Torn CV boot, replace boot or whole axle?

[Mr. Flibble]

I have a torn CV boot on my front passenger side axle and I am wondering if it is worth replacing the boot, or just buying a whole new axle as the price of axles has come down so much.

Having said that, if I do choose a new axle; is the 1995 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5 litre drive axle comparable with the L400?

[FalcoColumbarius]

Is the axle damaged? Just replace the CV boot. Somehow I don't see the axle being as cheap as the CV boot. Besides ~ you still have to get the CV boot to cover the new constant velocity joint, should you go that route.

Falco.

[Mr. Flibble]

I can buy the complete axle with cv boots new for between $40 (eBay) and $90 online parts stores.

The labor to replace the boot is about $200.....

However, I don't know if the 95 Montero axle is compatible.

[FalcoColumbarius]

How much is the labour to replace the CV joint?

Falco.

[lopar]

For $200 that better be for the inner boot........ in which case labour for the axle should be identical if not cheaper; would not have to clean up the old one. Be cautious of the upper ball joint, the middle of the three mounting bolts goes right through the knuckle. It will be nicely siezed in there and often leave behind a portion of the bolt. Might not be a bad time to replace ball joints if they are a bit loose anyway. Search youtube, there is a cv boot replacement for L400.

[Mr. Flibble]

http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopi ... 1375261f97

So it looks like the Montero axle is compatable with the L400, and that means it should be cheaper to replace the whole axle than have the boot replaced.

(Because replacing the boot involves removing the axle, cleaning the joint and regreasing it and installing the new boot. Buying a new axle is $40-$90. So, the axle would need to be removed in either case, and put back in, so why not go for a new one if the labour to change the boot is more than the axle?)

[lopar]

So, the axle would need to be removed in either case, and put back in, so why not go for a new one if the labour to change the boot is more than the axle?

Personally I would charge another 20 min or so to re-use old one........ have to take apart and clean (one clip and easy, but still a good excuse to charge more )

If the axle is that cheap and comes with boots, I would replace the axle. Really no good reason if there has been no noise/grinding.

Does new one come with boots? (should I would think)

[Mr. Flibble]

When you buy a new Montero axle, it is complete, boots and all. Ready to be installed!

So, as per the video, I will leave it until it makes noise, then replace the whole axle.

It is the inner boot that is torn.

[rezdiver]

if its not torn all the way around just clean and sew it back together, then give it a coating of shoe goo glue or something similar that is flexible. takes 5 minutes.

[Mr. Flibble]

if its not torn all the way around just clean and sew it back together, then give it a coating of shoe goo glue or something similar that is flexible. takes 5 minutes.

Oh, that is brilliant! I will give that a shot!

[lopar]

if its not torn all the way around just clean and sew it back together, then give it a coating of shoe goo glue or something similar that is flexible. takes 5 minutes.

Way cool idea for temp fix...... do not think I would put much longevity expectations on it. Would be curious to see how long it lasts; will be filing that one away.

[rezdiver]

depends on how well you clean it and how well you sew it. i have had boots last a long time this way. also after stitching i have used tire patch material with contact cement and also blueskin construction material. although depending on where the boot is torn the blueskin is a little stiff to fold around the cv boot ripples. blueskin also works great for patching up a tire, make sure you use contact cement with it.

[jessef]

you guys realize that 90% of the labour is removal and reinstallation of the axle. To push the hub out of the way you need to either disconnect the balljoints from the control arms or disconnect the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle. On the driver's side, remove the 4 nut/bolts on the axle/differential flange. Passenger side just pops out from the diff (held in by retaining C clip). Careful of the gear oil. Both sides on the hub side of things are the same. It's just time consuming. There's 'just' not enough leeway to push the hub out of the way with the balljoints/control arms/steering linkage connected to pull the axle out of the hub and then out of the diff.

Changing out the boots themselves on the bench once the axle is out only takes 15-20 mins.

if you buy a new axle and take it into a shop to re&re you'll be paying close to the amount you quoted above regardless of new axle or boot replacement.

unless your axle is bent or somehow toast, I would just replace the boots. aftermarket CV axles - who knows the quality compared to the original. could be better, same or worse. boots are boots. just consumables.

[Big-Bird]

Does anyone actually have usable (for canada) Part Numbers for the CV boots needed for the L400?

I had one number passed to me that didn't fit. Napa CVB764 Inner Boot.

[Mr. Flibble]

Does anyone actually have usable (for canada) Part Numbers for the CV boots needed for the L400?

I had one number passed to me that didn't fit. Napa CVB764 Inner Boot.

I don't have the part number - but the matching part for a 1995 Mitsubishi Montero 3.5 Liter should be the same.