Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

HAs anyone checked their valve adjustment recently?

I did. 0,25 mm all around.

Why?

Andy

What was the milage on it when you happen to do it? So you're saying intake exhaust have same lash ?

Hi,
I got the van with 185000 km and they said clearence check was done recently (it was a company car). Redid it at 218.000 and two rockers were a big tight so I released them to 0.25.
Had a cracked cylinder head at 232.000 and the clearence was still in spec.

My Mitsubishi book states the same 0.25 mm all around, inlet and outlet.

Andy

Hey guys, can anyone give us a step by step to how to adjust the valves on the L300?
I've never done a valve set on such of small engines.

Thanks.

It's pretty much the same as many other engines with screw-type rocker adjusters (as opposed to shim type), only there's fewer to do.

Engines built before 1994- clearance 0.25mm checked with engine hot.
Engines after 1994- 0.15mm checked with engine cold.

Remove the rocker cover and top timing belt cover.
Turn the engine until the camshaft sprocket timing mark aligns with its pointer.
Set rockers 1,2,4,5 (counting from the front of the engine). Loosen the lock nut, screw the adjusting screw in or out, tighten the lock nut to 15Nm (11ft.lb) and re-check the clearance.
Turn the crankshaft pulley one full revolution (turns the cam pulley half a turn) and set rockers 3,6,7,8.

Full details in the workshop manual, section 11B-10-3. http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7335
(Valve clearances recommended depend on which manual you download- that link is for the pre-'94 engine. Post-'94 full workshop manual here:http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17809)

Hi I would like to adjust my valves next time my rocker cover is off, but I have a few things that don't appear clear according to the manual ... or previous discussions on this forum ...

"(1) Turn the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket" - OK that's the first step in the manual; how exactly does one do the above? Engine running?

Also the manual instructs to "warm up the engine. Then, check for valve clearance at hot engine and adjust if necessary." Is this instructing to run the engine without the valve cover mounted? I assume that would make a huge oily mess and possibly damage engine via oil starvation ... just replace the cover without redoing the sealant on the half moon?

Wrench size for lock-nut so I can make sure I'm not missing any tools before starting job?

Also the pre-94 manual says 0.15mm with cold engine, but consensus appears 0.25mm warm, but not hot, engine ... maybe I misread growler's post, but I believe I checked the right manual ...

The workshop manual assumes a lot. Here's an improved version which should answer your questions:

But in short, warm the engine up until the temperature gauge is where it normally sits, shut the engine off, and then set all the valve clearances. Don't operate the starter motor or start the engine until everything's put back together and the rocker cover sealant has cured for 24 hours.

The lock nut is either a 10mm or 12mm.

I suspect the difference in valve clearance procedures (0.15 cold vs. 0.25 warm) simply came about because people were complaining about having to warm the engine up first. Setting it to 0.15 cold *should* result in 0.25 once everything's warmed up, but it's the warm clearance that's critical so it's safest to set it when the engine's warm.

(The original version of the workshop manual says step 2 is to "set the idle speed and check injection timing" before adjusting the valve clearances, which is completely bogus. Neither of those things effects the valve clearance in the slightest.)