Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Posted: **Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:09 pm**

I think my injectors are going... over the past few days i have lost a little power burnt a little grey and a lot black

I checked air filter and its good, fuel filter was changed about two months ago so but i checked for water and there was none. I've been using the same fuel from the same station. So it must be my injectors rite

i just replaced the timming belt a little while back and she ran fine after that so i dont think the ip pump would be out. and i was told the ip pump was rebuild in calgary so it should be fine.... I hope. any ideas.
Or could it also be the turbo startin to shit the bed?

Posted: **Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:34 pm**

Another thought: You say the same fuel from the same station ~ are you sure? The reason I ask is because in the last little while stations have been going from LSD to ULSD. This may have no affect but might be worth looking into.

Air in the line? Air leak in the intake manifold? Have you checked the water trap under the fuel filter? EGR valve?

Falco

Posted: **Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:49 pm**

I use husky diesel. LSD to ULSD, woud that be a cause? If so i should be able to counter that by adding a fuel lubricant. I'll look into that. How would i test to see if i have a intake manifold leak?
is it something i could do on my own? Thanks

Posted: **Thu Sep 01, 2011 9:50 pm**

I use Howe's Diesel Treat with my Diesel Max. I'm not sure if it is a cause but I have noted a difference in performance recently. The last people running my local Husky said they were moving LSD, the new people to take over have informed me that Diesel Max has been ULSD for a few years.

When it comes to my intake/exhaust manifolds I just check that the connexions are snug. You could use soapy water and look for bubbles. I believe that anyone could do this but there is a learning curve. Three years ago if you told me that I would be playing with my injector pump I wouldn't understand what you meant and would likely have construed the comment as a rude joke. Check the "L300 Downloads" forum for manuals. One way I have been learning about my engine has been by polishing various parts of the engine, you gradually become familiar with the different parts.

Falco.

Posted: **Thu Sep 01, 2011 11:23 pm**

If you have a bit of a power loss, try the seafoam treatment.

http://www.delica.ca/forum/seafoam-discussion-9722.html

jfarsang wrote:This stuff is an excellent cleaner for oil/diesel.

Every 15k or so, I do the following and will continue to do so :

Buy 4 cans of seafoam.

1 can for the crankcase (before oil change). Run it for 100km or so on the highway and then drain, and fresh oil change with new filters. You will notice a difference in the knocking and valves on your engine in a better way.

2 cans for the Injection Pump (before fuel filter change). As per above post, in/out hoses into a 1L bottle filled with seafoam and run close to emptying the bottle but not quite enough to suck in air.

1/2 can for the fuel filter. Buy a new fuel filter. Turn upside down, fill with seafoam (about 1/2 can) and spin on. Then run on highway or high idle (3k) for about 15 mins.

1/2 a can dump in the tank.

This whole process will make the engine feel like new.

The one 'issue' is that if you do not follow the instructions properly, you can do damage to the engine both internally and the fuel system.

Seafoam must be used with care.

The alternative is to have a diesel service shop clean the injectors/IP/lines.

The other 'issue' that I have with this product is that it will not do the 'full fuel system clean' on every diesel.

You can try it, but the possibility is that it may not work or not give you the results you expect.

On the other hand, a professional fuel service clean will give you consistent results.

Seafoam is best used on a good engine/fuel system.

If you are having problems with fuel issues, then the obvious would be to have a good diesel shop look at it.

If you have a problem with fuel and you use seafoam, there is also a possibility of making things worse in this example : seafoam in tank -> seafoam dislodges sludge/particles along the fuel line and plugs up your injection pump or injectors if it makes it that far. Then your performance gets worse. Another problem : your system seems fine but you have old seals that you are not aware of and you use seafoam. Seafoam can eat away at the seals making them leak.

Personally, I would only use it on a good engine with a good fuel system.

Posted: **Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:08 pm**

Thanks for the advice, late last night i stumbled on jfarsang's post about how the sea foam works and how to do it, so when i came home and saw your post here i thought that was kinda funny

But it didnt work the smoke out for me this time

I checked the intake and hoses with soap and water no leaks. So I'm back at the start again. Ive been looking on some uk sites and from what i can see it looks like injectors, low compression or the ip pump,I need a dumbed down explanation i dont understand most of what they say or maybe the way they say it

Is there a inrichment screw on the pump that could turn out or in from vibration? or any other things with the ip pump that i could check

Posted: **Fri Sep 02, 2011 4:52 pm**

92Nicopolis wrote:I think my injectors are going... over the past few days i have lost a little power burnt a little grey and a lot black I checked air filter and its good, fuel filter was changed about two months ago so but i checked for water and there was none. I've been using the same fuel from the same station. So it must be my injectors rite i just replaced the timming belt a little while back and she ran fine after that so i dont think the ip pump would be out. and i was told the ip pump was rebuild in calgary so it should be fine.... I hope. any ideas.
Or could it also be the turbo startin to shit the bed?

