Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Hey folks,

I just went to replace the brake pads on my L400, thinking that they were in need of replacement, only to realize that they were actually fine. This surprised me a bit for a few reasons:

1. Firstly, the level of my brake fluid in the master cylinder filler had dropped from max to about the midway point between max and low. It has been that way for a while now and hasn't gone lower and there is no sign of a leak in the system anywhere.

2. Secondly, the rear brakes just recently started squeaking a bit when braking in reverse and I have never changed them.

3. In March I pulled a 12' Uhaul trailer all the way from Vancouver to Yellowknife and as soon as I hit the cold temps the front right wheel started squealing intermittently, usually when breaking, and I read this could be associated with the combo of cold temps and low pads. The sound went away as soon as the weather warmed up.

4. My braking doesn't feel super shit-hot. Not alarmingly bad by any means but just not as responsive as I think would be ideal, however, that's basically how they've always felt.

A bit of history: I replaced the front pads a little less than a year ago when one of the front callipers seized. I replaced the calliper as well. The reason I thought that the front pads may have worn that much already was I attributed it to a combination of the long drive up here and braking while towing the heavy trailer and I also thought that my front brakes were braking too much because I lifted the van a bit but haven't put a spacer in for the brake compensator valve. Basically, I put Ironman shocks in the back and the front torsion bars had been re-indexed when I bought it so I figure its about 1.5" higher all round.

My questions:

1. Any ideas what is causing the squeaking from the rear when braking in reverse and the drop in brake fluid level? Rotors are in great shape and like I said, so are the pads. The wheels spin freely.

2. Should I be adding a spacer of some kind to the compensator valve?

Appreciate your help,

Thanks.

Z

L400 have rear disks they could be low causing your low level, the rear squeak could be crap on the rotor/pad or the emergency brakes in side the disk drum combo has crap floating around inside.

Dustin

AG

as soon as I hit the cold temps the front right wheel started squealing intermittently,

I had the same problem last winter at near freezing temperatures. I changed the calipers which were sticking in the cold. At the time it seemed odd but the new calipers solved the problem.

Firstly, the level of my brake fluid in the master cylinder filler had dropped from max to about the midway point between max and low.

Same answer New calipers. Fill the master cylinder and watch for signs of brake fluid or pull the calipers and look for fluid leaks.

I replaced the front pads a little less than a year ago when one of the front callipers seized. I replaced the calliper as well.

The calipers have gone again. Lots of replaced delica calipers leak or seize. Poor quality.

Secondly, the rear brakes just recently started squeaking a bit when braking in reverse and I have never changed them.

Sticking calipers again. When the rear brakes stick more braking shifts to the front, then front rotors heat up causing the front calipers to heat and stick. Remember you towed a trailer and put more strain on your brakes. You needed to adjust the rear compensator before you headed north.

I used a laser temp probe to monitor my brake temps. The probe helps to answer your questions.

PM me if you like
TLGF
Wayne

Funny....I was going to post a question similar to this topic. I am onto my 3rd rear brake job!

I am assuming that the rear brake compensator is messed up because of the lift. The last time I checked things I looked for it but couldn't find it. Can someone out there describe where the rear brake compensator is or better yet take a quick photo of it for me....please please.

-Mark

here you go. Two bolts (12mm socket) and it slides forward/back.

Guys and Gals
Before you adjust the brake proportioning valve mark your starting point with a scribe or sharp tool. It's difficult to see where you started from or how much you moved the parts.

Mark it, adjust the valve, load the van and test the rear brakes for lockup on gravel. If both the rears lockup backoff the adjuster.

One wheel lockup means additional brake work.

Rear lockup on rain or ice is dangerous, be careful.

TLGF

Thanks! Seized caliper replaced and backed off the valve a little....the adjustment was all the way tight so I'm guessing slacking it off a little will help.