Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Can anyone recommend a shop in Vancouver to mix paint into aerosol cans for me? I have the paint code (green L400) and need to do some "touch up" on my roof...dang low hanging pipe in my parking garage...

I can't help with the paint, but that photo makes me cringe. You got lucky- that's so close to all that expensive glass!

Lordco Westwood ave port Coquitlam

Growlerbearnz wrote:I can't help with the paint, but that photo makes me cringe. You got lucky- that's so close to all that expensive glass!

I know, I went from nearly a heart attack, to a huge sigh of relief when my windows didn't get touched!

FalcoColumbarius wrote:As these wagons typically have a base coat/clear coat system ~ unless you are through the green to the primer ~ I'd recommend getting a spray can of acrylic clear coat. I think most auto supply shops ought to carry this but also auto paint shops, such as White & Peters, should carry this product.

Falco.

What can I use to clean it up before I use clear coat? There's also reddish paint from the pipe clamps on the surface of my paint

I'd use a maroon scotch pad. It's a fine abrasive that'll clean the scratches up in preparation for painting. They should be sold at the same place that puts paint in the can.

I'd recommend protecting the area around the scratches with masking tape, to save you accidentally making more scratches.

stever1000 wrote:

FalcoColumbarius wrote:As these wagons typically have a base coat/clear coat system ~ unless you are through the green to the primer ~ I'd recommend getting a spray can of acrylic clear coat. I think most auto supply shops ought to carry this but also auto paint shops, such as White & Peters, should carry this product.

Falco.

What can I use to clean it up before I use clear coat? There's also reddish paint from the pipe clamps on the surface of my paint

I'd use a degreaser and apply it with a white rag or a micro-fibre cloth* to clean the surface. I'd "key" the surface with 400 grit Wet and Dry paper (spray bottle of water is handy, make sure the surface is dry & clean before you paint). Take care not to sand through the base coat (colour) as it will not be as strong as the clear. The Scotchbrite pads can be useful but you have to take care that you don't use them with solvents as the colour in the pads will run. For masking tape I'd use one and an half inch blue tape, you can get this at a paint store, like Cloverdale Paint, and use butcher's paper under the outside edge of the tape to prevent over-spray, the paint store should have the paper, as well.

Not sure how far you want to go with this ~ if you want the patch to completely disappear then I wouldn't mask a hard edge, as you will have a hard edge to sand back and this can be tricky to avoid sanding through the original clear that you are trying to blend into. As the spray bombs are pretty directional, anyway ~ I'd protect anything close, like glass &c., that you don't want touched, spray the clear over the desired area and sand it back starting with 1000 grit W/D (wet), going to 1200, to 1500, to 2000 grit to blend the patch with the existing clear, then finish it off with a cutting wax. A paint shop would probably repaint the whole roof panel. Read the can and follow the instructions. This is how I would address the project.

By the way, this is not a science, it's an art. Be observant to what you are doing. When you are sanding back to blend ~ be aware of how consistent the finish is: Spray water onto the surface you are sanding but wipe it off periodically and let it dry a little so you can see how consistent your work is. When it looks consistent is when I would move to the finer grit. Use your smarts, it's you doing this work.

Falco.

*Test the microfibre cloth with the solvent to see if the color will run before you use it.

thelazygreenfox wrote:Lordco Westwood ave port Coquitlam

Can any lordco do it, or only this one?

FalcoColumbarius wrote:

stever1000 wrote:

FalcoColumbarius wrote:As these wagons typically have a base coat/clear coat system ~ unless you are through the green to the primer ~ I'd recommend getting a spray can of acrylic clear coat. I think most auto supply shops ought to carry this but also auto paint shops, such as White & Peters, should carry this product.

Falco.

What can I use to clean it up before I use clear coat? There's also reddish paint from the pipe clamps on the surface of my paint

I'd use a degreaser and apply it with a white rag or a micro-fibre cloth* to clean the surface. I'd "key" the surface with 400 grit Wet and Dry paper (spray bottle of water is handy, make sure the surface is dry & clean before you paint). Take care not to sand through the base coat (colour) as it will not be as strong as the clear. The Scotchbrite pads can be useful but you have to take care that you don't use them with solvents as the colour in the pads will run. For masking tape I'd use one and an half inch blue tape, you can get this at a paint store, like Cloverdale Paint, and use butcher's paper under the outside edge of the tape to prevent over-spray, the paint store should have the paper, as well.

Not sure how far you want to go with this ~ if you want the patch to completely disappear then I wouldn't mask a hard edge, as you will have a hard edge to sand back and this can be tricky to avoid sanding through the original clear that you are trying to blend into. As the spray bombs are pretty directional, anyway ~ I'd protect anything close, like glass &c., that you don't want touched, spray the clear over the desired area and sand it back starting with 1000 grit W/D (wet), going to 1200, to 1500, to 2000 grit to blend the patch with the existing clear, then finish it off with a cutting wax. A paint shop would probably repaint the whole roof panel. Read the can and follow the instructions. This is how I would address the project.

By the way, this is not a science, it's an art. Be observant to what you are doing. When you are sanding back to blend ~ be aware of how consistent the finish is: Spray water onto the surface you are sanding but wipe it off periodically and let it dry a little so you can see how consistent your work is. When it looks consistent is when I would move to the finer grit. Use your smarts, it's you doing this work.

Falco.

*Test the microfibre cloth with the solvent to see if the color will run before you use it.

Great info - thanks Falco. I hope to tackle this soon :)

Can any lordco do it, or only this one?

The other Lordcos local all pointed to this one but phone and check it out.
MD