Delica Canada | Mitsubishi Van Club

Just finished the brake upgrade... Wow what a difference.

This is the best mod by far for the delica.. forget all the others until you do this.

Got the rotors and pads from NAPA in victoria and the Calipers from LORDCO in Victoria.
The finished cost was $350-400 so more than it costs in the states but I wanted the stuff now and did not want to wait.

Stopping is dramatically shorter and pedal fade is much better. It feels much more positive, but initial brake play is increased.
(you need to push a bit further to engage the brakes) Im going to try to adjust the free play a bit to offset this.

But thanks to all the posters who made this job so easy...
Now i would love to do a bit to the rear brakes to compliment the fronts., any ideas out there?

Oceaneer

Oceaneer

RichD, Fexilboi, and myself have done the upgrade over the last 3 weekends. All with great success.

We did notice that no matter how much you bled the system, the pedal felt a little different than before the upgrade. Almost spongy, but a BIG increase in stopping power.

We swapped out Felix's rubber hoses for Steel braided one both front and back and Bingo,Bango,Bongo......brake pedal is now right up.

Felix's hose swap was a little tricky as he has 2 inch spacers at the upper ball joint. We used Russell brand pre-made hoses from Lordco with the added fittings.

2x 9 inch for the front ( although 9 is a tad long on the upper section for him, it works. Ive had 7 inch made up and will report back as to the fit, but I'm working with a 1 inch spacer) The lower was just a lil short so we had to mod up new brackets at the caliper.

We went 27 inch in the rear with no problems.

One other thing we did was make up new 3/16 lines from the caliper to the first braided hose. The stock one was just a little too small and bending an already formed brake line usually ends up in a crimp, or at least a weak spot. We made up news ones.

9 inch line is about $20, and the fittings are $5 apiece. My 7 inch I had made up are worthy of a formula 1 car, and a $40 price tag to go with it. I probably could have sourced out a cheaper place, but when it comes to brakelines, I went with a company I know.


Happy Braking !!!

I was going to change my pads the other day, and I noticed that all the bolts holding the calipers were slightly rounded. The 14mm wrench I had slipped, so I stopped trying as to not round it more. Is it an imperial size for the brakes or something? Or has the previous owner fubared my bolts?

My rears desperately need changing. Anyone know of any tricks to help me out? Or wanna help me do it? Beer can be a helluva good incentive!

Spray rust penetrating fluid on them at the head/thread area a few times over a day period.

Drive it to a shop and have them crank the bolts out.

Usually they are in there very tight/need to be gunned off.

Monster vice grips may work depending on how rounded the heads are.

If it was like that already, then the last person that tightened them probably did it with an open ended wrench.


Always use closed end of a wrench or hex socket. Open end of the wrench or multipoint socket can round off the edges easily.

I've sprayed them with penetrating fluid a couple times to make it easier, but obviously not enough!
Thanks for the tip, I'll pick up a better quality socket and try again. I've havent changed pads on anything other than a Golf and a Civic, so Im just confirming that it should be those two (or three) bolts per caliper that come off, and then I can pop the pads out, swap, and then re-install?

Try to get your hands on some tools like these: http://www.metrinch.tv/
They will do the trick.
Cheers, JR

Besides the superwhinch, is there anything else worth doing while everything is exposed?

check your CV boots. If they are not pliable or have cracks in them when you squeeze on it, then replace them. Axle shaft has to come out.

after you've removed all the old grease, clean it with brakeclean or similar and then feel the bearings for flat/rough spots. If there are, then replace the bearings.

Both bearings inner/outer are identical. They are also sold locally and the same as a Gen 1 Montero.

I will be attempting this soon. My rotors have been gauged and the pads are rubbing.

Has anyone tried other brands than Raybestos? I'm comparing prices with Rockauto, but surprisingly, it looks like summitracing is less expensive (then again, there are so many options I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right thing). Did anyone just go to Lordco to buy theirs? If so, what did you end up paying?

Well, I found the search function on Rockauto!
Their prices seem to be the best, as can be seen in the picture. Yes, you have to pay shipping, but it still costs less than Summitracing.

Everything will arrive in 2-6 days to TSB shipping in Point Roberts where I will pay a small fee to pick them up.

The total came to $244.96
subtract core charges: $10.28 x 2
subtract rebates: $15 (brake pads) $5 x 2 (rotors)

Total: $199.40 + return shipping, postage and TSB

I'll attempt to do this myself and hopefully don't run into the same trouble I had last time I tried to remove my calipers.

