GLOW PLUG rant **&^%$#@!
Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 3:54 pm
Ok, my patience has run out with some of you mechanics on this forum.
Part #1:
I'm making a short list of the obvious handful who know exactly what they are talking about. So far is a VERY short list. I'm disgusted by the MECHANICS who claim to be professionals and are making a living working on these Mitsu's and are obviously clueless in certain areas. What's wrong with saying the words I DO NOT KNOW THE CORRECT ANSWER?
Oh yes, money. Well in this day an age when money is getting short for so many to maintain our vehicles I gotta tell ya, mechanics that cost us unnecessary money and or cause unnecessary damage to our vehicles because of their lack of proper knowledge deserve a little more than a man to man chat.
I am by no means a mechanic but I am in the top 10 in the world at what I do for a living. Many people consult with me and ALWAYS get professional, experience and theory proven repeatable SOLUTIONS.
What am I pissed off about? Glow Plugs.
Before I had a clue about where to get parts/the correct part I made some errors in the learning process, like many of you. I had no clue this GP system is 6v and purchased a set from a vender on the UK who assured me they were the correct ones for my model/year/chassis #. LUCKLY I never installed them, because he sold me 12 v plugs.
MONEY WASTED. New in the box doing nothing.
A mechanic at a shop on this forum posted advice on an after market GP that works in the 4d56t engine. He reported installing many of them in customers vehicles and everyone reported have much quicker and smoother starts.
I did a bit more research to understand the 6v system and why so many are having problems getting the correct plug function. It became clear quickly one of the major factors is the resistance, not just the voltage.
Well, I discovered there's A LOT more to it than that. The 6v system is VERY sensitive and requires only the real Mitsu. green tops. Its not so much the glow plug that makes it sensitive but the specs of the control circuit. To be honest THAT pisses me off too ! Why reinvent the damn wheel. Well, obviously Mitsu dropped this stupid 6v/control circuit.
So this is exactly what happened:
- starting was getting very difficult in colder temps and obviously GP's needed replacing
- a week ago replaced GP's with highly recommended OEM's and startups were amazingly better. (no frickin' kidding, they were OVERHEATING so much its not funny), you could start anything with that if your willing to incur the potential damage). Noticed a slightly longer duration between 1st & 2nd click, not much, maybe a second or two longer at most. Very little but just enough to notice it. Remaining clicks were same as before. Just discovered from good posts on here I need to replace coolant sensor with a genuine Mitsu.
- today noticed 1st and 2nd clicks were as expected but no other clicks. When I thought about it realized it did same thing yesterday but there was one click a long duration after the first two.
> I shut it off for a bit and opened the hood. Turned key, waited for 2 clicks and turned it over. Walked over to relay side and observed. I have quick disconnects on my batteries for a charger that each have a simple red/yellow/green led to give a very general indicator of battery charge. Well, this is the first time I have seen the vehicle RUNNING with them in the red. I thought to myself "I bet its going to have one last very long duration click and the led's will go straight to green". Thats exactly what it did.
So, this is OBVIOUSLY placing huge unnecessary strain on my batteries and of course the alternator to recharge them. I have no idea if its done anything to my GP control board.
Here's the point. If this BULLSHIT ill-informed recommendation on OEM plugs by a professional mechanic costs me one penny due to damage I'm gonna pay you a visit and have a man to man talk with ya you f**** idiot. The loss for the GP's that I now obviously should have
put into the genuine Mitsu's is now more WASTED MONEY.
Being the reasonable man that I am I understand mystery problems like mystery noises or mystery electrical issues are a bit of a guessing game even for the most educated and experienced professionals BUT....
.... when the SOLUTION is a clear known (ie: replace the GP's) wtf are you clowns doing dishing out the incorrect information on the part???
NOW I know why the OBVIOUS informed few on here say go with genuine green tops. The rest of ya can take a hike, your a joke.
Part #2:
Today's current solution is to replace the worn out originals before any (more) real damage occurs and endure the tough starts until I can replace with the real deal. When I'm able to do that I'll send in the old ones to someone who OBVIOUSLY knows what they are doing to be cleaned and re-calibrated for spares.
Part #3:
Like some of you I'm sure your annoyed that Mitsu designed such an unnecessarily sensitive circuit. I DO NOT like the manual switch idea but have read recommendations on ripping out the ENTIRE system and replacing it with something more reasonably priced, more reliable and more readily available like the Mercedes relay controller.
At this time I do not know if this is a direction worth pursuing. If entire system is ripped out and replaced with something much better designed at this stage that seems logical to look into. Any real pro's looked into this?
PISSED OFF at some of you mechanic jokers.
