Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Finally have my Delica registered, insured and on the road, BUT...


FIRST:
It is really hard to get going sometimes (ie. repeated long cranking sessions) then idles VERY rough for a minute or two, then finally settles in to a stable idle. It also takes several minutes (3-5) of driving to achieve normal throttle response. Until then, throttle response is VERY sluggish, especially in 1st gear.

It doesn't do this all the time. It did exactly as described yesterday morning, but today, it started well, but suffered the same poor throttle response.

MardyDelica has suggested to me that this may be caused by dirty/plugged injectors. I'm considering having the injectors serviced and the injection pump timing checked, but before I do, I'm looking for additional opinions.

SECOND:
Clutch behavior is odd. Its hard to get in gear sometimes, espcially 1st from a stop. It goes in to gear MUCH easier when the van is facing up-hill on an incline. Ideas?
I am going to look for a Centerforce II clutch (had on in my Toyota van and liked it a lot), but if anyone knows a part number off hand, or a compatible North American vehicle/part # to aid my search, that would be great.

Darryl

Have you changed the fuel filter yet? Start with that. Have you checked the glow plugs? It will still fire on 2 good glowplugs, just not very well like you decribed. Do these inexpensive things first and then start getting more specific. I had a bad batch of diesel before and it made the van slugish in the low gears. I drained the tank, changed the fuel filter and used a boicide in the next full tank and it stopped acting that way.
Hope this helps.

Thanks.

The fuel filter was (supposedly) changed while in the shop at HVI. It has been filled once, from empty, since it arrived from Japan. Filled at Mohawk.

I'll have a look at the glow plugs when I can. Hard? Easy? I'm pretty OK with this type of work, but this is my first deisel engine.

Use some biocide anyway, it will help. Racor brand is good and is under $30 at NAPA. To test the glow plugs (easiest way) it losen all the top nuts 7mm I think, slide the busbar out and remove the plugs with a 12mm deep socket. If you have a battery booster pack hold the the non threaded part but not the tip with the negative clamp then place the positive clamp on the top of the plug. Within seconds it will either start smoking then glowing or it won't. No smoke and glow = dead plug. Make sure you are some where safe and away from flamable material. Oh yea, you can use a multi meter but that wouldn't be any fun.

Am I just looking for continuity with a meter? or is there a specific resistance?

Hi PolyTek, the Tardis Deli was getting a bit hard to start, cause fuel pump leaking a bit (gasket probably -- causes a loss of pressure in the pressured fuel system) also 2 injectors were very dirty. We talked to Mardy, then met him & his pal Butch who owns CVI automotive in Richmond (Shell Road). Popped it up on the hoist, we all had a good poke about (Mardy & Butch taught us a fantastic amount). They fixed it all (only did what we wanted fixed, shop rate very reasonable). I liked the fact that both Mardy & Butch kept us in the loop with emails and phone calls, and especially that one place does it all (injectors, pumps, physical & mechanical) so you know when its fixed that you don't have 2 different mechanics later saying the problem is with whichever parts the "other" mechanic fixed. Highly recommended. Cheers, Christine of the Tardis Deli.

PolyTek wrote:Am I just looking for continuity with a meter? or is there a specific resistance?

They are going to read almost a short circuit, under 1 ohm. Glow plugs are usually tested by measuring the current they draw. I can't find any specs, but anything less than 10 amps per plug would raise alarms with me.

I assume your glow plug controller is working properly and you are using correct starting procedures? An initial rough idle is common - the engine sort of catches, shakes a bit, then really catches. You need to be generous with your right foot in cold weather.

...laura

I am having significant issues starting when I am up on Mt. Washington. After leaving the van over night I have to crank and crank and crank like you Polytek. The only way it will finally go is if I hold the starter on for close to 20+ seconds...and that is after cranking a number of times and glow plugging the heck out it. Total time getting the van going is about 15 minutes. Once is goes it runs smooth and starts again no problem...a little different than your symptom. Is your van cold...like left outside over night in sub zero temperatures? If not I would hold off on changing things like glow plugs. Make sure that you have close to 10V or more on your bus bar during the first click of the glow plugs (should be around 10V for about 3-4 seconds). If you have close to this voltage level for 3-4 seconds then likely the glow plugs, relays and control circuit is fine and is likely something else. I jumped into glow plugs and that was a $200 mistake.

