Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Hi Everyone,

Who else is having this same rust issue? Other than myself and Green1.

There is rust crawling out from under the rear window seal and I'm wondering if anyone knows why it does in these particular spots and what the best fix is. Remove the rear window? Will the seal survive? If not where do I get a new one? Are there other places that should be tended to while the rear window is out? It's cold on the prairies and if the back window is coming out it's not going to be for too long!

Hey Robin..

Looks like more than one spot in the second pic. My guess would be to ask a window shop in the spring.

You could have them remove the window, so you could scrape and sand the rust away to base metal. Then wash with Rustmort or other phosphoric acid rust remover (see canadian tire or?) to base steel and wash with water to get rid of the rustmort.

Dry warm, fill with epoxy filler and sand to flat surface( wet 400 grit for epoxy).

Drry warm and paint with white (?) tremclad (spray or brush). Give the paint a little time to harden and reinstall the window !

Failing that, if you find more spots ask a body shop.

Small spots like that aren't hard to fill, sand and paint . You'll never know till you remove the window.

As a temp solution rub the rust off with Vim or Brasso. It may look good enough till the spring.

take care
Thelazybrownfox

It is a common problem. I have seen some 92 that have a special "vent" design that I thing addresses that problem. Please let us know what you end up doing and good luck.

I don't have any rust yet, but I have 2 little dimples just under my rear window that look likethey are in the same exact spots as your rust. I didn't think the dimples were original, but couldn't figure out how they got there. Anyone know what they are and if they are standard? Haven't had a chance to check on anyone elses rear ends.

Hi, that 2 dimple thing in the back of newer 1992 starting i guess sept 1992 back Trunk lid, its design for that so it take out the moisture which eventually latter became a rust spot .
they upgrade this trunk lid.
cheers;

If I take out the window and fix the rust is there something that I can/should do to prevent it from happening again? What exactly did they do on the 92's? Is the problem caused by water collecting between the window seal and the door and not being able to get out? Maybe a couple of drain holes under the seal where the rust is originating and then paint it all up and put it back together?

If there are more ideas I would like to hear them before I start into this project.

Thanks,

well to be honest, if you do the fix above with the sanding and filling and painting and all that it will be just like new so you should get about 15 more years out of it :)

rust

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when done

Excellant! Thanks for the pictures. Did you do this yourself? If so how was it to get out the back window? Was a new seal used?

I just remove the window for myself.....it's very easy,just use a screwdriver to push the rubber seal to push the glass out(you better with another person help you hold the glass at the other side).After you done the rush .You can use a string all around inside the gap of the rubber seal. And you will need another person to hold the glass from outside. it's better to use some soap. Then, you pull the string from inside. You can use your old rubber if it's still soft.

I notice that the spots line up nicely with the ends of the wiper blades. I would suspect that water flowing off the blade concentrate in those spots.

Another good temporary fix to get rid of the rust stains on the paint is a product called Krud Kutter - safe and available at the home despot.

As Mardy says, later model L300's had two dimples along the underside of the screen to act as a drain - allowing water running around the inside of the screen rubber to escape. A lot of the L300 I have seen without these dimples have got some degree of rust in those locations. I have yet to see an L300 with the dimples suffer from any rust in those areas?

If you do want to sure it, the removing the rear screen is the only real solution (as shown by Trapshooter) but whatever you do...DO NOT push on the window or add any pressure as you pop the seal - this could well cause the screen to break! Gradually work your way around the seal from the inside feeding it over the lip (best to start across the top, down both sides then across the bottom from inside the vehicle) while someone holds the window from the outside to prevent it dropping. They must not put any pressure on the glass - simply support it as it comes out.

Trapshooter is spot on about refitting - run some string/coated wire around the inside of the seal and squirt some washing up liquid around the rubber to make it more slippery. Pull steadily and carefully and if the string gets caught, don't start pulling hard because you'll only slice through the rubber!

The other thing to consider is doing this in a warm environment/on a hot summers day! The rubber will be a lot softer and more maleable when it is warm - which will make the job a lot easier and less chance of tearing/splitting the seal.

One last thing - it might be worth borrowing or even buying some suction handles for your helper to hold the glass properly. This will make his job a lot easier and minimise any pressure he may put on the screen. You can buy then quite cheap from DIY stores....