Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Anyone seen a metal head gasket available for the 4d56t?

Looks like mine is on the way out AGAIN. I tell ya man, these vehicles....

Barring that, where's the best place to get a genuine Mitsubishi head gasket?
Thanks.

Artie

Artie Fufkin wrote:Anyone seen a metal head gasket available for the 4d56t?

Looks like mine is on the way out AGAIN. I tell ya man, these vehicles....

Barring that, where's the best place to get a genuine Mitsubishi head gasket?
Thanks.

Artie

There's no metal head gasket.
Try local delica part dealers for genuine gasket.

Steven

Artie Fufkin wrote:Looks like mine is on the way out AGAIN.

You have other issues if it's leaking after replacing it. I would immediately do a leak down test and if it checks out, have the block and head re-surfaced so that the new gasket mates to both properly. That is a step many overlook when replacing a head gasket.

Darn, no metal head gasket. I was hoping ...

Had HG changed almost a year ago. Unfortunately it was replaced with an HG from an after-market kit.

The swap came up unexpectedly will in the shop for something else and I had little time to get it done. If I knew then what I know now it would be a genuine Mitsu gasket.

The guy who did it explained the leveling/milling the head. They opted not to have it done because they said the pitting was very minor, almost not noticeable.

The reason why I'm suspecting the replacement gasket is going is I'm starting to see some oil in the rad again. ... Unless there is a different possible source for that.

Seems to me this 4d56t engine is a little more work than average to maintain.

AF

Artie Fufkin wrote: Seems to me this 4d56t engine is a little more work than average to maintain.

AF

Not really...Just the 4D56T has a aluminum head and a cast iron block. Diesels have 20+:! compression They compress the gas so much it explodes on its own.

So you have a cast iron block expanding at one rate as it heats and then an aluminum head expanding at a different rate with lots of heat. If you do not warm them up slow you are looking to warp a head (main reason to deck the head) and blow the head gasket. Add a timing belt, turbo, injector pump, and oil cooler and way more parts then a basic gas engine. This means they are more likely to need some love.

I would go OEM head gasket maybe new studs and machine the head. Then drive nice and slow until engine temperature comes up....

My old V8 cars we would wait until the temperature crossed over into normal and then rev the shit out of them all day...other then a few over revs and floating valves never a complaint!!

My Ford mechanic friend told me when a warranty car had a rod knock, Ford would only cover fixing the one rod if it did not get blown up. They would take the cars out back and floor them....Result warm motor would run for hours until the tank ran dry and a cold motor would blow in a few minutes.

WARM UP YOUR MOTORS!!!!

Artie Fufkin wrote:The guy who did it explained the leveling/milling the head. They opted not to have it done because they said the pitting was very minor, almost not noticeable.

Any pitting is no-no. The cost of machining the head/block is peanuts compared to the cost of having to re&re the head a 2nd time. Hope it's just the gasket but if you're doing it a 2nd time, I would not even hesitate to get the machining done on both surfaces.

I recently pulled the motor on my Subaru EJ25, 2.5 litre DOHC unleaded. Brought it to Alec's Automotive on Fraser and they decked the heads, removing approximately 0.006" of material, for $120 + taxes. They also did a leak down test and I had 2 cylinders with leaky valves, so I had a valve job done as well for $250. Put it all back together and I'm getting 165 PSI in all cylinders which is normal for this motor. I've put 3000 kms on it, and overall I'm happy with the work they did and the time that it took them. Maybe there are cheaper shops in town?

But I'm new to diesel Delicas! Haven't pulled a 4D56 yet (fingers crossed) so, the adventure begins...

Do you need to use new head bolts when replacing the head gasket on these L300s?

When I did the head gaskets on my V6 Toyota, it was told it was mandatory to use new head bolts due to them stretching. I would think the torque required to hold on Diesel heads would far exceed a gasser, no?

X2 on decking aluminum heads when you replace head gaskets.

snelson wrote:Do you need to use new head bolts when replacing the head gasket on these L300s?

When I did the head gaskets on my V6 Toyota, it was told it was mandatory to use new head bolts due to them stretching. I would think the torque required to hold on Diesel heads would far exceed a gasser, no?

X2 on decking aluminum heads when you replace head gaskets.

yes. New head bolts. The old one's will have stretched and if used on the replacement will cause it to leak eventually.