Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

i would like to know the process of closing off the EGR valve and if it is possible to show some pics. for i think i would like to do it now,that ive heard so many doing it. any advice and details would be great. and full of thanks.

There may be something on the procedure on the UK forum here
I haven't read through it all yet, there's a lot there.

Mystery Machine wrote a wonderful photo guide to the EGR here: http://www.delica.ca/forum/how-to-fit-a ... html#p2313

I plan to clean mine rather than blanking it, but the instructions are pretty much identical. I hope it will clean up my smoking.

To clean it my garage gave me a can of carburetor cleaner. He showed me how it dissolved pretty much any gunk. Now I just need a few hours.

How did your EGR cleaning go ,im really wanting to do mine aswell did you go the path of Mystery Machean step by step photo guide.

I used Mystery Machine's guide on the weekend. The part where he describes removing the "metal pipe" I would change. You only have to loosen the pipe clamp on the engine side and remove it from the "rubber hose". Once the metal pipe is removed from the rubber hose you just need to rotate it up and that will give you plenty of room to get at the bolts on the EGR valve.

The other thing that is not explained in the guide is that there are two more bolts on the bottom of the EGR valve that need to be removed if you are taking out the valve.

The other other thing that is not described is the vacuum hose that is attached to the top of the valve. This will need to go back on if you are planning on just cleaning the valve and using it again. I don't really see why you need to blank off the valve in the first place. The valve is normally closed and is opened by the suction of the vacuum from the vacuum hose. If you remove the hose from the valve and plug it (and you verify that your valve is not stuck open) then you will have disabled the valve which I believe would be the same thing as blanking it off with a piece of metal....which I figured out after I had put in a blanking plate.

RESULTS of Blanking: I'd say that it got rid of the black smoke that I was getting at lower boost pressures, which would make sense I think because that is when the valve would be open, but it did not change the amount of smoke at higher boost pressures. I will likely take out the blanking plate this weekend and test the cleaned valve. I have always thought that I'm getting too much fuel, which is likely causing some of the excess black smoke.....this is my next adjustment.

In Review:

On a scale from 1 to 10, I'd say this job was about a 5....and I am not a mechanic! It took me about 3-hours to remove the valve, clean it, fabricate a blanking plate (from a cookie tin lid), put it back together and test drive.

Hope this helps.

-Mark

DelicaMark

RESULTS of Blanking: I'd say that it got rid of the black smoke that I was getting at lower boost pressures, which would make sense I think because that is when the valve would be open, but it did not change the amount of smoke at higher boost pressures. I will likely take out the blanking plate this weekend and test the cleaned valve. I have always thought that I'm getting too much fuel, which is likely causing some of the excess black smoke.....this is my next adjustment.

On one Delica, along with injection pump timing, it also improved mileage well reducing black smoke. More then two years later there is still minimal smoke, but the same can be said for the other van which hasn't had the injection pump set (used to leak with diesel), but does have a cleaned EGR valve. I was planning to remove the plate and check it's condition this weekend, it was a anodized plate from the UK, cause I'm very curious how it's held up in there for several years. Let us know if there surface affect on yours for the short time your trying it please.

How would you rate a boost gauge install on the 1-10 scale?

Kev

Mark, that's funny, cause I also cleaned my EGR valve on the weekend. Agree with your points about MM's instructions. I'd add that I removed the driver's seat to give easier access. Certainly wouldn't have wanted to do it without MM's instructions. It probably took me 4 hours. The carburetor cleaner my garage gave me sure worked wonders.

In the other thread on this forum http://www.delica.ca/forum/black-smoke-584.html I mention that I think it might be smoking more now.

When I posted to the UK forum way back in Sept (hey, it only took me 2 months to get to it!), vindiesel suggested adjusting the fuel injection. http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17234 I think I'll try that next.

I blanked off my EGR with the MDOUK plate. When I took it apart there was already a piece of tin in place for a blanking plate. It had serious pitting and holes in it, not sure how long it was on, but I would be wary of using a cookie tin lid in that environment.

James

I blanked off my EGR with the MDOUK plate. When I took it apart there was already a piece of tin in place for a blanking plate. It had serious pitting and holes in it, not sure how long it was on, but I would be wary of using a cookie tin lid in that environment.

I hear you there. The cookie tin lid really was a one week solution. I have great concerns that it will burn through very quickly. I bought some 24 guage stainless steel yesterday that I hope will be pretty good. I'll let you all know what the condition of the cookie tin lid was after a week.

How would you rate a boost gauge install on the 1-10 scale?

This depends on if you want to permanently install the guage on the dash or not. It is a real pain to route the pressure line from the engine to the dash. Check out my comments from this post http://www.delica.ca/forum/adjusting-tu ... -1441.html. For the install that I did....likley a 5/10 on the skill level and close to 9/10 on the pain in the ass factor for routing the pressure line. Perhaps a better route for the pressure line would have been good.

When I posted to the UK forum way back in Sept (hey, it only took me 2 months to get to it!), vindiesel suggested adjusting the fuel injection. http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17234 I think I'll try that next.

I saw this too and it made sense to me. I was holding off on turning down the fuel becasue it is going to be a huge pain getting at the adjustment screw. Has anyone done this? If so did you adjust the screw from the top of the engine or reach up from the bottom?

Page 50 and 51 of http://www.enviroimports.com/pdf/L300_4D56_engine.pdf does not suggest that the nut on the back of the injector pump in between the 4 injector lines turns up or turns down the fuel like described by vindiesel.

I tried this tonight and managed to get a good fuel leak! I am sure that I somehow did it wrong or dinked with the wrong adjustment nut (there really only seems to be one back there). Either way I made things as they were and the leak stopped. According to the above manual page I loosened the timing check plug. I see that there is a gasket there which I assume keeps fuel from coming out....but when you loosen that timing check plug and leave it loose, assuming that is the correct adjustment, things leak.

If this is the correct adjustment for turning down the fuel then I clearly don't get how it works.

Some my removing of the cookie tin lid blanking plate got a little delayed...until today. I removed the cookie tin blanking plate and it had zero signs of any pitting or holes. I would think that the UK plates will last pretty much forever. I got a couple of the UK ones sent and fit one today. Actually I fit one and lost one....AHHHH! The lost one has still not been located but is somewhere between the back side of the EGR valve and the ground . When I was lining it up it fell and disappeared. My hope is that is will fall out one day and not find its way into somewhere it shouldn't....good thing I got two!

-Delica "Slippery Fingers" Mark

DelicaMark wrote:The lost one has still not been located but is somewhere between the back side of the EGR valve and the ground . When I was lining it up it fell and disappeared.

check on one of the skid plates. Wouldn't want it to fall off on the highway and hit someone's windshield!

Still have to get on the UK site and ask person for clarification of the fuel adjustment screw.

Good point Ruminante about the possible projectile!

As for the fuel adjustment screw I did find it and adjusted it. I did not see much of an improvement smoke-wise under load conditions. Adjusting it definitely does make a difference in the power output though. I have finally settled on a very small decrease of fuel for my adjustment. I have it turned down a little over a 1/16 of a turn. Not much as I said. The van is in the shop today having the timing checked and hopefully adjusted to help with the smoke under load that I am getting. Everything that I have done up to now has improved the smoke that I was getting under lower engine loads.

I can take a picture of the screw location if that is what you were hoping to find on the UK site if that will help out. I couldn't find one on the UK site and I found it pretty hard to find as it is hidden under a protective cap.

-Mark

I'd be interested in seeing that screw location.

Moved this to a separate topic to make it easier to find.

-Mark