Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

need a new ecu Cvi is fresh out! Anyone have a rebuilt for sale? Y can't the glow plugs be 12 v then I wouldn't have to figure out resistance calculations grrrrrr

thedjjack wrote:I was going to put a Mercedes controller in mine when it goes (you can get them new for around $100-175).

It has a temperature input and runs the plugs for up to 3 minutes after it is started. It has a 80 amp fuse built in and serves as the relays as well. Simple and well built.

here is the manual for one: http://handbook.w116.org/Engine/617/15-705.pdf

just an idea

Replace the 6volt with 12 volts get a used Mercedes Controller (lots of old Mercedes being wrecked on Craigslist). wire it up and let us know how it works out!

What makes you think you need a new one? The usual failure mode (no activity) is caused by dead capacitors, and is easy to fix.

...laura

These units can be easily rebuilt by any competent electrical repair facility. We have them reconditioned and tested on the shelf $150 (exchange). Can be cheaper if you have the time to take it in and wait for the repair.

marsgal42 wrote:What makes you think you need a new one? The usual failure mode (no activity) is caused by dead capacitors, and is easy to fix.

...laura

Sounds like the DSM and other Mitsubishi ECU failures due to the leaky electrolytic capacitors. Most of the time in the DSM units it is the larger "can type" capacitors and not the surface mount units. The can type are easy because the values are printed on the sides, but the small surface mounts would have to be tested to determine the values if you did not have a schematic diagram.

I should start offering a repair service for ECU's. I also like to install a socket for the EPROM in a ECU as then you can replace it easily, or use one of the ROM interface systems on the market.

This happened to my L300 ECU, but almost every capacitor of both types was leaking! So it was just easier to just grab an ECU from a 1990 Mighty Max (the only year that had the same system and high-impedance injectors like the 88/89 USA L300). The ECU is a California ECU and my L300 is a federal system, so I do not have EGR! Hence, the ECU generates a code 64 (EGR temp sensor code) and the check engine light comes on. I plan to trick the ECU into "thinking" that the sensor is there.

You should get a portable oscilloscope since you have an OBD-I system; you can just time scale and read the number of square-wave pulses as opposed to counting light flashes or volt meter needle deflections.


I am thinking about doing a stand-alone system however (i.e. MegaSquirt 3).

Install a switch to the relay today yeah!! No more smoke show

irish_delica83 wrote:Install a switch to the relay today yeah!! No more smoke show

Is it a momentary switch that disengages when you let it go? Would be best, otherwise you'll burn out your glowplugs when you forget to turn the switch off that one time. Just a thought.

Good to hear you got it fixed, just the same.

A general ECU question: are the L300 ECU interchangable ? MD172612 (1992) / MD119332 (1990) ?

Thanks

Lapprentis