Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Hi guys
I am having trouble finding the torshion bars. I have read all the notes on the topic but cant figure how to get started. I also have to fix my horn. could some one give me a starting point on where to look for the horn and where are the fuses? I have a lot to learn.


Thanks
Trav

This is for the Pajero but the same concept should apply to the Delica:
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51973

http://www.monterosport.net/page8.html

Hope this helps, I assume you want to raise the front of your Delica, don't raise it more than 1 1/2 inches.

Hi Trav,

I did just write a fairly lengthy and detailed response for you, but for some reason, my computer just decided to close the page before I'd finished!!! (hopping mad is an undertatement!!! )

Here is a picture I knocked up tonight to help explain what to do. Look for this part under the car a few feet back from the front wheel on the drivers side. (passenger side harder to find - tucked between the fuel tank and sidestep....)



(A) = turn the adjuster nut this way to raise the torison bar adjuster arm UP (B) which increases the rotational tension in the torsion bar (C) which in turn pushes the upper suspension arm DOWN to give you lift and a firmer ride, better handling and better braking (less nosedive)

(D) = turn the adjuster nut this way to lower the torison bar adjuster arm DOWN (E) which decreases the rotational tension in the torsion bar (F) which in turn releases the pressure on the upper suspension arm and lowers the vehicle to give you a softer ride, softer handling and worse braking (more nosedive)

Sorry for the brief version - I'll give you a more thorough version (again) tomorrow when I've clamed down a bit!

I also explained about the horn but lost that too, so if you don't mind, I'll cover this tomorrow too.....

Been a LONG weekend (ALL weekend re-designing a complicated major component of my lift kit! ) and I think I just need to go to bed.... :lol:

See you tomorrow.....

Bruce.

Hi Bruce

Thanks so much for the info. sory you lost your post. Thanks for your help this will help me big time :D :D :D

Il check back.
Trav.

Shepherd wrote:Il check back.

I have managed to find some info I wrote about torsion bars a while ago: CLICK HERE. This might be of some help??

If you don't make the special 'torsion bar socket' tool mentioned in that post, then I find 17mm ring spanners best for the drivers side and 17mm open ended for the passenger side.

Are you looking to go lift the motor back to 'standard' ride height or jack the front up even more?? Either way, I'll bet the passenger side is sitting slightly lower than the driver’s side? If not, you are lucky! :lol:

If you are going back to ‘standard’ height, then adjust the torsion bars until the clearance/distance between the upper bumpstop and the upper suspension arm is the same as the picture below:



To do the torsion bars even higher, I usually park the motor on flat level ground and measure the height of the centre of the wheelarch directly above the centre of the wheel. Do this for the rear of the vehicle first to get a comparison of how low the front is. I always measure the distance from the centre of the wheel hub to the bottom edge of the centre of the wheelarch.

Once you have the height of the rear, measure the front so you know how far to come up. You don’t want the front to be higher than the rear, so bear this in mind…. ;)

Under the vehicle (and using the photo I posted last night!) crack off the lock nut a few turns then measure the distance from the bottom of the adjuster nut to the bottom of the adjuster bar (the long threaded bar)

Adjust the nut up anywhere between 10mm and 15mm then tighten up the lock nut. 10mm adjustment equates to 15-25mm of lift (depending on how worn/sagging your torsion bars are!) Do the same for the other side, but if this side was lower, then add a little more adjustment to try and make it more even…..

Now take the motor for a 5 – 10 mile drive to let it all settle down and come back to the flat/level ground and re-check your measurements. You may need to adjust them a few times in this way until you are happy with the ride height….

As mentioned in my other post (not the one above, but the one I’ve linked to) you may need to cut the upper bump stops down if you lift the torsion bars a lot – but this is a really easy job! 8)

Once you have finished adjusting the torsion bars, make double sure that the lock nuts are nice & tight and everything is sitting nice & level…..now enjoy a better ride and better braking! :D

Regards,

Bruce.

Thanks Bruce I am going to give it a go. Whith your info and the post by Ronin I think I can figure things out. Hey do you have any advice on how to fix my horn. How does the cover come off on my stering wheele? is this where I should check first. Where is the horn?
Thanks for your help. :D

Trav

Shepard,

My Pajero had 2 horns installed and a toggle switch on the dash between them. The up position for the aftermarket horn, the center was off and the lower for the original horn. My Pajero failed inspection because it appeared that there wasn't a horn, but in actual fact the switch was in the center position. I didn't know what the switch was untill I opened the hood and realized the was another horn mounted under the original. Maybe check that first.

the flat/level ground

DOH! you just HAD to add that qualifier didn't you... I think I'll have to suck up to a friend and borrow THEIR flat/level ground, 'cuz I certainly don't have any of that stuff around here!

Hey green1. All I have here in saskatchewan is flat level ground :lol:

Oh and by the way that tip from bruce about the 17 mm socket is great. I made one and I can see that it is going to work great. I will do the job tomorow.

Trav