Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

I have ordered my EGR blanking plate after research, thanks for all the patient answers from all. I have been reviewing the info found here http://www.delica.ca/forum/how-to-fit-a ... html#p2313
I noticed that in the second post by FalcoColumbarius that the vacuum hose was blocked by a machine screw. My question is that screw left in place or is it just a temporary measure and should be replaced back on the valve?

Thanks

Some people also jam a ball bearing in there and re-attach the hose. It looks cleaner that way IMO as everything's connected.

Thank you for the answers. I am looking forward to my first engine mod. Hopefully all goes well.

About those bottom fixed bolts, can those be pressed out and replaced? They're nasty!

so they're threaded in from the back?

They are studs, like these:



My nuts stuck to the stud and unscrewed it, I copper greased it and put it back in like a bolt. Bear in mind though that if you do that as well, the EGR plate that I had (1/4" IIRC) was marginally thinner than the EGR base mount, so I had to add a 2mm spring washer to the assembly so that it would do up ok.

Just wondering if I should offer replacement studs with my Blanking kit's is all, but if the studs are removable why not just pull them and use 4 bolts, ie: bolt directly into the Exhaust Manifold. I guess if anything got stuck in the future it'd be easier to remove a nut than a stud (cutting vs drilling). I just don't like the look of those old nasty studs and I'm not a fan of reusing old fasteners.

Using that logic wouldn't you just reuse the same hardware when you rebuild an engine? Same bolts on the main caps, same hardware on the heads. Come on now.

Seriously, those studs look like this when you take the EGR out.



For a couple of pennies I'd replace them and I'd do it for a couple of reasons.

1 - I doubt you'll ever need to get in there again, but if you do it'll probably be easier to take things apart in the future.
2 - if a bolt's that rusty how are you supposed to get an accurate torque on it? Or for that matter, how do you make sure the torque between the 2 sides is even. It's an exhaust flange that could leak (and then leak alot more once it get's a good path going).

It might be overkill but it costs next to nothing. I dunno, maybe I'm just picky.

If you can replace them, then it can be good.

Can be bad as well if the studs shears off inside the manifold. Then you're screwed even more.

Leave it if you can. Clean the threads so the nuts go on nice and easy.

Can't compare this to a head bolt or rebuilding an engine.

I put new wheelnuts on each time I change a tyre.