Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Just came back from a trip to the Icefields, first since GCL Fuel Systems in Calgary tuned up the fuel system by setting the timing, and pressure on the IP. While they said my timing was pretty much on the mark, they found the IP was 30 lbs low and reset it to the correct pressure (I think they said 75lbs). They had previously rebuilt my injectors about a month previously.

Climbing over Bow Summit and the Icefields I noticed a significant increase in power, and my overall fuel consumption was 11.6l/100km in spite of all the gear on the roof, the mountain passes, driving at times in 4WD, and quite a bit of idling while camping. That seems to be an improvement of roughly 2l/100km over the previous mileage I was getting.

It would seem that increasing the IP pressure to spec has made quite a difference. The only thing I still have an issue with is black smoke when accelerating from a stop or on hills.

Good to hear!

Might want to try blocking your EGR. I did that on my 2nd van and what a difference. I was actually ashamed to drive that van 'cause it smoked pretty bad while starting from a standstill. Now I no longer have smoke, van runs better as well. You could also simply try to clean it but after seeing all the junk inside the EGR, I'm not too keen to see all that crap going inside my engine...

I've been wondering if the EGR should be my last resort, as I've pretty much covered all the other bases. I remember reading the post on doing it and it looked a bit intimidating, and I recall some other posts saying it didn't help, so it's good to hear it has helped some. I'll go back and find that 'how to' that I think Bruce posted. I'm going to tackel it then! Thanks.

Hm...

I can't seem to find that EGR Blocking tutorial using common search terms, does anyone remember where it is?

Also, do you still have any plates available Delicat? I guess they are simple enough to make with the right material, a few suitable tools and a bench grinder.

Might be intimidating, until you get started and it's all quite easy. I'd say 3 out of 10, 10 being ugly...

Here it is:
http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37
http://www.delica.ca/forum/closing-off- ... -1193.html

Get yourself a blocking plate, if you were near by I'd have one for you but you can easily make one yourself.
Good luck!

Thanks for that. Now that I found it, here is the conclusion posted by DelicMark that has me wondering what is best?

It seems to make sense to me (and I am sure other people have said this too) that a clean properly working EGR valve is as good as disabling it. The valve is normally closed so if you take it out to inspect and clean it, the valve should be closed. If it is stuck open then that could be causing some smoke. If you can't unstuck it for some reason then disabling it by blanking it off will stop the exhaust gases from being recirculated and likely help. I really question the results people have had by blanking off the EGR valve if the valve was actually fully operational in the first place. It seems like a nearly impossible result to me.

Remove your EGR and take a look inside. If you don't mind that what you find in your EGR makes its way into your engine than clean it back and make sure it still works properly before putting it back together.

If like me what you found in your EGR scared you then block it off and call it a day! Go on the UK forum and read some more. There's pros and cons with both ways. One of my Delica doesn't smoke at all and runs great (also has less mileage) and I haven't done it yet. My other Delica was the smoky one, EGR now blanked and smoke gone. That one was also running a bit rough for the first 10 min in the morning but as soon as I blocked the EGR it ran better. Not sure if it makes any sense but its what it is.

So try cleaning it if you're not sure or go ahead and block it and enjoy your clean ride. Either way should work.

OK, thanks David. Think I'll just block it. Looks like the first task will be to find some suitable material to make the plate from, probably my best bet is to get the welder at work to give me a hand to fabricate something.

I think my comment is still correct...BUT I do still have mine blanked. Mine was really gross and that is why I decided to blank it off too...BUT in my case it did not get rid of the black smoke.

Assuming that the EGR is not stuck open (mine was not and it was completely caked with crap) one thing that you can try is to pull off the vacuum line that controls the valve. The valve is normally closed so theoritically doing this should disable the EGR in the closed position. Then you can see if it makes a difference.

If you are going to blank it, get a blanking plate from the UK site...maybe get two as I dropped one in the engine compartment and never saw it again .

That sounds like a good idea, I'll give that a try, it would sure save a lot of work. In the pictures it looks like the EGR is right under the cross member panel that the emergency brake is on. If you remove the driver's seat and that cross bar does that make it easier than going the other route? I've taken that bar out numerous times, in fact I think I recall taking it out just to adjust the squeaky belts.

THanks for the suggestion.

I tried to disconnect the plug that attaches to the back firewall and runs to the vacuum line (there's two plugs side by side). Doing this should be the same as removing the vacuum line. It didn't really help with the smoke, not until I blanked it off.

DelicaMark, if yours still smoke it might be your IP...

OK, will watch for that, thanks.

I agree on the I diagnosis, since I did my injectors and IP, the only black smoke seems to be when I first accelerate from a stop, to increase speed, or to climb a hill. Once I am climbing there is no more black smoke. I know there have been a lot of posts about IP rebuilds and problems here, but I was somewhat suprised to learn my IP pressure was almost half of what it should be, and timing was not my problem after all. I must have not read the posts closely enough, and thus my lack of awareness regarding the need to have your IP pressure checked. In the end, just rebuilding the injectors, having it dynamically timed and the IP adjusted cost $800.00 (that was with me pulling and re-installing the injectors myself). If the IP had needed to be rebuilt, the total would have been more like $1,500.00. However, I'm still worried that the the low IP pressure may have been symptomatic and the cause may be due to a component in the IP that is starting to get weak. I'll probably have to get it checked again next spring and if it has gone down again, fork out for the IP rebuild.

delicat wrote:DelicaMark, if yours still smoke it might be your IP...

No doubt that my IP needs some work! I think everyone's could benefit from a rebuild just to varying degrees. What did make most of the smoke go away was the injectors being cleaned and the pump timing being adjusted. Mine smoked under all medium to high load conditions.

JMK wrote:the only black smoke seems to be when I first accelerate from a stop, to increase speed, or to climb a hill. Once I am climbing there is no more black smoke.

This seems like it could be possible that your EGR is maybe a little sticky and is staying open a little too long. Blanking it or cleaning will be a cheap check. Not to be a downer but, it is more likely that most of the many many internal parts (I have seen a bag of all of the parts that get replaced in a full IP rebuild) of your IP are worn out and this is what is causing your black smoke.

Hopefully the EGR blanking works. Good luck!

-Mark

Thanks Mark,

I was hoping that worn or not, if you're getting the correct pressure and timing, then the end result is the same. In my mind the effect of worn parts would be that the pressure will again start to fall over time, EG, over the winter perhaps, maybe even quicker. I'm already bracing myself for a future IP rebuild though.

Wish I had started on it yesterday when it was +8, right now it's -5. ANyway maybe I'll just block the line for starters and see what happens.