Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

So Mardy and I (Mostly Mardy) have determined that the oil stain I was talking about way back when was from a leaky seal in my transmission.
Would the lack of oil pressure in the transmission be the reason I'm having such a long cranking time?

This is really bothering me cause I'v had this problem forever now. The things that I'v covered are: (please dont repeat)
-fuel injector rebuilt
-"deli tune up"
-new batteries/500 cca each
-had alternator checked
-block heater installed

Things that are left:
- glow plugs
-glow plug recoil
-glow plug "gold box"
-starter

Can any one think of any other reason. I do know that engines in general need pressure to start, but I dont know if its needed in the transmission, thats why I asked about the seal. Mostly leaks on start up/not a large leak.
Smoke is white/grey colored. (why i thinks its the glow plugs) and engine runs nice and smooth once started.
Its not even that cold here. Coldest i think was -7 very recently but have had problems from +10 till now.

oil won't stop you from starting unless it's thicker than molasses...

I'd go for the plugs next... beyond that you could have some form of a timing issue with the fuel injection system, but really the glow plugs seem most likely.

So I went and checked out the glow plugs just now. All 4 green tops looked good, but then when I really got in there the back sides of them were brown. Now I couldn't tell if it was a burnt brown or dirty brown but I'm assuming either way browns bad?
Anyways I also wanted to check the clicking on and off of the glow plugs. I cycled them about 4 times and the clicking got faster each time. Which I'm assuming means that they are heating up or at least a sensor or something thinks there heating up.
I was reading a diesel diagnostics webpage (posted the link a week ago) and it said that if the glow plugs are burnt it means your having an injection timing problems, like you said green^
Any how, would that have been caught when fuel injector was cleaned and rebuilt? I think I'm missing something big here.

Any how, would that have been caught when fuel injector was cleaned and rebuilt?

That all depends, the timing is mostly a matter of the reinstallation procedure, if the pump was removed and cleaned/rebuilt, but then put back in and not properly adjusted it could easilly have timing issues still.
Also, did they do the pump? or the injector nozzles? or both?

The pump was rebuilt (it was leaky) and the nozzles were cleaned. Entire thing done at CVI, maybe ill shoot them a pm and ask if timing was adjusted.
How much would I be lookin at shop/labour wise $$$$$?
thanks for replying so quick green

The plugs can be done with nothing wrong with the rest of motor. They last a long time, but are replaceble items - like belts, filters and brakes. Here's hoping scewing 4 new ones into your head will get that motoring firing up like it should. Let us know how it goes

but if the timing is off wont it just fry the plug right away again?

If you did the Delica Tune at CVI then they should have made sure your IP pump timing was done as part of the package. Give em a call they stand behind their work if it has anything to do with what they have done, if it is something unrelated then they will probably give you some advise.

patty wrote:Things that are left:
- glow plugs

-glow plug "gold box"

patty wrote:Smoke is white/grey colored. (why i thinks its the glow plugs) and engine runs nice and smooth once started.

You just answered your own question.

I'm surprised they didn't check the plugs and ECU.

Hard starting, white/grey smoke but runs fine otherwise is a symptom of fowled glowplugs, air in the fuel system or not the proper voltage hitting them (ECU).

Just got confirmation from CVI that the timing was done. So you guys are right, its the glow plugs and or the ECU. I know how to change the glow plugs (dont have a wrench or socket small enough yet). What would I be checking on the ECU? or would that be a job for some one who knew what they were doing?

Thanks for the quick responses, hopefully I can finally get this issue off my plate.

Replace the plugs first and then test.

The ECU (internal) is a job for most electricians.

K, I'll head down to napa later today
I was just readin an old thread on here about replacing the glow plug board (gold box) but they were talking about not hearing clicking and what not, i definatly am hearing all that. Hopefully its just the plugs as I am POOR!

patty wrote: Hopefully its just the plugs as I am POOR!

Would suggest testing each plug to see if you really need to replace all 4 if coinage is scant.

Alright got right down too it this afternoon with couple socket wrenches and some WD-40...How the F do you get these guys unscrewed?
I know your not suppose to force them but how else. I cant believe how tight they are. Even if I wanted to force them there isn't enough room to get any leverage?

Any one got a good technique?

PS- If any one else is doing this do it before it gets cold. I'm pretty sure its a thousand times worse when your fingers freeze to everything.

some things you can try...
- soak 'em in WD-40 for several hours
- try with the engine warm instead of cold
- apply lots of torque, but very carefully, because there's nothing worse than trying to get one out once it's sheared off!