What I have done so far in trying to figure this out and have crossed off the list.
-Glow Plug circuit...check, no blown caps or traces and operation is expected.
-Glow Plug Relays...check, expected voltage levels etc.
-Glow Plugs...check, I replaced them thinking this had to be the problem...$200 later no change.
-I compared all voltage levels on the glow plug bus bar and the timing of Relay A and B to warmland89's which has no problems starting in the cold of Mt. Washington. Everything is the same.
-coolant temperature sensor that goes to the glow plug controller changed and is now working....no change.
-compression test...check, all cylinders the same and within allowable range.
-Fuel filter...check? It was supposedly changed like Polytek's. I don't think this is it as I have no real fuel filter symptoms once the van starts.
-Heavy Duty injector cleaner from Marigold...check, this stuff is supposed to be the only stuff that actually cleans the injectors.

Polytek do you have black smoke under load? I do and I believe that this almost the only thing left that could be the problem with the starting issue and smoke. Specifically, either the Injection Pump timing is out of whack or the entire pump is out of whack. I am having the timing checked and adjusted on Thursday. I'll let you know if that has fixed the problem.

Yikes lots of words...got to be complete though!

-Mark

So, the hard starts occur after an overnight lapse, but don't seem to be associated with cold temperatures. I'm in Coquitlam. Temp has not been below zero over the last week.

I have lotsa black smoke under load until the vehicle is quite warm, ie. around 5 minutes of driving.

I will try to look at the glow plugs. If they aren't heating properly, that would mean uncombusted fuel accumulating in 1 or 2 cylinders over the long time it take to get the vehicle to catch on 2 or 3 good cylinders. That would leave excess fuel to be burnt, resulting in black smoke and the knock I hear as well.

Waddaya all think?

Do you hear a knock while starting or after, while in gear and moving? Does it feel like you can floor it but nothing happens and when enogh pressure is built it finallly takes off? If it is while you are moving, I had that issue and thought it was either my transmission or engine. It was bad fuel like I mentioned above. I filled both my vehicles at the same pump on the same day and both had the same reaction. I was super stressed until I drove my 2nd vehicle a day later and it happened also. I realized that the chances of both vehicles transmissons or engine making a knocking noise and not having any power meant something else. If this is the same problem you have try the biocide.

Try draining some fuel from both tanks into a ice cream bucket, your van may have sat for a while with a little diesel degrading in the tanks. I preach this because horrible fuel dripped out of all the fresh Delicas I've tried it on. With all that cranking your doing it would be safe to assume you have a new battery (like DelicaMark who can crank for 15 mins, now that's a strong battery)?

If you do decide to replace your glow plugs, consider importing them from England and save some $$$$. AND don't go WVO to you get to the bottom of your starting issues, throw a little veggie into your system and you wouldn't get it started in the morning.

Good luck

The Deli was very empty when I picked it up from BNX, and I'd imagine it sat for at least 2 months with very little fuel in it, cuz that's how long it was from my purchase to it's arrival.

I will definitely try some biocide. I'm not really clear on what biocide does exactly, and how it's function compares to diesel conditioner/lubricant. I assume these are NOT the same thing.

It started OK yesterday, and the same today. No looooong cranking, just a kinda rough.

Do you hear a knock while starting or after, while in gear and moving?

Knock occurs under load, but I've only really experience that once. Vehicle was in neutral warming up.

Does it feel like you can floor it but nothing happens and when enogh pressure is built it finallly takes off?

This is a very accurate description of what is happening until the vehicle is warmed up (5 min. or driving).

I'm off to get some biocide tonight.

I know that Lordco stocks some Racor Biocide if that helps.

-Mark

Yep, there's one six blocks from my house, Clarke @ Smith...

So, I've not had much trouble starting since the addition of the biocide (I also added some ?Standtyne? lubricity formula. Power seems to be there right from start-too, but idle feels rough to me, but I'm really not sure what "normal" is on these things. Idle RPM hovers just under 750. Definitely shaky at idle, but constant.

D