The job is done. It turns out that the original brake line fittings don't work with the new calipers. I had to get a brake expert to build me some new fittings and he modified the brackets to work. Total cost was $150, so factor that into your upgrade price, even if you do it yourself. I also licked out in only being a couple blocks from the mechanics, so I could drive there without brakes.

almac wrote:(thread resurrection )

I wish the images for this mod was still available. my brakes are overdue.
I'm just starting to gather parts for this mod.

since the back plate shield needs to be cut to fit, I was curious to know if the plate off the Montero or L400 would fit instead of cutting the old one?

I'm not sure about that, but cutting was the easiest part of the process - 10 seconds with some tin snips.

Ok..so I'm going to do this mod since I'm more than due for new brakes and I have to do my CV joints anyway. I've just spent what feels like years on the NAPA webpage (anyone else here hate their site? Non-user friendly..) and these are the NAPA parts that I came up with using a 1991 Montero for the vehicle search.

Can anyone who has done this mod with NAPA parts confirm that these are the right one's? I'm in Saskatoon right now but I didn't bring van with me, so I'm unable to compare at the store.

Sorry I couldn't just insert a link to the page directly.. for whatever reason that wouldn't work.


Brake caliper
Line code CPR
Part number SE2228A
Description Brake Caliper w/ Hardware - Left Front (Eclipse Semi-Loaded) - Remfd
Attribute Additional Contents:Pads Not Included,New Components:New Dust Boots, OE-Style Seals, O-Rings, & Bleeder Valves
Comment All Supplied w/ Metal Pistons as Original Equipment Supplied w/ Mounting Bracket

Brake rotor
Line code NDR
Part number 4886687
Description Brake Rotor Only - Front - Premium
Attribute # of Bolt Holes:6,Bolt Circle Diameter:108 mm / 4.25",Diameter:276 mm / 10.87",Thickness When New:24 mm / .945",Discard Thickness:22.4 mm / .882",Center Hole Diameter:87 mm / 3.43",Height:45.2 mm / 1.78",Vented / Solid:Vented

Brake pads
Line code FNU
Part number UP7412X
Description Brake Pads - Front, Ultra Premium - OE Ceramic
Attribute Hardware Kit Included:Yes,Bonded or Riveted:Integral Molded,Additional Contents:1 Set Of 4 Pads
Comment Contains Hardware

The original hoses are not quite long enough and the hose connections are different. The hoses and connectors that dinoevo used are available @ a good price from Canada Auto supply or through any Lordco @ a premium. You can get hoses made as Golf Cart but the cost is the same or more.

Please note: this is a modification that has not been long-term tested. It's not a bolt-in parts replacement, and involves removing material from the new master cylinder (drilling holes in the flange) so it will work with the L300's existing brake booster. Weakening the master cylinder flange may have consequences, and I'll let you know if anything exciting happens. Unless I'm dead. Proceed at your own risk!

I've had the uprated calipers for a while now, and while the extra braking is nice (the standard callipers felt alarmingly underpowered with 31" tyres) I've not been happy with the pedal feel. The callipers' twin pistons have more surface area than the stock pistons, which means the pedal has more leverage- great for generating lots of force on the brake pads, but difficult to modulate braking power in an emergency stop.

The solution is to increase the master cylinder bore size (stock is 7/8") in proportion to the new calipers' size. And so we come to:

Mitsubishi Rosa/Canter 1" brake master cylinder.
This one was an aftermarket unit, so I don't know the part number. As best I can tell, the genuine part number is MB295330. That's a 1" (25.4mm) bore master cylinder that looks the same as this one. The genuine part is made of cast iron though, I'm not confident how it would stand up to having extra holes drilled in the flange. I've also seen some aftermarket ones where the flange is thinner in the area I had to drill- which is a *really* bad idea.
It's basically the same as the 1" cylinder fitted to some L400s, but with the remote reservoir fittings. (L400s have the reservoir mounted directly onto the master cylinder). It's a 4-bolt fitting, but it's easy enough to drill two new holes. It's MUCH longer than the stock cylinder, but still fits. Just. The brake lines will need to be re-shaped to match the new cylinder's orientation and to clear everything. When you remove the old master cylinder you'll see the brake booster has an adjustable length pushrod. You want to adjust the pushrod until it has 0.5mm clearance from the master cylinder's piston when everything is at rest. You'll need to measure the depth of the master cylinder's pushrod hole (using the mounting face as a reference point) and the length of the pushrod (again, using the mounting surface as a reference point). I had to trim about 2mm from one of the steering column mounting brackets. Result? A van with 31" tyres that stops just as well as a stock van, has the same pedal feel and pedal effort as a stock setup, and has larger, more fade-resistant callipers.