And THANK YOU to the handful that really know their stuff.
Artie
Part #1:
I'm making a short list of the obvious handful who know exactly what they are talking about. So far is a VERY short list. I'm disgusted by the MECHANICS who claim to be professionals and are making a living working on these Mitsu's and are obviously clueless in certain areas. What's wrong with saying the words I DO NOT KNOW THE CORRECT ANSWER?
Oh yes, money. Well in this day an age when money is getting short for so many to maintain our vehicles I gotta tell ya, mechanics that cost us unnecessary money and or cause unnecessary damage to our vehicles because of their lack of proper knowledge deserve a little more than a man to man chat.
I am by no means a mechanic but I am in the top 10 in the world at what I do for a living. Many people consult with me and ALWAYS get professional, experience and theory proven repeatable SOLUTIONS.
What am I pissed off about? Glow Plugs.
Before I had a clue about where to get parts/the correct part I made some errors in the learning process, like many of you. I had no clue this GP system is 6v and purchased a set from a vender on the UK who assured me they were the correct ones for my model/year/chassis #. LUCKLY I never installed them, because he sold me 12 v plugs.
MONEY WASTED. New in the box doing nothing.
A mechanic at a shop on this forum posted advice on an after market GP that works in the 4d56t engine. He reported installing many of them in customers vehicles and everyone reported have much quicker and smoother starts.
I did a bit more research to understand the 6v system and why so many are having problems getting the correct plug function. It became clear quickly one of the major factors is the resistance, not just the voltage.
Well, I discovered there's A LOT more to it than that. The 6v system is VERY sensitive and requires only the real Mitsu. green tops. Its not so much the glow plug that makes it sensitive but the specs of the control circuit. To be honest THAT pisses me off too ! Why reinvent the damn wheel. Well, obviously Mitsu dropped this stupid 6v/control circuit.
So this is exactly what happened:
- starting was getting very difficult in colder temps and obviously GP's needed replacing
- a week ago replaced GP's with highly recommended OEM's and startups were amazingly better. (no frickin' kidding, they were OVERHEATING so much its not funny), you could start anything with that if your willing to incur the potential damage). Noticed a slightly longer duration between 1st & 2nd click, not much, maybe a second or two longer at most. Very little but just enough to notice it. Remaining clicks were same as before. Just discovered from good posts on here I need to replace coolant sensor with a genuine Mitsu.
- today noticed 1st and 2nd clicks were as expected but no other clicks. When I thought about it realized it did same thing yesterday but there was one click a long duration after the first two.
> I shut it off for a bit and opened the hood. Turned key, waited for 2 clicks and turned it over. Walked over to relay side and observed. I have quick disconnects on my batteries for a charger that each have a simple red/yellow/green led to give a very general indicator of battery charge. Well, this is the first time I have seen the vehicle RUNNING with them in the red. I thought to myself "I bet its going to have one last very long duration click and the led's will go straight to green". Thats exactly what it did.
So, this is OBVIOUSLY placing huge unnecessary strain on my batteries and of course the alternator to recharge them. I have no idea if its done anything to my GP control board.
Here's the point. If this BULLSHIT ill-informed recommendation on OEM plugs by a professional mechanic costs me one penny due to damage I'm gonna pay you a visit and have a man to man talk with ya you f**** idiot. The loss for the GP's that I now obviously should have
put into the genuine Mitsu's is now more WASTED MONEY.
Being the reasonable man that I am I understand mystery problems like mystery noises or mystery electrical issues are a bit of a guessing game even for the most educated and experienced professionals BUT....
.... when the SOLUTION is a clear known (ie: replace the GP's) wtf are you clowns doing dishing out the incorrect information on the part???
NOW I know why the OBVIOUS informed few on here say go with genuine green tops. The rest of ya can take a hike, your a joke.
Part #2:
Today's current solution is to replace the worn out originals before any (more) real damage occurs and endure the tough starts until I can replace with the real deal. When I'm able to do that I'll send in the old ones to someone who OBVIOUSLY knows what they are doing to be cleaned and re-calibrated for spares.
Part #3:
Like some of you I'm sure your annoyed that Mitsu designed such an unnecessarily sensitive circuit. I DO NOT like the manual switch idea but have read recommendations on ripping out the ENTIRE system and replacing it with something more reasonably priced, more reliable and more readily available like the Mercedes relay controller.
At this time I do not know if this is a direction worth pursuing. If entire system is ripped out and replaced with something much better designed at this stage that seems logical to look into. Any real pro's looked into this?
PISSED OFF at some of you mechanic jokers.
And THANK YOU to the handful that really know their stuff.
Artie
