Injectors

[djelica]

Looks like I'm in need of some tuning-up. I have waited on doing the injectors as long as I though possible (216K and running fine) and was wondering whatever became of this discussion.

http://www.delica.ca/forum/injector-exc ... +injectors

I'm not interested in bringing up the debate as much as I'm interested in knowing how the Hyundai injectors are doing.

So in my search for what to do next on my L400 (it's an investment right) I'm looking for some opinions on the following:

Is it best (quality and price) to replace just the injector nozzles and recalibrate? How much should this cost?
Is ultrasonic cleaning good enough? Again price?
Is it best (quality, price) to replace the whole injector with new genuine mitsubishi injectors? $$?
Or can you get away with using Hyundais? (maybe lower cost but is it compatible)

I'm looking for what is the best investment for a vehicle I'm tying to keep on the road as long as possible.

Thanks to anyone that replies.

Darren

[Diver]

Standard procedure over here is to purchase new nozzles and have them fitted to your existing injector bodies and calibrated.
Price-wise, I think I paid about £150 (not including removing and re-fitting them to the head)
Cleaning will help if they are dirty, but not if they are worn.
Brand new Mitsubishi injectors would be great, but unnecessarily expensive.
I wouldn't touch Hyundai injectors with a bargepole.

[Manitoba deli]

Diver is right, that if the injectors are worn, a cleaning won't help. It also won't help if the injectors are weak. Getting new tips, and having the cracking pressure reset is what needs to be done, but it is usually only a diesel shop that has an injector pressure tester. Replacing the tips only will not help if your problem is due to the injector springs being weak. The diesel shop will correct this by adding shims, and testing it until they get the proper pressure. I have personally found that due to the labor rates at diesel shops, this costs the same, or more than replacing the injectors. I have been installing the hyundia injectors since RSI made them available, and have not had any complaints with them. The very first set I took to a diesel shop, and had the pressures checked(I was skeptical of the quality due to the price) They were all good. I haven't checked anymore of them, it satisfied my concerns, and it costs a bit over $100 for me to get 4 injectors tested. I also installed a set of injectors for a customer, that he purchased from the UK for dirt cheap. I believe they are chinese. I did not have cracking pressure tested on these, but they looked fine, fit perfectly, and solved the problem the customer was having. I have no other experience with these. I have wanted to buy a set of these for myself, and have them tested, and then try them in my own van just to see how they are, but it is one of the many things I have not got around to doing yet. If you go to any diesel shop, they should be able to give you a quote on rebuilding yours. The only info they need is that you have a (whatever year) Mitsubishi 4M40 engine, 2.8L turbo charged and intercooled. It should not make any difference to them what it is in. Make sure they also include new gaskets (sealing washers) in the quote. This should help give you some direction in which route you want to go.
Jason

[RickJ]

As I posted before in this link

http://www.delica.ca/forum/1994-1996-l4 ... 14437.html

I purchased 4 nozzles from Fred Holmes fuel injection in Richmond. The cost was under 2 hundred for 4 nozzles taxes and shipping included. The only catch is you must be able to fit and pop test them yourself. You may or may not need to adjust the breaking pressure with shims which can be purchased through them as well.

[djelica]

OK thanks for all your help. I like to have options and I'm not against experimenting so I will have to think this one out.

Any opinions on adjusting the valves? How important is it and when should it be done? What should this cost (I guess it would depend on how off they were, but what kind of labour time would it take worse case).

Thanks again for all the help, Cheers,
Darren

[Manitoba deli]

There is no valve adjustment on the 4M40, the cam is directly overhead on a hydraulic type lifter. Your saving money already.
Jason

[djelica]

Hey Jason,

Thanks again for all the info you provide. It really is helpful.

Can you elaborate on "valve adjustment" for the 4M40? Does the overhead cam and hydraulic lifter mean that you don't "need" to adjust the valves or that there is no easy way to do it (I've seen complicated pictures of shims and such).

