Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

If any one can send me info on 1991 Delica stock tire size would really appreciate
it.I'm going to costco for new tires on Oct 13 and they will not mount them unless
i have proof of the correct tire size and also the lug nut torque spec.I know this sounds weird but its costco policy(warranty) Thanks

1988 Mitsubishi Montero

Mitsu manufacture specs on the axle hubs / tires / nuts are identical.

They have it in their system.

Mitsubishi Starwagon Manual tire size : 215SR15

I was told by Costco in Calgary that if the spec's were not plaquered on the body or door frame, it was a no-go to have them done there. The stock tire size of 215X80X15 is an oddball size not common in NA tires as well so if it was mounted in the door frame, they would not have that size anyway (and you would have to pick another tire that is within 3% of that size). I suspect if you don't have something official looking, they won't touch your vehicle.

In the end I had KAL Tire mount 235/75R15 Nokian Vativa's for $35.00 less per tire than Costco wanted for Michelin's and as far as I'm concerned they are hands down the best tire currently available for the Deli, the difference between them and the Geolanders was very noticable in my case, and I have an LSD rear end.

Refer to this informative post:
http://www.delica.ca/forum/where-are-yo ... tml#p25332

The Delica manual says 215/80R15, and you are not going to find those easily, if at all, on this side of the Pacific.

Like many Delicas, Gumdrop came with a set of 235/75R15 tires. The originals were shot, according to the Shaken papers. They are currently a no-name all-season tire ("Ensign") manufactured by Goodyear, which did extremely well in the snow last winter.

Kal Tire also recommended Nokian tires when they fixed a flat for me. I'm planning to take the current tires through one more winter, looking to replace them for winter 09/10.

...laura

On the subject of lug nut torque setting, most places use 100 ft/lb, but Butch at CVI says you should use 80 lb/ft, and as with other people on this forum, I'll take Butch's word as gospel.

Hey this is cool - finally a chance to use the torque wrench I bought 20 years ago. Looking forward to my next tire rotation even more now. I never thought of actually checking the torque of my lug nuts - I always just do them up "snug" That is tight, but undoable! Anyone ever had to fix a flat way back-a-beyond somewhere only to find the guy with the impact gun at the tire shop had blasted the nuts on the lugs waaay too tight?! And some vehicles seem to get progressively and continually tighter as the clicks accumulate. My old VW bus was like that. Really bad. To the point I needed a long pipe and a rockin' big breaker bar as my lug wrench and often had to jump on the end of that!

I too have had to jump on a 6' breaker bar to get the nuts off. Then a come-along to get the wheel off the hub. BTW, it is recommended to re-check the torque after about 100 km. Mine were all fine except 2 nuts that had come slightly loose. The re-check is more important on large vehicles and/or aluminum rims, but still recommended on vehicles the size of the Deli.

I had to use a pipe extension to get a wheel off when I did my shocks a few weeks ago, and snapped the lug (which had previously been put on with an impact wrench) right off. I must admit though, I use my electric impact for the wheels, too lazy to do them by hand.

Erebus wrote:On the subject of lug nut torque setting, most places use 100 ft/lb, but Butch at CVI says you should use 80 lb/ft, and as with other people on this forum, I'll take Butch's word as gospel.

The problem with doing your lugs at 80 ft. lbs. is you will be doing them to that again in a few days time, that is if you are riding on alloy rims (can't speak for steel at this point). Too many times have I found myself in the bush with a queer wobbling feeling, get out and discover that I can tighten ALL of my lug nuts with my fingers (and I am not the man of steel). I can do without this. I insist that they go on at 100 ft. lbs. Especially if you are using forest service roads that are bumpy and vibrate your wagon. I check my lugs once a month ~ just like the truckers do.

Falco.

torque to 80ftlbs .

re torque to 100ftlbs after driving the next day

All the manuals (JDM, Russek, etc.) say something in the range of 100 foot-pounds, though they generally quote torque in newton-meters and/or meter-kilograms. This seems about right for a largish vehicle.

I always use a torque wrench when doing anything at home with wheels (or with just about anything else, for that matter). It's standard practice to retorque alloy wheels, since they don't have the "spring" of steel wheels.

...laura

It's standard practice to retorque alloy wheels, since they don't have the "spring" of steel wheels.

Mmmm, does this mean the torque specs. for steel wheels are different, or that it's just not as critical as for alloy? Our bus is one of the few with steel wheels (only one I've seen so far). Just curious...

steelies I'd do 90-100 and that's it

alloy/alu I'd do 80 and 100 the following day or later.