Re: Ready for Fishing
Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:03 am
I have attached 4 more photos to address some of kiwiL300's questions. The first items would be what not to do:
1.I started with 3/8” Shaft which was to small. It bent on the front roller and the winch twisted it until it broke on the rear roller.
2.Do not use thinwall irrigation pipe for the rollers. Only the rear dropped roller is now aluminum pipe. The front and drive rollers are now rigid aluminum conduit.
3.If you use a flexible coupling between the winch and the roller as I have use the largest you can find for a 1/2” shaft. The coupling I have is rated @ 15 HP @ 3600 rpm. The ratings are very low when used @ low rpm's.
The entire loader and rack is made of aluminum except for shafts, bolts, bearings and bushings. I'm not sure how much it weighs but it is very light. I would say the loader and boat don't weigh 200#.
Construction:
The 4 photos show the major parts of the system.
4318: The frame for the system is 2” aluminum angle. The roller is mounted on 3/16” aluminum plate bolted to the angle for additional strength. The rollers are 2”. I made acrylic inserts to fit in the pipe and glued and screwed them in place. I used 3 – 1/2”pieces glued together. I drilled 5/8” holes in the acrylic and drove 1/2” bushings into the acrylic to provide a smooth long lasting surface for the shaft. The only size that is important is the shaft. The remainder is whatever material you can scrounge.
4319: The drive system uses a 2000# winch with the drum removed and a flexible coupling added. I have since found an angle drive that would work better but the winch was $ 59 and the drive > $ 200. This was the trickiest part of the system. I would use different connection system for the winch drive shaft next time. I used 2” suction hose over the pipe for traction as the drive roller pushes the boat on and pulls it off. Some use a hose similar to a rad hose which would work better. I have added rubber tape to give better traction but is wares off.
4320: I was concerned the rack might scratch or rub the gutter so I used a piece of old tube for protection. This worked well as after a year of use the rubber was not wore through and you can't even tell where the racks were mounted.
4321: I used bearings for the rear drive to make it as smooth as possible. This may be overkill but it provides a nice solid drive roller.
If you have more questions let me know.
Wayne give me a call if your in the area and want some company. I could even take you to the mysterious E lake.
Larry
1.I started with 3/8” Shaft which was to small. It bent on the front roller and the winch twisted it until it broke on the rear roller.
2.Do not use thinwall irrigation pipe for the rollers. Only the rear dropped roller is now aluminum pipe. The front and drive rollers are now rigid aluminum conduit.
3.If you use a flexible coupling between the winch and the roller as I have use the largest you can find for a 1/2” shaft. The coupling I have is rated @ 15 HP @ 3600 rpm. The ratings are very low when used @ low rpm's.
The entire loader and rack is made of aluminum except for shafts, bolts, bearings and bushings. I'm not sure how much it weighs but it is very light. I would say the loader and boat don't weigh 200#.
Construction:
The 4 photos show the major parts of the system.
4318: The frame for the system is 2” aluminum angle. The roller is mounted on 3/16” aluminum plate bolted to the angle for additional strength. The rollers are 2”. I made acrylic inserts to fit in the pipe and glued and screwed them in place. I used 3 – 1/2”pieces glued together. I drilled 5/8” holes in the acrylic and drove 1/2” bushings into the acrylic to provide a smooth long lasting surface for the shaft. The only size that is important is the shaft. The remainder is whatever material you can scrounge.
4319: The drive system uses a 2000# winch with the drum removed and a flexible coupling added. I have since found an angle drive that would work better but the winch was $ 59 and the drive > $ 200. This was the trickiest part of the system. I would use different connection system for the winch drive shaft next time. I used 2” suction hose over the pipe for traction as the drive roller pushes the boat on and pulls it off. Some use a hose similar to a rad hose which would work better. I have added rubber tape to give better traction but is wares off.
4320: I was concerned the rack might scratch or rub the gutter so I used a piece of old tube for protection. This worked well as after a year of use the rubber was not wore through and you can't even tell where the racks were mounted.
4321: I used bearings for the rear drive to make it as smooth as possible. This may be overkill but it provides a nice solid drive roller.
If you have more questions let me know.
Wayne give me a call if your in the area and want some company. I could even take you to the mysterious E lake.
Larry