Anyway, I'm going to invest a few dollars in hopes of a long deli life and since I am looking to do the injectors I was also looking into overall maintenance for my L400 now with 217K. It runs very well once it is warmed up and when it's plugged in and/or with 4 working glowplugs it generally starts pretty easy.

What kind of service would you suggest? Thanks again, very much.

Darren

[403delica]

A hydraulic lifter means the any play that occurs from wear is taken up by oil flowing in to the lifter and expanding ( or contracting) in relation to wear on the cam and associated parts. Its essentially two pistons, that fit inside each other that can move in and out and translate force from the cam to the valves. AKA sweet cus you dont need to add shims and mess around!

[djelica]

Thanks 403delica for your input.

I used to own many old VW vans and spent a lot of time in the dirt adjusting the lifters. The holy grail of VW for me was to get into the hydraulic system, but I got over my VW addition before that ever happened.

So, because they are hydraulic you don't adjust, or can't adjust without great difficulty? Is there ever a need to adjust the valves and how do you know when this needs to be done?

So what are the big tune-up items to do when your L400 is over 200k? I know I will have the injectors done and IP timing adjusted, but what does CVI do when part of their Deli tune is "valve adjustment"?

Just want to do what needs to be done for long life without paying for things that are not going pay back.

Cheers again to anyone that provides input.

Darren

[Diver]

Lots of people seem to think the 4M40 has hydraulic lifters. They don't however.
The valve clearances on the 4M40 are adjusted by shims. The adjustment is a bit of a pain to do, but you can start by checking them easily enough to see if they are out.
Remove the cam cover and turn the engine using the crank bolt CLOCKWISE ONLY until the lobe of the cam of the valve you wish to check is pointing upwards. Slide a feeler gauge under the cam (between cam and lifter). The clearance you are looking for is 0.2mm for inlet and 0.3mm for exhaust (cold).

[Firesong]

Umm confused. I'm going to follow Jason (Manitobadeli)'s advice since he's a mechanic who works on these motors.

[djelica]

This is why I am seeking input. Nothing is ever that simple it seems.

Is there any indication, other than actually measuring, that you might need to adjust the valves? Noises, smells bad or ?

Anyone know what the recommended maintenance (from Mitsubishi) is one the L400? I should do a search myself and if I find something I will post it.

Cheers again,

Daren

[jessef]

shims up top #9

[Manitoba deli]

I could be mistaken on this, my info on this was gathered from a well respected Delica mechanic from across the pond, who I conversed with quite often before I brought my first L400 over in the summer of '09. I was told the lifter was a hydraulic type, and the shim was a sacrificial surface designed to wear before the cam or lifter. I will have to pull a lifter out of one of my core engines and see if it has any oil holes, making it a hydraulic type. The highest mileage ones I see out here, are mine with just over 220km, and my wife's white one we sold in march of '12, which I think also had around 220km when we let it go, but I believe it is still starting and running well, aside from a block heater cord issue last winter. If I'm wrong I apologize, I will, report back once I physically remove one of the here and check.

Jason

[Manitoba deli]

Didn't go out and pull a lifter yet this morning, but I did take a look through my service manual, and I am indeed wrong. There are 37 different thickness' of shims in .025mm increments, ranging from 2.250mm-3.150mm. A good reminder for me not to always assume that I have been given the correct info, and to check it out for myself. I emailed my friend in England just to let him know the info he had given me was incorrect, but he may have already found it out. Sorry for steering you wrong. I'm not going to edit my previous post, as I do not try and hide my mistakes, I admit to them, and try and correct them as soon as possible. Thanks for correcting me on this Diver. So there is indeed a procedure for setting the valves on the 4M40, which involves measuring the tolerances, changing the thickness of the shims if needed, remeasuring, and repeat if necessary until the proper values are achieved. While I do hate being wrong, I'm sure glad I'm not perfect. The last perfect man was crucified. I will however, continue my quest for perfection, knowing I will never achieve it.
Jason