Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

OK, i know there is tonnes of info on this theme - a daily issue eally - but as a simple man I seek a simple answer - can someone point me to how to incorporate a headlight relay with DRL? I want to reduce the low beam load on the combo switch and retain a functional DRL set up. Can be reached at toddorchard007@gmail.com. many thanks. --Todd.

My solution wasn't that simple, but it does remove any load from the headlight switch, because the DRLs are entirely separate. It does involve 3 relays, but the result is a DRL that is very visible (way more than legally necessary), and even has a dash indication that it is on.

See the thread here: http://www.delica.ca/forum/drl-the-hard-way-1045.html

Since that thread I've modified the system even more, so that I can have the DRL lights simply on, and also simply off. Handy in various situations.

Not the simplest wiring. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Erebus

Thanks for this. Too complex and time consuming i'm afraid. I may just go with a decent set of auxiliary lights triggered by ignition (I like the parking brake shut off though).

Regards.

Erebus wrote:My solution wasn't that simple, but it does remove any load from the headlight switch, because the DRLs are entirely separate. It does involve 3 relays, but the result is a DRL that is very visible (way more than legally necessary), and even has a dash indication that it is on.

See the thread here: http://www.delica.ca/forum/drl-the-hard-way-1045.html

Since that thread I've modified the system even more, so that I can have the DRL lights simply on, and also simply off. Handy in various situations.

Not the simplest wiring. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Erebus

Although, I don't quite understand how the e-brake circuit fits into this?

Why don"t you simply install a relay on the low beam wire, and run a lead directly to the battery for the voltage? = no load on the switch..the relay is 3 wires. I bought 4 12V 30 Amp relays for 14.00 on e-bay shipped. I did this when I installed my HID's in my L300.

torchard wrote:Although, I don't quite understand how the e-brake circuit fits into this?

Only so that when you put the e-brake on, the DRLs turn off. Or, when starting the vehicle, the DLRs are off, so they don't get the voltage surges that are normal when starting.

bionic wrote:Why don"t you simply install a relay on the low beam wire, and run a lead directly to the battery for the voltage? = no load on the switch..the relay is 3 wires. I bought 4 12V 30 Amp relays for 14.00 on e-bay shipped. I did this when I installed my HID's in my L300.

I don't like using low beams for DLRs for two reasons:
1) if the DRLs use the low beam bulb, it increases the frequency they need to be replaced (and you know they only burn out at inconvenient times.
2) my way, when I flash the high beams at someone during daytime, all 4 bulbs (2 low, 2 high beam) come on. Your way, only the high beams come on, which is much less noticeable.

What you describe works for reducing the strain on the headlight switch, but to have the low beams work as DRLs, you still need a relay on the ignition. What you describe doesn't let you turn the headlights off, I assume you have left out some stuff out.

Yes, easy enough to run a relay triggered by the light switch but this doesn't address the wish for a DRL. Seems to me the way is to install a relay in the light circuit upstream of the DRL which leave the DRL powered by the ignition but the relay kicks in when switched at the column. I think this would keep the column switch isolated from the full light load under both circumstances. My head hurts.

Add: I suppose you could add a second relay in the DRL circuit which could then draw juice direct from battery for some extra oomph if desired. But let's face it, these lights are shit at the best of times.

torchard wrote:Yes, easy enough to run a relay triggered by the light switch but this doesn't address the wish for a DRL. Seems to me the way is to install a relay in the light circuit upstream of the DRL which leave the DRL powered by the ignition but the relay kicks in when switched at the column. I think this would keep the column switch isolated from the full light load under both circumstances. My head hurts.

I dont have to have DRL but its pretty easy to do, well except for running wires etc. Fused wire from the battery through a relay to lights, and the relay is fired by the ignition switch, nothing goes through the column switch. Unless you want to apply some logic to it as in the other thread, but even thats not hard, you just use other relays to interrupt the feed to the DRL coil.

I'm wurprised you guys dont all have a separate fuse box directly from the battery for toys anyway A 6 or 10 blade fuse block with a nice fat cable to the battery means you have easy power for a lot of stuff and it looks organised I keep meaning to but my mods haven't really called for it yet.

I have a separate fuse box for my goodies. I also put in separate relays for the lights taking the load off the switch.

If you don't want to mess with a relay run some wires to LEDs. A switch for manual control but powered by the ignition. = juice only when running and something you can turn off if you want to.

Firesong

Yes, i was looking at the various led set ups. Pretty cool and low load. But i'd prefer more lumens. Thanks.

Don't be mislead. Some of the LEDs are quite powerful. I use LEDs from can tire from the boating section. Very bright, totally sealed and can be seen at all angles. $35 each. Or you can get led lights for $75 each that throw 1570 lumens each. Low amp load. I gave up on ordering from eBay. They all burnt out or started to flicker. Same with the princess auto ones.