their Winnipeg Branch so the $18.00 items ends up costing about $75.00 in the end (ditto for air, no brokerage fee but higher shipping). If you order from SUperbright it would be best just to order their resistors for about $5.00 each I think it was and include them with your lights. My rule of thumb is if a U.S. supplier does not ship via USPS then I do not buy it.

Erebus wrote:

torchard wrote:Maybe this is all beyond me but I think I read on the SuperBrights site that all bulbs come with resistors incorporated into them. I see lots of commercial vehicles and some trailers w/LED flashers so should be ready-made somewhere.

That's because LEDs need a resister to work with 12-14 volts. That has nothing to do with the current draw needed to trip the turn signal relay.

Correct, the voltage drop across the resistor is such that the voltage across the LED is only around 2V (which is the operating voltage of most LEDs). LEDs which indicate they are 12V already have the resistor in series (it's the bump in one of the wires). However, even with this resistor, they can still draw less current than an incandescent bulb which is why some flasher relays 'think' the bulb is burned out.