Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

1) Ask for a copy of Export Certificate to see previous mileage on the car
2) Ask for a copy of auction sheet. If the car has R grading, the car has accident history (Frame damage).

Good Luck!!

message from Japan.

Taka
Big6Imports.com

Both points you are incorrect.

1. Mileage on export certificate can be doctored (altered) and it's been proven.

2. Grade 'R' on an auction sheet can mean anything from a $20 paint scratch to a complete vehicle loss.

I have seen auction grade 3.5 cars with full of rust. Physical inspection is the best way to purchase a car. Lots of variables, which auction it is being sold from as the report varies a lot. USS Tokyo is most reputable but still can be incorrect when every week 45000 cars (only in USS Tokyo) passes through one minute inspection. Mileage accuracy is 50%-50% imho.

Sorry, what I meant is when you buy a Delica or any other JDM in Canada, ask your seller for a copy of Export Certification and an auction sheet.

The mileage can be alter but it often says on the Export Certification or an auction sheet.

About the Auction grade, Yes, auction grade is just a guidance, but it is better to see it than not seeing it.

''''Grade 'R' on an auction sheet can mean anything from a $20 paint scratch to a complete vehicle loss.''' <-- I am pretty sure that this is wrong. Every auction site in Japan work together to gather information; therefore, this car must had an accident history (frame damage) in the past.

'''3.5 cars with full of rust.'''' <-- This can be true. It depends on the inspector and/or maybe he wrote a comment about the rust on the auction sheet.

Again, when you buy a JDM car in Canada, ask for a copy of those two document!!

hi, taka,
not all R grade is big accident with frame damage. some R rating they just change the fender of front bumper or rear bumper.
when you say frame damage i know that japan repair shop will not do take out engine when it was hit badly on the front damage they will just scrap it.japan is very strict on that.they could just write it off.
not like here in canada & us they do rebuild it, pull the frame & put it in the road.its business here in north america.
so japan is different.
the R rating in japan goes with diff category,
small accident or big accident , and lastly you need to put in the hoist & tested drive it & see how the car drive & run it for 125kms and see if the car shakes or not.
you need to test drive it. no just by looking.

Those two documents like I said before are not required and are often inaccurate.

The best is to buy from a trusted and wellknown importer/exporter who can view the vehicle in person.

a car can get a R grade for things such as aftermarket bumper and side skirts installed..

then you will see those indicated with XX on the Auction sheet..

as for the Export Certificate.. i just take that info with a grain of salt.. could be accurate.. could be altered..

Shaken inspection documents are better way to check the actual mileage of the car..

Best way, have a physical inspection done to make sure you know exactly what your getting.

Personally the auction sheet is jsut used as a guide.. i trust what i see.. when i look at the car.

Yeah Physical Inspection is the best way to buy!! but I am just introducing few more things before considering buying a JDM cars.

Have fun driving RHD cars !!

THanks

Taka

dah_hunter wrote:a car can get a R grade for things such as aftermarket bumper and side skirts installed..

then you will see those indicated with XX on the Auction sheet..

as for the Export Certificate.. i just take that info with a grain of salt.. could be accurate.. could be altered..

Shaken inspection documents are better way to check the actual mileage of the car..

Best way, have a physical inspection done to make sure you know exactly what your getting.

Personally the auction sheet is jsut used as a guide.. i trust what i see.. when i look at the car.

Best way, have a physical inspection done to make sure you know exactly what your getting.

Personally the auction sheet is just used as a guide.. i trust what i see.. when i look at the car.

I am siding with Dah_hunter has a good point.
We always use auction sheets as a guide, but do not trust them too much.

Here’s one example we encountered during on site inspection.
This LWB L400 inspection was held by one of my agent at USS Kobe around late Jan/2011.
We had a plan to bid this car, but we gave up bidding due to big corrosion/paint issue on the roof and horrible trim cutting inside ceiling.
Auction paper seems to be good for this car as it has 3.5 grading, but we knew this car was not worth to get through actual inspection.
It was sold at that time and I believe it was already imported into Canada for sale .

Inspection report for kobe XXXX
1. Check if any windshield and windows are cracked or broken, and they must have E-Code or DOT marks ; OK
2. Tire Thread Depth, and See if the tires have DOT marks ; OK, has DOT marks
3. Check for any sign of rusts or corrosions on the exterior, roof and under the body ; 2 places have corrosion ( each place 3 cm ) on the roof, others ok, flame underneath also ok
4. Overall paint and Clear coat condition ; half roof paint peel off, body ok
5. Engine running condition, and check if the engine has any leaks ; OK, gear also ok
6. Make sure all the headrests and floormats are in the car ; OK
7. Interior condition ; top lining dirty, worn handle, see ps
8. Check if there are any warning lights on the dash when the ignition is on (4WD, Air Bag, ABS and such) ; OK
9. Check if all on-board electronics (radio, power window, power door lock, sunroof, crystal lite roof, AC and such) work ; OK, no sunroof
10. Any mechanical and cosmetic defects that I should know about? ; it has seat cover, could not know seat condition.

ps ***Also about the top lining, at the place above second and third seat, in order to fix a room lamp, they cut the top lining ( 50cm*5cm), So, if take out the lamp , there would have a big hole.
11. Overall opinion of the inspector ; So So