Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

So I tried to install a boost gauge and then my van wouldn't start. Charged up the batteries only to find it happen again. I then tested the parasitic drain and my draw was over 3 amps coming from my boost gauge. I disconnected and now have a draw of .08 amps. I have read that anything over .05 amps is considered excessive.

I pulled all the fuses and nothing changed. Does anyone have any ideas or is .08A acceptable?
Should I start removing leads from the positive battery terminal to narrow it down?

Other info that may or may not help (I really don't know much about electrical):
I have a turbo timer
No alarm
The lights were rewired by the previous owner when the combination switch failed and are now controlled by manual switches
My reverse lights (both in the taillights and additional ones on the bumper) do not work.
I have many electrical gremlins (central locking sometimes rapidly fires locked and unlocked), I can hear maybe a relay flickering rapidly sometimes from under/in the dash, ebrake light does not turn off, sometimes when i step on the brake or turn the wipers on the radio will shut off)

I have a '92 super exceed.

Start fresh, removed everything that you know isn't working.
Are you saying that without the key in the ignition you still have draw..? Doors are open,, thats a amp draw, cabin lights.. another draw... double check your work throughly and let us know!

0.08A is about 1W, conveniently close to the power a dashboard warning light uses. You say the brake warning light won't turn off? That's your 1W right there. (The brake warning light also comes on if the brake fluid level is too low- check that.)

That said- removing all the fuses should have turned off the warning light, at least. It sounds like the previous owner wasn't very good at wiring. I'd suspect the turbo timer, try pulling the turbo timer's fuse and see what happens.

Sorry I wasn't very specific.

This was with the keys off and the door closed. The ebrake light is only on when the vehicle is on.

.08 amps sounds about right for your stero memory/clock draw

Update:

I found the original source of the 2-3A draw. My EGT signal wire was shorting out with the brake light switch.

I also removed an unused speaker wire going to the back of the vehicle and my draw is now down to .06-.07.

EDIT: and I think its the Turbo timer that is contributing to a higher draw as it has a red light when the keys are out.