Did my Injector Pump Seal
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 6:29 am
I don't know that I have too much to add beyond what the tutorials list, but having gone through the process, I figured I'd get my thoughts up.
Working slowly, and not having done it before, I think it was about 8 hours (spread over 2 nights) to get the van back running. I still have some tweaking to do, which I'll get to later.
Getting the engine timed before removing the pump was not too big of a hassle once I realized that the cam spins counter to the crank (or at least mine does...). I spun it around twice to be sure, and for me, the mark on the cam is at its highest point when the timing mark is at 0.
I definitely had to remove the oil and vacuum pumps. You hit a point where they (or their lines) are in the way, so that's the obvious place to get them out of the way.
Other tricky bits: The fuel hard lines are a pain, but come off eventually. The bolt on the back of the pump also sucks. Probably 30 minutes just for that one. Felt like it anyway.
Once it was back together, it started right up. I had two immediate issues: First, the AT light would flash whenever I was idling. The slightest pressure on the pedal would make it go away. Second, I had no air conditioning.
Both problems were because I forgot to re-connect two sensors, both located on the coolant elbow.
Once I got that resolved, a longer road test revealed that the transmission was not kicking down properly. Foot to the floor would not cause a downshift, and shifts were coming early and hard. Looking at the TPS, it was rotated all the way to one side. I must have knocked it while working on the pump. I re-set to .78v, and it made the shifts a little softer, but still too early, and no kickdown. I then looked at the throttle valve (TV / kick down cable). It was way out of spec. I re-set it, and it... made no difference. Today on the ride in, I put the trans in "POWER" mode, and it started working properly. Re-reading some of the other sites, it seems that .78v is not a hard and fast rule. Lots of people just "turn it until it feels right". Which I will try tonight.
Working slowly, and not having done it before, I think it was about 8 hours (spread over 2 nights) to get the van back running. I still have some tweaking to do, which I'll get to later.
Getting the engine timed before removing the pump was not too big of a hassle once I realized that the cam spins counter to the crank (or at least mine does...). I spun it around twice to be sure, and for me, the mark on the cam is at its highest point when the timing mark is at 0.
I definitely had to remove the oil and vacuum pumps. You hit a point where they (or their lines) are in the way, so that's the obvious place to get them out of the way.
Other tricky bits: The fuel hard lines are a pain, but come off eventually. The bolt on the back of the pump also sucks. Probably 30 minutes just for that one. Felt like it anyway.
Once it was back together, it started right up. I had two immediate issues: First, the AT light would flash whenever I was idling. The slightest pressure on the pedal would make it go away. Second, I had no air conditioning.
Both problems were because I forgot to re-connect two sensors, both located on the coolant elbow.
Once I got that resolved, a longer road test revealed that the transmission was not kicking down properly. Foot to the floor would not cause a downshift, and shifts were coming early and hard. Looking at the TPS, it was rotated all the way to one side. I must have knocked it while working on the pump. I re-set to .78v, and it made the shifts a little softer, but still too early, and no kickdown. I then looked at the throttle valve (TV / kick down cable). It was way out of spec. I re-set it, and it... made no difference. Today on the ride in, I put the trans in "POWER" mode, and it started working properly. Re-reading some of the other sites, it seems that .78v is not a hard and fast rule. Lots of people just "turn it until it feels right". Which I will try tonight.