92Nicopolis wrote:Thanks for the advice, late last night i stumbled on jfarsang's post about how the sea foam works and how to do it, so when i came home and saw your post here i thought that was kinda funny But it didnt work the smoke out for me this time I checked the intake and hoses with soap and water no leaks. So I'm back at the start again. Ive been looking on some uk sites and from what i can see it looks like injectors, low compression or the ip pump,I need a dumbed down explanation i dont understand most of what they say or maybe the way they say it Is there a inrichment screw on the pump that could turn out or in from vibration? or any other things with the ip pump that i could check

From your 2 postings, I think you don’t have problem for turbo and intake IMO.
If you hear some air leak/hissing sound, it possibly is due to faulty turbo/intake manifold ( if turbo is no leaking, to replace/clean/machine intake and gasket kit will solve the air leak/power loss prolem).

In this case, I think your injectors need to be taken care of_ replacing heat shield, base seal and return seals at a time and bleeding.

Seaform treatment is worth to try, but not a good solution anyway.

Steven 778-995-2459

Posted: **Fri Sep 02, 2011 6:20 pm**

92Nicopolis wrote:I think my injectors are going

Take them to a diesel shop in sask and have them rebuilt. May have clogged nozzles or too low cracking pressure. There's a few sk guys on here and on 4x4wire in the Paj section.

Posted: **Fri Sep 02, 2011 9:09 pm**

They are pretty easy to change yourself. Save a couple hundred bucks labour.

Posted: **Sat Sep 03, 2011 12:15 pm**

yeh, I think im gona get 4 new ones, read a post about changing them, shouldn't be to hard. I'll order them soon, thanks again to everyone. I'll update the post when i have the new ones installed

Posted: **Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:41 pm**

Block or Clean your EGR, easy and cheap.
Getting your injectors cleaned is not a bad idea.
You could check the timing belts and pensioners,
If it has been done recently for any play /proper
tension.
Start simple n cheap.

Right On!

Posted: **Sat Sep 03, 2011 4:58 pm**

92Nicopolis wrote:yeh, I think im gona get 4 new ones, read a post about changing them, shouldn't be to hard. I'll order them soon, thanks again to everyone. I'll update the post when i have the new ones installed

If you end up buying aftermarket injectors, make sure you take them to a diesel shop to set the cracking pressure and spray pattern to the factory specs before you install them. Easier to have done if they are sitting in your hands out of the vehicle.

Good luck !

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:23 pm**

Sorry to jack the thread, but if you remove and disassemble your injectors, will they need to be set up again? Or can you put everything back together as is and still be in factory territory.

Posted: **Mon Sep 05, 2011 9:58 pm**

.:FoRuM56:. wrote:Sorry to jack the thread, but if you remove and disassemble your injectors, will they need to be set up again? Or can you put everything back together as is and still be in factory territory.

They will need to be setup again.

To do it properly they should all be shimmed and balanced to make sure all run the same and it's not something you can really do without the right equipment.

There is alot to the job.

I have seen a before and after spray pattern (Mr. Edwin from CVI - thanks for the teachings) from my injectors and it was night and day. They were disassembled, cleaned and the reassembled. Then the cracking pressure and spray pattern are adjusted on a special machine that pumps fuel through and displays psi pressure and spray pattern.

This process is the same for rebuilding injectors, cleaning injectors, replacing the nozzles and before installing a brand new purchased injector.

New or used, it has to be setup unless you can have a guarantee from the shop selling you the new one that is has been setup by them to the manufacture specifications.

Posted: **Tue Sep 06, 2011 8:53 am**

jfarsang wrote:
.:FoRuM56:. wrote:Sorry to jack the thread, but if you remove and disassemble your injectors, will they need to be set up again? Or can you put everything back together as is and still be in factory territory.
They will need to be setup again.

To do it properly they should all be shimmed and balanced to make sure all run the same and it's not something you can really do without the right equipment.

This process is the same for rebuilding injectors, cleaning injectors, replacing the nozzles and before installing a brand new purchased injector.

New or used, it has to be setup unless you can have a guarantee from the shop selling you the new one that is has been setup by them to the manufacture specifications.

Hyundai OEM is the exact same one as those of Mitsubishi OEM.
They are complete replacement part for Mitsubishi
delica/pajero and spacegear.
So there's no need to set up/adjust to the manufacture's spec again.
It is a built-in injector , just like spark plugs ( already set up at OEM factory ) in the gasoline engine.
No need to replace nozzle tip only, it is a full assy and well priced.
Just be cautious when you take old ones off from threads for breaking up.
And make sure sit-place inside thread is clean.

No need to set the spec up again after installation.
Just use 3 heatshields and gaskets in proper position and use adequate torque.
You have to start engine with constant 2000rpm for air bleeding.
If you think no air in the system, shut off engine and start again right away.

That's it.

I hope this is not intended for advertisement.

Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

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